Sripur ~ Temples & Boats

February 19, 2012 2 comments

Almost a hundred years after Vasco da Gama landed on the West Coast of India the Portuguese & other European powers started making inroads into Bengal. Using the intricate network of rivers of the Ganga – Bramhaputra Delta the Europeans settled in various parts of Bengal. Their huge barges and ships sailed up & down the Hooghly carrying merchandise from far off lands.

Sripur Temple Complex

Sripur Temple Complex

Soon the country was in need of boats, barges and even ships. A boat building industry was set up in Sripur, near the present day Balagarh station on the Bandel – Katwa line. Sripur soon started producing not only boats of different shapes and sizes but also ocean going ships turning the non descriptive village into a busy industrial town.

In the early 18th century, during the golden days of Sripur, Raghunandan Mitra Mustafi of Ula Birnagar in Nadia, migrated to Sripur. Taking advantage of the river trade he soon made a fortune and established a fort complex complete with several temples and other religious structures decorated with elaborate and intricate wood curving. The fort has long crumbled into dust but a few of the temples, along with the intricate wood work, have survived the test of time and can still be seen to this day.

Century old temples with extensive wood curving, along with age old boat making industry and last but not least the grand views of the river Hooghly can well turn Sripur into your next Sunday outing destination.

The 70 km journey to Sripur takes about 2 hours from Howrah. Although rickshaws are available from the Balagarh station to the Sripur temple complex, but it is best to take a leisurely walk. After about 25 minutes of walk you reach the Sripur village, where you are welcomed by the sound of boat maker’s hammer. Walk past the numerous boat making workshops to the temple complex.

Dol Mancha, Sripur

Dol Mancha, Sripur

On the left of the road lie a temple and a Dol Mancha. The temple, housing a Shiva – Linga, have been reconstructed and in the process losing its beauty and grace. But the two storied Dol Mancha, with its elegant pillars & arches and crowned with the decorative railing, still reminds one of the glorious days of Sripur.

From the Dol Mancha take a right turn and walk past the Twin Shiv Mandir towards the main cluster of temples. The walls of the Twin Shiv Temples were once covered with intricate terracotta works but sadly they have been plastered off.

The main temple complex houses the Radha Gobinda Mandir along with several temples, Rash Mancha, Nat Mandir. But the star attraction of Sripur is the intricately curved wooden Chandi Mandap.

Wood Curving, Chandi Mandap, Sripur

Wood Curving, Chandi Mandap, Sripur

The Chandi Mandap constructed in 1707 by the Mitra Mustafi family, has recently been declared a protected monument. The hay thatched roof has been replaced with corrugated sheet, thus robbing it of its former beauty and grace. But the real wonder lies inside the Mandap, where the Durga Pujo is held to this day. The three walls of the Chandi Mandap are decorated with the most intricate wood curved panels. The wooden panels are very similar to the terracotta panels that dot the walls of the numerous temples of Bengal. But the wood work is not restricted to the panels alone. The pillars and the roof beams are curved with the finest floral, geometric & figurative designs.

The temple complex houses a octagonal Rash Mancha, complete with nine pinnacles (one each at the eight corners and a larger central one) and an Nat Mandir with elegant pillars. The main temple housing dedicated to Radha Gobinda has totally been transformed into a modern structure.

Boat Construction, Sripur

Boat Construction, Sripur

Bidding farewell to the temple complex head for one of the numerous boat work – shops. Although the Sripur boat industry is now only restricted to small boats but it is still a great experience seeing the boat taking shape. You are also likely come across some over enthusiastic boat maker narrating you about the glorious days of the boat construction industry of Sripur.

Head past the Sripur Bazar to the banks of the Hooghly, where the fresh air will add an extra dash of oxygen to your tired lungs.

Reference:

  • Hooghly Jelar Purakirti by Narendranath Bhattacharya.

Related links from my Personal Website:

Parsi (Zoroastrian) Fire Temple, Calcutta (Kolkata)

January 25, 2012 Leave a comment

Zoroastrianism is a religion based on the teaching of prophet Zoroaster. Founded in the 6th century BC, Zoroastrianism is considered one of the oldest religions of the world.

Parsi Fire Temple, Metcalfe Street (Bandook Gali)

Parsi Fire Temple, Metcalfe Street (Bandook Gali)

The Parsi first arrived in India well before the birth of Christ and settled in the West Coast of India. About 200 years ago the Parsis first settled in Calcutta (Kolkata). The first Parsi Temple was first set up in 1839 but it was abandoned.

Foundation Plaque, Parsi Fire Temple, Calcutta

Foundation Plaque, Parsi Fire Temple, Calcutta

The present fire temple of Anjuman Atash Adran was established in 1912 by  Ervad Dhunjeebhoy Byramjee Mehta and operates to this day. Anjuman Atash Adran Temple is located on the Metcalfe Street (Popularly called the Bandook Gali) in the Boubazar area of Central Calcutta (Kolkata).

The Parsi are fire worshipers and the holy flame eternally burns in the Parsi Fire Temple. The Parsi Temple is out of reach of Non Parsis . But the during the first week of December 2010 the temple was repaired and holy fire removed from the alter. Non Parsis were allowed in the Fire Temple and I was luck enough to shoot inside the temple.

Faravahar, Primary Symbol of Zoroastrianism

Faravahar, Primary Symbol of Zoroastrianism

The ground floor of the Parsi Temple consists of a large hall usually used for social gathering. It also contains a century old grand father’s clock. The walls contain a bras plate of Faravahar, the Primary Symbol of Zoroastrianism. Faravahar consists of a winged disc, with a male upper body.

The second floor consists of a similar hall, with beautiful  marble flooring. The circular alter, at the centre of the hall housed the holy fire (removed during my visit). Opening in the roof above the fire allowed the smoke to escape but prevented the rain from coming in.

Stained Glass, Parsi Fire Temple, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Stained Glass, Parsi Fire Temple, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Each of the doors and windows are crowned with a semi – circular stained glass, depicting different aspects of Zoroastrian iconography, ranging from the holy fire to the winged disc of Faravahar. The fire temple also houses beautiful frosted glass work.

Reference:

Links from my website:

Synagogues of Calcutta (Kolkata)

January 18, 2012 Leave a comment

Calcutta (Kolkata) has always been a melting pot of various cultures & religions. Jews were one of the last communities to arrive in Calcutta (Kolkata) but within a short span of time they made their presence felt by controlling a large section of the trade in Calcutta (Kolkata).

Once the Jews in Calcutta (Kolkata) numbered 6000 and had an active community complete with Synagogues where various religious rituals were carried out. The independence of India in 1947 and the birth of the Jewish state of Israel in 1948 marked the decline of Jewish population in Calcutta (Kolkata). Today the only about 30 Jews are left in the city.

But the two synagogues, Beth El & Magen David, of Calcutta (Kolakta) still stands. Declared as protected monuments they are looked after by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Magen David Synagogue

Magen David Synagogue, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Magen David Synagogue, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Built in 1884 the Magen David, or the Shield of David, Synagogue is located at the junction of Brabourne Road and Cannig Street (Biplabi Rashbehari Road). It is located on one of the busiest crossing of Calcutta (Kolkata) and its 140 feet high clock tower still dominates the Calcutta (Kolkata) skyline. Sadly not many Calcuttans are aware of its existence and it is often mistaken as a church.

The Maghen David Synagogue is approached through a arched door, containing the hexagonal “Star of David” and Hebrew inscription. Ther two side walls contains memorial plaques dedicated to the well known Jews of Calcutta (Kolkata).

Magen David Synagogue (Left: Entrance Right: Interiors)

Magen David Synagogue (Left: Entrance Right: Interiors)

Alter, Magen David Synagogue, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Alter, Magen David Synagogue, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Although the services of the Magen David Synagogue have long stopped but the interior are astonishingly well maintained. The chequered marble floor, gleaming chandeliers, stained glass windows create a stunning atmosphere.

The alter of the Magen David Synagogue is crowned with a Apse (Half Dome) studded with stars. It represents the heaven. The large plaque in the middle contain the “Ten Commandments.”

It also contains several other Hebrew inscription along with several other items of Jewish Iconography, including the seven branched lamp stand of Menorah.

Bethel El Synagogue

Beth El Synagogue, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Beth El Synagogue, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Beth El Synagogue is located stones throw away from the Magen David Synagogue and is located just of the Brabourne Road, on Pollock Street.  Surrounded by shops selling electrical goods the Beth El Synagogue is located in one of the busiest localities of Calcutta (Kolkata).  Although the words “Beth El Synagogue” are written at the entrance but the thousand of people walking past it everyday is unaware of its exsistence.

The Beth El Synagogue is a approached by a flight of marble stairs toped with an arched stained glass and finally crowned with a clock (not visible in the photo). The pale yellow faced of the Bethel Synagogue is complete with Jewish iconography of the hexagonal “Star of David” and the seven pointed candle stand of “Menorah.”

Beth El Synagogue (Left: Interior, Right: Stained Glass)

Beth El Synagogue (Left: Interior, Right: Stained Glass)

Although the services of the Beth El Synagogue have long stopped but the interior are astonishingly well maintained. The chequered marble floor, gleaming chandeliers, stained glass windows create a stunning atmosphere.

Alter, Beth El Synagogue

Alter, Beth El Synagogue

The hall is surrounded by balconies on three sides At the centre of the hall lies the raised platform, from where the Rabi (Jewish Prist) carried out his services. At the end of the hall lies the alter crowned with the Apse (Half Dome) with Hebrew inscriptions, including the “Ten Commandments.”

The stained glasses are the one of the finest attraction of the Beth El Synagogue. The most attractive of the stained glass lies atop the main arched entrance of the Beth El Synagogue. The beautiful arched shaped stained glass is best viewed from the balcony opposite the alter.

Note: A permission is required from David Nahoum, one of the last remaining Jews who runs the famous confectionary Nahoum at the New Market, to visit the Synagogues.

Related links from my website & blog:

Bowali ~ Temples & Mansions

January 11, 2012 Leave a comment

Bowali, a non – descriptive village just off the Diamond Harbour Road (DH rd) from Amtala, is home to towering temples and palatial mansions.

Nabaratna styled Gopinath Temple, Bowali

Nabaratna styled Gopinath Temple, Bowali

History books tell us that the Mondals of Bowali were originally Roys. Shovaram, the grandson of Basudev Roy (who lived between the end of 16th century and the early 17th century), was awarded the title Mondal. Shovaram’s grandson Rajaram was the senapati of the Raja of Hijli. Moved by his bravery, the raja offered him the ownership of 50 villages, which included Bowali and Budge Budge.

Gopinath Temple, Bowali

Gopinath Temple, Bowali

The family set up residence in Bowali. This marked the beginning of their dominance in the area, roughly around 1710. The family flourished under Rajaram’s grandson Haradhan, who enjoyed the patronage of East India Company. He built many temples and his seven sons followed in his footsteps, turning the nondescript village into a temple town.

Today Bowali is well connected by road from Amtala on Diamond Harbour Road (DH rd.) by a bumpy trekker ride of 45 minutes. The towering Gopinath Temple, built in nabaratna style, dominates the Bowali skyline. In front of the temple is a flat – roofed natmandir, whose roof has long colapsed. All that remains are the slender pillars and arches.

In front of the ruined natmandir is a circular platform, which once housed the octagonal Rashmancha. The Rashmancha collapsed during the 2008 monsoon and the platform is all that remains of the spectacular octagonal structure.

Bowali Mansion

Bowali Mansion

Behind the temple lies the Radha-Kanta and Lakshmi-Janardan temples, both built in traditional aat – chala style. Sadly they are overgrown with vegetation and almost inaccessible. Scattered around the temples are several decapitated structures, including the remains of a Dolmancha. Large portions of the Dolamancha have already collapsed making it inaccessable.

Next to Gopinath temple is the Radhaballav temple. This structure is well maintained. Built around 1857, it houses the idols of all the surrounding abandoned temples. The two-storeyed Mondal Villa is next door. The plaster has peeled off and several portions are on the verge of collapse. There is no trace of the landscaped garden that once surrounded it.

Bowali also has an interesting architectural piece called the jal tungi (water folly). An octagonal structure, built at the centre of a pond, with ornamental railings and windows with Venetian blinds. The folly with slender columns and a long flight of stairs, approachable by boat from a ghat, allowed the Mondals to enjoy the evening breeze.

Left: Ghat and Right: Jal Tungi (Water Folly) at Bowali

Left: Ghat and Right: Jal Tungi (Water Folly) at Bowali

The ghat is a 15-minute walk from the temple complex. The railings and the windows of the folly did not survive the test of time and the waters of the pond are now covered by water hyacinth. But the jal tungi still stands and so does the ghat, reminding one of the glorious past of Bowali.

If you are planning a day trip to Bowali, hurry, for the forces of nature and human neglect would soon turn the attractions of the village into dust.

Reference:

  • Dakshin Chabis Pargana Jelar Purakirti by Sagar Chattopadhyay

Related links from my website:

Writers’ Building ~ Calcutta (Kolkata)

January 4, 2012 2 comments

“At the centre of Calcutta lay the Writers’ Building, where the young Company officials were lodged while they underwent their initial training.”

  White Mughals by William Dalrymple

Writers' Building, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Writers' Building, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Writers’ Building is so called because it once housed the clerical and administrative staff (writers) of East India Company. Today it houses the main state secretariat and the office of the Chief Minister.  The 150 mts long building occupies the entire nort end of the Lal Dighi (Tank Square).

Minerva above the central protico

Minerva above the central protico

Built in 1777 and the designed by Thomas Lyon the building has undergone several extension and changes over the years.

In 1821 128 long verandah with ionic columns, each 32 feet high,  were added on the first and second floor. During 1879 – 1906 Writers’ were given its familiar Greco – Roman look, complete with the portico in the central bay and the red surface of exposed bricks. The parapet was put in place and the statues sculpted by William Fredric Woodington were added in 1883, that line the terrace, were installed.

Minerva stands above the central portico. The almost invisible inscription of the word “Minerva” can be still be seen in the statues foot. The statue has also suffered the effects of human neglect. The once broken left hand has been replaced but sadly it lacks the grace and beauty of its former counterpart.

Statues on Writers' Terrace

Statues on Writers' Terrace

Also the terrace contains several other statues notable are the statues representing Agriculture, Commerce, Justice and Science. Each set consists of three statues with Queen Victoria in the Middle. She is flanked on both sides by respective representatives of Britain and India.

Writers' Building, across Lal Dighi (Tank Square)

Writers' Building, across Lal Dighi (Tank Square)

The Siege of Writers’ Building (1930)

Statue of Benoy, Badal & Dinesh in front of Writers' Building

Statue of Benoy, Badal & Dinesh in front of Writers' Building

On 8th December 1930 Benoy Basu, Badal Gupta and Dinesh Gupta headed for the Writers’ Building. Dressed in European out fit they carried loaded revolvers. They shot dead the notorious Inspector General of Police Colonel N S Simpson, infamous for his brutal oppression of the prisoners in the jail.

They shot dead Col Simpson and took siege of the Writers’ Building, soon a gun battle followed in the corridors of the Writers’ Building. Unable to match up with the might force of Calcutta Police, the trio soon find themselves overpowered and cornered.

Unwilling to give themselves up Badal took Potassium Cyanide and died instantly, while his fellow comrades shot themselves. Benoy died five days later in hospital but Dinesh survived only to be hanged to death on 7th July 1931.

Todaythe Dalhousie Square is named after the trio and is called BBD Bagh. A statue of Benoy, Badal & Dinesh stand in front of Writers’ Building, showing Benoy, the group leader, leading his comrades for the last battle.

For more information on Siege of Writers’ Building visit:

  • Calcutta Town Hall showing a light and sound show of the ivent.
  • Calcutta Police Museum. at Manicktala, housing the revolvers of the trio and other documents.

 Reference:

  • White Mughals by William Dalrymple.
  • 10 walks in Calcutta by Prosenjit Das Gupta
  • Writs of Writers, by Soumitra Das (The Telegarph 20 May 2011)
  •  Saswata Kolkata by Nisth Ranjan Roy

Revelent Links from My Website:

2011 in review

January 1, 2012 4 comments

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2011 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

A San Francisco cable car holds 60 people. This blog was viewed about 3,400 times in 2011. If it were a cable car, it would take about 57 trips to carry that many people.

Click here to see the complete report.

Categories: General

Chinese New Year ~ Calcutta

December 31, 2011 1 comment

The Chinese settlement of Calcutta dates back to to 1780s when a trader named Tong Achew set up his sugar factory near present day Budge-Budge. The place today is known as Achipur, after Tong Achew. The Chinese soon deserted Achipur and headed for Calcutta (Kolkata), where they are presently settled in Tangra & Tiretta Bazar regions.

Red Dragon down the road

Red Dragon down the road

The Calcutta Chinese community celebrates the Chinese New Year in traditional way complete with dragon & lion dances at Tangra & Tiretta Bazar. The celebration starts several days before the new years day with stage shows set up at both Tiretta Bazar & Tangra. On the day of the Chinese New Year dragon & lion dances are held on the streets of Tiretta Bazar & Tangra.

On the Sunday after the Chinese New Year the entire Chinese community of Calcutta converges at Achipur (near Budge – Budge) to pay tribute to Tong Achew, the first Chinese settler of India.

The celebration in Calcutta (Kolkata) starts about a week before the new years day. Giant stages are set up at both Tangra & Tiretta Bazar. In Tiretta Bazar a huge stage is set up at Chattawalla Guli, the venue of famous chinese breakfast. Dragon & lion dances and various cultural programes are performed on the stage.

Lion Dance (Left: Stage, Right: Street)

Lion Dance (Left: Stage, Right: Street)

Dances are also held on the street accompanied by loud firecrackers. No Chinese festival is complete with Chinese food. Makeshift food stalls sell mouth watering sausages, dim sums and noodles.

Left: Lion Dance, Right: Dragon Dance

Left: Lion Dance, Right: Dragon Dance

On the morning of the Chinese New Year the Chinese of Calcutta assembles in the Chinese Temples of Tiretta Bazar and Tangra. Candles are lit and soon the lion and dragon dance starts in the temple compound or  in front of it.

The Lion heads for the Lettuce

The Lion heads for the Lettuce

The dancers soon make their way outside the temple making their way through the winding lanes of Calcutta’s China Town, accompanied by beating of drums and cymbles and not to mention the loud firecrackers.

The dancers make their way to different Chinese business establishment, shops, eateries and even some house hold. The lion heads out for the the piece of lettuce suspended high above. The two dancers, managing the lion, after some efforts finally get hold of the piece of lettuce containing money wrapped in red paper, decorated with Chinese calligraphy.

The entire Tiretta Bazar area comes alive as difference groups of dancers through the winding lanes going as far away as Bow Barracks. Occasionally the long dragon, managed by six dancers,  can be seen making its way through the lanes and by – lanes of Tiretta Bazar.

The situation is similar in Tangra.

Notes:

  • The photos are shot at Tiretta Bazar (2010 & 11) and Achipur (2010)
  • The Chinese New Year 2012 is scheduled on 23 Jan and is the “Year of Dragon.”

Reference from my Website & Blog:

Calcutta GPO ~ Site of Old Fort.

December 28, 2011 Leave a comment

Located on the crossing of Netaji Subhas Road and Koilaghat Street, is located Calcutta’s main or General Post Ofiice (GPO). General Post Office (GPO) is one of the famous landmark of the city of Calcutta (Kolkata). Built in 1864 the majestic building was designed by Walter B. Grenvile.

General Post Office (GPO), Calcutta (Kolkata)

General Post Office (GPO), Calcutta (Kolkata)

The majestic building has two wings supported by Ionic – Corinthian pillars and is crowned with a towering dome. Today it operates as the chief post office of West Bengal and contains a Philately Department and a Postal Museum.

Built at the sight of the old Fort William (built in 1700), which was destroyed by Shiraj – ud – Daulah during the “Seige of Calcutta” in 1756.

Left: Plaque mentioning the Brass Plate, Right: Portion of the Brass Plate

Left: Plaque mentioning the Brass Plate, Right: Portion of the Brass Plate

Along the eastern staircase of the GPO almost invisible brass plate marks the eastern end of the old Fort William, probably the only remains of the old fort of Calcutta.

In recent years a marble plaque has been put on the Eastern walls of GPO mentioning the Brass Plate but still the almost obliterate brass plate is difficult to spot. Thousand of pedestrians walk pass the GPO everyday ignoring the only remains of the Old Fort of Calcutta.

Reference:

  • 10 Wlaks in Calcutta by Prosenjit Das Gupta
  • Saswata Kolkata by Nishitranjan Roy

Bengali War Memorial

December 25, 2011 7 comments
Bengali War Memorial, College Square, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Bengali War Memorial, College Square, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Bengalis have never been a warrior race, and a Bengali fighting a war would be one of the last thing one can imagine. Bengalis are rather dubbed as book worms showing their excellence in academic fields. But in the very heart of Kolkata’s acadamic hub stands a memorial dedicated to the Bengali warriors killed during World War I.

Located just at the entrance of East gate of College Square this monument is rarely visible as its is likely to be surrounded by posters or wet clothings left to dry. Top of the pillar, like memorial, is marked with the inscription “49 Bengalis.” 49 stood for the 49th Bengali Regiment.

The base contains the following inscriptions “In memory of members of The 49th Bengalee Regiment who died in the Great War, 1914-1918, To the Glory of God, King and Country.”

It is to be noted that 1,300,000 Indian troups fought by the side of British Armyin the First World War (1914 – 18) in far of countries like Egypt, Mesopotamia, France, etc. Although Indian soldiers were not allowed to rise as commissioned officers, but £115 million was paid from the Indian exchequer.

The other three sides of the memorial base contains the names of the 49 Bengalis killed in the Great War of 1914 – 1918. It also contains the following information of Reg. No., Rank, Date of Death, District from which come.

Middle: Main inscription of Bengali War Memorial; Left & Right: Name List

Middle: Main inscription of Bengali War Memorial; Left & Right: Name List

The districts are Midnapore, Mymensinh, Murshidabad, Nadia, Calcutta, Jessore, Burdwan, Pabna, Chittagong, Khulna, Barisal, Faridpore, Pabna, 24-Parganas and Tripura (Tipperah).

Sadly the cultural active Bengali’s have forgotten the heroic deeds of their forefathers and the Bengali War memorial lies in utter neglect – forgotten & neglected.

Reference:

Tears for subaltern by Soumitra Das

Diamond Triangle ~ Buddhist Heritage of Orissa

December 22, 2011 Leave a comment

The Diamond Triangle, consisting of the three Buddhist sites of Ratnagiri, Udaygiri & Lalitgiri. Belonging to the Vajyarajyan sect of Buddhism, which is popularly known as the Diamond Vehicle, and hence the name Diamond Triangle.

Rough sketch map of Diamond Triangle.

Rough sketch map of Diamond Triangle.

Visited by the Chinese traveller Hieun Tsang, the centres of learning were at par with their famed counterparts of Nalanda & Taxila.

Located about 100 km North – East of Bhubaneswar the Diamond Triangle, is the most important Buddhist site in Orissa, but sadly it is least promoted.

There are no places to stay or even to eat, but you will have the ruins all to yourself and live up to the famous saying “I am the monarch of all I survey.”

RATNAGIRI

Ratnagiri, true to its name it is indeed a gem. It is the most excavated of the sites and is spread over a hilltop offering grand view of the surrounding. Excavated in 1960s the site yielded two rectangular monasteries and a large stupa surrounded by smaller ones, dating back to the 6 – 12 century AD. Its strategic location protected it from invaders and provided seclusion to the monk.

Left: Stone doorframe & Right: Sculpture

Left: Stone door frame & Right: Sculpture

Entering the complex head straight for the larger monastery approached through an intricately curved door frame, leading on to an open courtyard. On the far end of the courtyard is the inner sanctum housing a giant statue of Buddha, in bhumisparsha posture, flanked on either side by statues of Padmapani and Vajrapani. Entire courtyard is decorated with artifacts collected from the excavation. They include several Buddha heads of different size, several statues and floral & geometrical motifs.

Left: Buddha; Right: Scattred artifacts

Left: Buddha; Right: Scattered artifacts

A small stupa, with giant stupa in background, Ratnagiri.

Stupas, Ratnagiri.

Next to the main monastery lies another monastery, much smaller in size it lacks the beauty and grace of its larger counterpart. Unlike the larger one it’s inner sanctum in empty.

The highest point of the Ratnagiri sight is marked with a giant stupa, surrounded by smaller ones. Some of this smaller (votif) stupas are arranged in circles. The whole hill top contains several structural remains covering a large area.

The hill top also provides a grand view of the surrounding rural Orissa landscape.

Ratnagiri also houses a beautiful museum containing several artifacts recovered from the excavation of Ratnagiri.

UDAYGIRI

Buddha statue at Udaygiri entrance

Buddha statue at Udaygiri entrance

Udaygir, the hill of the rising sun, is the largest of the three archaeological sites of Ratnagiri, Udaygiri & Lalitgiri. Sadly it is the least excavated. Excavation at Udaygiri started in 1960s, and have been carried out in several phases, and continues to this day. The archeological findings are classified in two parts, namely Udaygiri I and Udaygiri II.

A Buddha statue welcomes one to the Udaygiri complex, a tree lined path leads to an open space decorated with Buddha statues and other religious artifacts, excavated from Udaygiri.

Left: Giant Stupa, Udaygiri; Right: Scattered ruins Udaygiri.

Left: Giant Stupa, Udaygiri; Right: Scattered ruins Udaygiri.

Giant Buddha, Udaygiri

Giant Buddha, Udaygiri

Next to the open space is a small step – well, with a long flight of stairs leading to the water bellow. Walking past the well we headed for Udaygiri II. Walk past the scattered ruins, head for the newly excavated monastery of Udaygiri II, housing a collosal Buddha.

Follow a dirt trail leading to the main stupa of Udaygiri, housing four Buddha statues in the four cardinal directions. Walk past the stupa visited the second monastery of Udaygiri, known as Udaygiri I, again housing a giant Buddha statue in a decorated inner sanctum, complete with several other religious statues.

LALITGIRI

Lotus shaped staircase, Lalitgiri

Lotus shaped staircase, Lalitgiri

A newly built Buddhist style gateway on the welcomes one to the Paradeep highway welcomes visitors to Lalitgiri. Lalitgiri is considered the holiest of the three sites of Diamond Triangle, as excavation yielded a casket containing a sacred bone relic, probably of Buddha himself.

The site contains four small monasteries, none matching the grace and beauty of its counterpart in Ratnagiri and Udaygiri. The inner sanctums are empty and are all of them are approached with beautiful lotus shaped staircase.

But the star attraction of Lalitgiri is the U – shaped Chaityagriha, surrounded by votif (small) stupa, which once housed the tooth relic.

Left: Giant stupa, Lalitgiri; Right: U – shaped Chaityagriha

Left: Giant stupa, Lalitgiri; Right: U – shaped Chaityagriha

A 45 step climb takes one to the giant circular stupa of Lalitgiri, which also doubles up as a great view point of lush green rural Orissa.

Reference from my website:

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