Khusro Bagh, Allahabad (Prayagraj)

Tomb of the heir to the Mughal throne and other royals

Akbar, the greatest of the great Mughals, was never pleased with his eldest son Salim (later Jahningir). Akbar never liked the carefree lifestyle and rebellious attitude of Salim and never wanted him as his successor.

Panoramic view of Khusro Bagh Complex, Allahabad (Prayagraj)

In fact, Akbar wanted Khusrau Mirza, the eldest son of Salim to succeed him, but it was not to be. Salim had his own plans and after Akbar’s death in 1605 Salim ascended the throne and came to be known as Jahangir.

Map of Khusro Bagh Complex, Allahabad (Prayagraj)

Khusrau Mirza was born in 1587 and her mother was Shah Begum, who was a Rajput princess and was born as Manbhawati Bai. She also happens to be the sister of Raja Man Singh, the trusted general of Akbar.

The three tombs of Khusro Bagh Complex, Allahabad (Prayagraj)

Unable to tolerate the conflict between her husband and son she committed suicide in 1605 by taking an overdose of opium. Jahangir built a magnificent tomb in her honour in Allahabad. The tomb was designed by Aqa Reza, the principal artist at Allahabad court. The calligraphy of the tomb was executed by Mir Abdullah Mushkin Qalam, Jahangir’s favourite calligrapher.

Shah Begum’s Tomb, Khusro Bagh Complex, Allahabad (Prayagraj)

The tomb stands in the centre of a grand garden, now known as Khusro Bagh. It is located just 6 km north-west of the Akbar’s Fort, which towers above the tribeni sangam of Allahabad.

Nisar Begum’s Tomb, Khusro Bagh Complex, Allahabad (Prayagraj)

On the other hand Khusro was not satisfied with his father ascending the throne and rebelled against him, but the rebellion was suppressed and Khusrau was taken prisoner and blinded (although partially). Although partially blind Khusrau was still a threat and finally in 1622 Khuram (later Saha Jahan) had him executed

Nisar Begum’s Tomb, Khusro Bagh Complex

He was laid to rest in a magnificent tomb next to the tomb of his mother. Khusrau’s tomb was probably commissioned by his sister Sultan-un-Nissa (popularly known as Nisar Beghum).

Sandwiched between the Shah Begam’s tomb and the Khusrau’s tomb is the tomb of Nisar Beghum. It is the most elaborate tomb of the complex.

It was constructed by Nisar Beghum herself in 1624 – 25. She died in 1646 but was not laid to rest in the tomb she constructed. The fourth tomb of the complex lies at the western end of Khusro Bagh and is locally known as the Bibi Tamolon’s tomb. Sadly nothing much is known about its occupant and history.

Khusrau Mirza’s Tomb, Khusro Bagh Complex, Allahabad (Prayagraj)

Today the Khusro Bagh is a large open green space located just south of the Paryagraj Junction Railway station (Google map location). It is a Mughal-styled char-bagh garden complete with fountains and water channels (now dried up).

Khusrau Mirza’s Tomb, Khusro Bagh Complex

Along with the four tombs the complex doubles up as an orchard with its share of mango and guava trees.

It is protected under the Archaeology Survey of India (ASI) and also doubles up as green open space in the very heart of the city.

It serves as an open space for the locals, who are engaged in activities like morning and evening walks.

At the centre of the garden lies the Shah Begum’s Tomb. Standing on an octagonal plinth the two-storied structure is topped with a square chhatri. The chhatri is supported by 12 pillars. The tomb has minimum ornamentation apart from a few recessed arches and jail windows.

Bibi Tamolon’s Tomb, Khusro Bagh Complex

To the east of the Shah Begum’s Tomb lies the ornate tomb of Nisar Begum. Architecturally the most elaborate of the tomb’s of Khusro Bagh.

The square tomb stands on a elevated square plinth and is crowned with a massive dome, flanked with four chhatris on the four corners.

It has elaborate ornamentation work with decorative battlements, intricate jail windows and elaborate recessed arches.

Last in the line is the tomb of Khusrau Mirza, this too is a square structure standing on a square plinth and is crowned with a massive dome.

Ornamentation and jali windows from the tombs of Khusro Bagh

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The dome is flanked by four chhatris and slender minarets mark the four corners of the structure. This too also has a share of battlements, jail windows and recessed arches giving it an elegant look.

Water channels of Khusro Bagh

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The space between the three tombs is occupied by two beautiful ornate fountains. The wall on the northern side of the tomb consists of water slides, which were once used to supply water to the channels of the Khusro Bagh. Sadly the channels and fountains have long dried up.

South Gate, Khusro Bagh Complex

The fourth and final structure of Khurso Bagh lies further west of Shah Begum’s Tomb and all four structures lie in a perfect east-west alignment.

Bibi Tamolon’s Tomb is an octagonal two tired structure topped with a dome flanked with eight slender minarates. It has minimal ornamentations apart from decorative brackets.

Today Khurso Bagh is generally approached from the north gate, which is a new structure. The grand gateway of the royal garden lies on the south.

No wonder this gate faces the Yamuna River and was accessed by royals coming down the river from Delhi and Agra. Sadly the grand gateway is heavily encroached.

Nisar Beghum’s Tomb (left) and Khusrau Mirza’s Tomb (right), Khusro Bagh Complex, Allahabad (Prayagraj)

Thousand of tourists and pilgrims visit Allahabad (now Prayagraj). Next time if you are in Allahabad due spare a couple of hours from your tribeni sangam visit to witness one of the most unique and beautiful Mughal tombs of the country.

Necessary Information:

• Time: 6am – 7 pm
• Entry fee: Free
• Photography: Allowed
• Entry inside the toms is not allowed