Tea Tasting at Margaret’s Deck
Goodricke’s Margaret Hope Tea Estate, Kurseong
See also: Maragaret’s Deck FAM
If you are cold, tea will warm you; if you are too heated, it will cool you; if you are depressed, it will cheer you; if you are exxcited, it will calm you.
William Gladstone, former Prime Minister of United Kingdom
But I always wanted to have a tea tasting experience at the heart of chai country. The opportunity again came from Goodricke, with MSL Group as the public relation partner.
Marble Rocks and Dhuandhar Falls
Bhedaghat, Jabalpur, Madhya Pradesh (MP)
“The eye never wearies of about the ……… effect produced by the broken and reflected sunlight, now glancing from a pinnacle of snow-white marble reared against the deep blue of the sky as from a point of silver, touching here and there and with bright lights the prominences of the middle height; and again loosing itself in the soft bluish greys of their recesses.”
Captain J. Forsyth, Highlands of Central India
The Narmada River, often considered as the “life line of Madhya Pradesh,” flows between the Satpura and Vindhya Range.
A Year of Blogging
My Blog’s First Birthday
Also see: My Blog’s Birthdays
I still remember the wet morning of 17th June 2011 my friend, colleague and fellow photo enthusiast Akash Mondal introduced me to the world of Blogging. Although I have been writing travelogues for more than a decade and maintained a personal website, I have never been much of a computer friendly person. Strangely I soon got the hang of Blogging and started posting articles regularly.
Soon words of inspiration and likes from friend followed, inspiring me to work hard on my blog. I set up an action plan of “Mid Week Update” updating an article every Wednesday. In a short span of time likes and comments extended beyond my friend circle with eminent scholars and best selling authors commenting on my blog. Comments and likes also followed from fellow bloggers, travel & photographic enthusiasts.
I have always been know as a “Travel Writer & Photographer” due to my numerous travelogues published in the leading dailies of the country. My website tag also reads “Freelance Travel Writer & Photographer” and so does my Blog title, but blogging has given me the advantage to think beyond travel writing. Although for the first year my blog has been restricted to travelogues mainly but I am seriously considering other areas of non fiction writing.
Stone has always been in short supply in the vast flood plains of Bengal. Hence the architects had to restore to other substitute. As clay was easily available the burnt clay bricks soon became a good substitute of stone. This gave rise to a new form of temple architecture and lead to the construction of elaborately decorated terracotta temples. The terracotta art reached its pinnacle under the patronage of the Malla Kings of Bishnupur during the seventeenth century. The temples are still there turning Bishnupur into one of the most favored tourist spot in West Bengal.
Located just 15 km east of Bishnupur the non – descriptive village of Joypur houses some of the finest specimen of terracotta art. It was during the 18 – 19th century few families of the village took advantage of the cloth trade with the British and made a fortune. They acquired land and became zamindars and built fantastic temples. De and Dutta family were two such families and they still have a temple standing in the courtyard of their decapitated family mansion.
Both the temples are built in naba ratna (nine pinnacles) style and are approached by a triple arched entrance from the Northern and Eastern side. Sadly the temples are in bad shape and are in desperate need of professional restoration.
The Damodar Temple of Dutta family has elaborate terracotta on the Eastern arch panel. The central arch panels have scenes from Krishnalila while those on the left and right contain battle scenes from Mahabharata and Ramayana. The uniqueness of the Joypur terracotta is its deep relief giving an almost three dimensional effect to most of the figure. The set of musicians on the cornice are in full three dimension. The temple also contains panels of das avatar, Vishnu in anantasaya and Bishma in sarasaya (bed of arrows).
Located a short distance away is the Vishnu Temple belonging to the De family and follows the same pattern of Naba Ratna architecture. The arch panel shows a series of boats some with armed guards and other with noble men and ladies, including a scene where a noble man smokes a hookah carried by an attendant in different boat.
Another arch panel shows two fantastic jumping lions embedded on a floral motif complete with birds and flowers. Just above the lions is a fantastic panel showing Ram and Sita enthroned attended my monkeys and musicians. A little away from the De family temple is a spectacular octagonal Rash Manch crowned with nine onion shaped pinnacles.
So next time when you are in Bishnupur to enjoy do take a couple of hours break to visit the spectacular temples of Joypur, but don’t be late because centuries of neglect can soon turn the temples to dust.
- Joypur from www.aishee.org
- Next Weekend you can be at … Jaypur by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph 13 July 2011
- Travel article on Joypur (Link not yet ready)
List of my Blog entry on West Bengal
~ Temples and Mansions ~
Bawali, a nondescript village just off the Diamond Harbour Road (DH rd) from Amtala, is home to towering temples and palatial mansions.
History books tell us that the Mondals of Bawali were originally Roys. Shovaram, the grandson of Basudev Roy (who lived between the end of 16th century and the early 17th century), was awarded the title Mondal. Shovaram’s grandson Rajaram was the senapati of the Raja of Hijli. Moved by his bravery, the raja offered him the ownership of 50 villages, which included Bowali and Budge Budge.
The Bengal temple architecture is classified under two broad heads namely ~ Chala (sloped roof) and Ratna (Pinnacle) style. Rarely the two styles combine in a single temple forming a mixed form of architecture. The Durga Temple of Bali – Dewanganj is probably the best example of such mixed temple architecture in the whole of West Bengal.
The lower part of Durga Temple follows the Chala style, in the form of Jora – Bangla style, consisting of two adjoining thatched roof structures. In the middle of the two thatched roof structures stand a Naba – Ratna (nine pinnacled) structure, thus combining the two forms of Bengal temple architecture.
Bali – Dewanganj is a non – descriptive village in the Arambagh sub – division of the Hooghly district. It is well connected by road from both Arambagh and Tarakeshwar. For the most comfortable journey it is best to take the morning Tarakeshwar Local followed by a bus to Bali – Dewangunj. Get down at Haldar Para, from where a winding dirt roads leads to Rout Para, housing the Durga Temple along with a host of other temples.
Rout Para houses five temples out of which three are in crumbling stage. Large portions of these temples have already collapsed and all that remains are on the verge of collapsing. Mangal Chandi Temple which lies on the left hand side of the road is said to contain thirteen pinnacles but none of them have survived the test of time. Only one of the stories of this three storied structure stands to this day. Nothing much is known about the structural details of the other two ruined temples, but somehow a pinnacle of each of the two temples stands to this day. The fourth temple in the complex is a small Shiv temple, probably constructed at a much later date and cannot be considered as a historical structure.
But the star attraction of the temple complex is the Durga Mandir, which has remained remarkably intact for over 200 years. Maintained by the West Bengal State Archeology Department, the temple is approached by a three arched entrance way and with elaborate terracotta carvings on its front face. Above the arches, in the centre, lies the huge terracotta panel of Durga. This is probably the largest terracotta panel in the whole of West Bengal. It is flanked on the left by slightly smaller panels of Laxshmi & Ganesh and on the right by Sarswati & Kartik. Stucco work, in the form of temple, surrounds each of the five panels giving them a unique look. There are several other smaller terracotta panels all over the front surface of the temple.
Bidding good bye to the temples, retrace your steps back to the main road, where an octagonal Rashmancha greets you. Sadly the century old structure has been totally reconstructed into a modern structure resembling neither the beauty nor the grace of its former counterpart.
If you are still hungry for more you can walk along the main road towards Arambagh. You will soon come across the crumbling remains of a Rashmancha. Further 10 minutes down the road will bring you to the remains of a dilapidated temple on the right hand side of the road. Totally overgrown with trees the temple still contains a few intricately carved terracotta panels. A few minutes further down the road will bring you to a spectacular mansion with arched gateways and slender columns. Known as the Shiv Kuthir, the spectacular building has long been abandoned and roofs have caved in. The inside is overgrown with trees and totally inaccessible.
The crumbling temples and mansions of Bali – Dewanganj will definitely make you sad. But in spite of all odds the Durga Temple with its unique architecture and rich terracotta carvings are spectacular enough to turn Bali – Dewanganj into your next Sunday outing spot.
- Hooghly Jelar Purakirti by Narendranath Bhattacharya
Links from my personal website:
List of my Blog entry on West Bengal
“Char chak, chodda para, tin ghat; ei neye Rajbalhat” (four crossing, fourteen localities and three bathing areas; consists of Rajbalhat) goes an old saying. Today Rajbalhat is a non descriptive town in the Jangipara block of Hooghly district but its history dates back to the 16th century when it was the capital of the Bhursut (Bhurishrestha) Empire.
The 16th century temple housing the idol of Devi Rajballavi, after whom Rajbalhat is named, can still be seen to this day but sadly the temple has been renovated several times and in the process wiping out centuries of history.
The strange idol of Rajballavi, about six feet in height, is white in colour and his left leg rests on the head of seated Birupakha Mhadev and right leg rest on the chest of Mahakal Bhairab. The right hand has a dagger while the left a sindoor case. The temple is still active and devotees from the surrounding region converge to Rajbalhat to pay tribute to the Goddess. Rajbalhat also houses a couple of terracotta temples and offers an interesting mix of pilgrimage and history, ideal for your next Sunday gateway.
Haripal is the nearest rail head and the morning Tarakeshwar local is the best way to get there. From Haripal a bumpy ride on an overcrowded trekker takes you to Rajbalhat. Get down at the Rajbalavi temple complex. Built by Raja Rudranarayan of Bhursut the Rajballavi Temple complex also houses four shiva temples, one of which is octagonal in shape. Sadly the entire complex has undergone several renovations and has lost all trace of its 500 years of history. But the strange idol of Devi Rajballavi, still reminds one of the historic days of the temple. The temple is still active and pujas can be offered.
Bidding farewell to the Rajballavi Temple Complex head for Silpara, housing another temple complex. This temple complex houses several temples but the star attraction is the 1724 built terracotta temple of Sridhar Damodor. The front faced of the temple is covered with intricate terracotta works. Sadly the overenthusiastic locals have given it a multi coloured facelift and in the process partially destroying the century old art. The terracotta panels consist of war scenes from Ramayana, elaborate images of ships and boats and last but not the least scenes from day to day life.
During the British period Rajbalhat was an important centre of silk industry and in 1789 East India Company set up a Commercial Residency in Rajbalhat. The silk survives to this day and the sound of the hand loams can still be heard in Rajbalhat. Bobbins of thread left to dry are a regular sight.
Take a narrow lane past the temple complex and walk past the textile workshop with its battering loams. Walk past women spinning cotton thread on charka (spinning wheels). The lane meanders on reminding one of North Calcutta or even of Beneras. Finally the lane emerges in Rajbalhat Bazar and a short walk takes you to the grand temple of Radhakanta in Ghataktala.
Built in 1733 the Radhakanta temple stands on a square base of approximately 20 feet length and rises to a height of about 50 feet. The front face consists of elaborate terracotta and luckily the locals have spared them of their bizarre decorative effort. The panels remain in their authentic brick red colour.
The aat chala temple has a triple arched entrance with the arch panels consisting of elaborate battle scenes of Ramayana.
The base panels mainly consist of images of ships & boats and of royal chariots & processions.
Finally it is time for home but if you are still hungry for more do visit the more famous terracotta temples of Aatpur on your way home.
Links from my personal website:
List of my Blog entry on West Bengal