Jim Thompson House, Bangkok – Intriguing tale of a silk tycoon

Jim Thompson House, Bangkok

Intriguing tale of a silk tycoon

Also see: FAM Trip of Thailand 2022

A winding lane guides visitors towards the Saen Saep canal (Also see: Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat) in Bangkok’s Siam locality. At the end of the lane, you can see a spacious plot of land adorned with numerous traditional Thai-style wooden houses.

Jim Thompson House, Bangkok

The compound features water bodies and gardens in traditional Thai style, presenting a striking contrast with the concrete jungle that surrounds it. This is none other than the museum housing the private collection of James Harrison Wilson Thompson, the American architect and silk tycoon widely known as Jim Thompson.

Jim Thompson
(Wikimedia Commons)

World War II veteran: Thompson’s connection with Thailand originated during World War II, when he was stationed in Bangkok as part of the American army. It was during this time that he discovered the art of Thai silk making in the Ban Khura region of Bangkok.

Thailand’s First global brand: Although he returned home after the war, he soon came back to collaborate with the silk weavers of Ban Khura, situated on the northern bank of the Saen Saep canal. In 1948, Thompson established a silk manufacturing company and named it ‘Thai Silk Company Limited’. In a remarkably brief period, the company gained prominence in the fashion world, earning recognition from Vogue to Hollywood to Broadway. Jim Thompson’s company became Thailand’s first global fashion brand.

Sustainability: Thompson’s deep admiration for traditional art forged a close bond with the weaving community. He deliberately maintained his company on a cottage-based model, contributing to the welfare of poor weavers. Predominantly comprising women, working from the comfort of their homes, the workforce not only retained their roles in the household but also assumed the role of breadwinners. Thompson worked tirelessly to sustain the traditional livelihood and culture of the weavers and silk farmers.

Jim Thompson House Museum, Bangkok

Silk tycoon and an art collector: As Thompson’s business prospered, he sought an expansive parcel of land for his residence. A decade after establishing his silk company, Thompson acquired a substantial plot on the southern side of the Saen Saep canal, directly across from the weavers’ village. After acquiring the land, Thompson initiated the purchase of old traditional wooden houses from various parts of Thailand, including Ayutthaya, the former capital of Thailand. These houses were meticulously dismantled, transported down the Chao Phraya River, and reassembled on the new plot. The resulting complex transformed into a quaint enclave of traditional Thailand. Thompson enhanced the ambiance by importing statues, artifacts, and wall paintings from Thailand and beyond to adorn his new abode. Thus, evolving from a war veteran turned silk tycoon, Thompson solidified his position as an art collector, aficionado of traditional houses and a prominent Western socialite in post-World War II Bangkok.

Cafe at Jim Thompson House Museum, Bangkok

Mysterious disappearance: Sadly, his good days were short-lived. He mysteriously vanished while hiking in the Cameroon Highlands of Malaysia on March 26, 1967, seemingly evaporating without a trace and never returning. The circumstances surrounding his disappearance continue to baffle everyone to this day. After his vanishing act, the oversight of his grand residence and silk enterprise fell under the purview of the James H.W. Thompson Foundation, enjoying royal patronage from Thai princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. Transforming his home into a museum, it was opened to the public.

Guided tour of Jim Thompson Silk House

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Jim Thompson House (Google map location): Today, the Jim Thompson House Museum encompasses a café and a retail outlet. The museum extends a guided tour into Jim Thompson’s residence, narrating the story of this remarkable man and his flamboyant lifestyle.

Artifacts of Jim Thompson Silk House

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The tour guides visitors through an array of scattered wooden houses connected by pathways that wind through wooded landscapes adorned with water features. These houses once functioned as bedrooms, dining areas, drawing rooms, and guest quarters. Each section is adorned with artefacts collected from across Southeast Asia — ranging from Buddha statues, made of stone and wood, to other wood carvings and scroll paintings. The tour ends at a habitat centre, where captivating photos and narratives unfold the remarkable story of Jim Thompson. Within this space, visitors encounter displays of equipment employed in the silk manufacturing process, accompanied by detailed descriptions chronicling the evolution of Thai silk. 

Sales outlet of Jim Thompson Silk House

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Silk Shopping: Bringing the journey full circle, the tour concludes with a visit to the sales outlet, showcasing a diverse array of silk items. Sadly, people with very deep pockets can afford to bring something back home from there. Next time in Bangkok, Thailand, do consider a visit to Jim Thompson’s House — a true gem among Bangkok’s lesser-known tourist spots.

Porcelain artifacts at Jim Thompson House Museum, Bangkok

Necessary Information:

• Getting there: Situated around 300 metres from the National Stadium (BTS sky rail Silom line) station. Also about 300 m from the Hua Chang (Siam Square) pier of Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat
• Timing: 10am to 6pm, with the last guided tour commencing at 5 pm
• Entry fee: For adults, the fee is 200 Baht, while visitors under 22 years are charged 100 Baht (ID required). Children under 10 years of age enjoy free entry when accompanied by an adult. The tour is available in English, French, Japanese, Chinese and Thai.
• Photography: Limited in certain areas, but mobile photography is generally permitted
• Dress code: While there is no specific dress code like we see in Thai temples, visitors are required to remove their shoes upon entering the house.

Note:

• This blog post is part of a partially sponsored FAM (Familiarization) Tour organized by Tourism Authority Of Thailand (TAT), New Delhi and Holiday Inn Express, Bangkok, Siam

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Thailand 2022 FAM

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