Portuguese Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Portuguese Church (1799)

~ Catholics Cathedral of Calcutta (Kolkata) ~

Also see my compilation of Calcutta (Kolkata) Churches

Portugese Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Historical evidences indicate that the Portuguese arrived in Calcutta (Kolkata) much before Job Charnok, but their relationship with the English has never been friendly.

The first Portuguese place of worship in Calcutta (Kolkata) date backs to the late 17 th century, consisted of a mud hut. In 1700 it was converted into a brick structure.

In 1757 Lord Clive expelled the Portuguese from Calcutta (Kolkata) and the Catholic Portuguese Chapel was converted into an Anglican Protestant Chapel.

Four years later the ban was lifted and the Portuguese got back their chapel in 1796. They decided to convert the chapel into a Church and funds were raised. The well known Portuguese traders Baretto Brothers were leading contributors.

The new church, which exsists to this day, was opened to public on 27 Nov. 1799. Designed by James Driver it was constructed at a cost of Rs90,000.

Christmas Mass, Portuguese Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Dedicated to Rosary Virgin Mary, the Portuguese Church serves as a Cathedral Church for the Catholic Christian’s of Calcutta (Kolkata).

Stained Glass, Portuguese Church

Built in typical Catholic style the Portuguese Church comes in with twin towers which are shaped more like minarets, topped with crowned shaped cupolas. The extended portico is crowned with a triangular pediment decorated with beautiful relief work.

The inside is even more spectacular with long corridor leading to beautifully decorated alterflanked with intricately decorated circular stained glass windows.

The walls are lined with confession boxes and statues of Jesus, Mary, Joseph and various other Biblical character complete with fairies and angles.

But the star attraction of th Portuguese Church are the 14 Cross Station of Christ. The beautiful coloured bass relief tables are framed in polished wooden frame and are hung along the walls of the Portuguese Church.

Portuguese Church located on the Murgihata Street just off the Brabourne Road and Canning Street crossing. Although located in one of the busiest localities of Calcutta (Kolkata) it serves as a oasis of peace like most of the Calcutta (Kolkata) Churches.

Interior of Portuguese Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Reference:

• 10 Walks in Calcutta by Prosenjit Das Gupta
• Swasato Kolkata ~ Ingrej Amala er Sthapothya by Nishitranjan Roy

Armenian Christmas Celebration, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Armenian Christmas Celebration

6 January 2013, Armenian Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Also see my blog post on Armenians of Calcutta (Kolkata)

Armenian Christmas Celebration, Armenian Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Yes you have read it right “Christmas on 6 January !!!!!” It is the Armenian Christmas. The Armenian Orthodox Church  celebrates the birth of Christ on January 6 (also known as Old Christmas).

Choir, Armenian Christmas, Calcutta (Kolkata)

According to Rev. Father Khoren Hovhannisyan, pastor (priest) of Armenians in India “When we wish someone Merry Christmas in Armenian, we are actually saying that Christ is born and revealed, and blessed is Christ’s revelation.”

According to historic records Christians worldwide celebrated Christ’s birth on January 6, till the fourth century. Rome changed the birth date to December 25 to override a pagan festival dedicated to the birth of the sun. The Armenian Church just kept the original date. Also Armenia happens to be the first country to adopt Christianity as the state religion.

Armenian Christmas, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Although only 150 Armenians live in the city but the Armenians have a long history dating far beyond the days of Job Charnock, the controversial founder of the city of Calcutta. Unlike the Portuguese their relation with the English has always been friendly. The Armenian Church of Calcutta (Kolkata), oficaillay known as the Holy Church of Nazareth was built in 1707 but the present structure dates back to 1724 thus making it the oldest church in Calcutta (Kolkata). Over the years the Armenian Church of Calcutta (Kolkata) has undergone several modification and extension, including the inclusion of the clock tower.

Armenian Christmas, Calcutta (Kolkata)

The Christmas Mass, officially known as the Divine Liturgy started at about 9:30 am conducted by Rev. Fr. Khoren Hovhannisyan, he was assisted by Rev. Fr. Geghart Ghabaghyan along with a host of boys from the Calcutta Armenian School and College. The language was Armenian and although I didn’t understand a word of what they said but it was a mesmarising experience hearing their voice thunder through the corridors of the Armenian Church.

The grand alter was decorated beautifully with flowers and candles. The Christmas choir consisting of boys and girls from the Armenian College sang from the balcony.

The audience hall is packed with about 150 Armenians, many of them of them coming form far of lands like the USA and Australia. A large section of Calcutta (Kolkata) Armenians have long migrated to far of countries but many make it a point to return on the Christmas day to the church where they were baptized.

Cross, Armenian Christmas, Calcutta

Mr Malcolm Catchatorian, the lead singer of the Armenian Xmas choir, have travelled all the way from California, USA to attend the Christmas in the church, where he himself was baptised more than 60 years ago.

To prepare themselves for the great festival, Armenians fast for a week to cleanse themselves to be worthy of a great miracle and prepare for the celebrations of the great festival. The Armenian Christmas is quiet different from the Protestant and Catholic Christmas Mass. The highlight of the Armenian Christmas is the ceremony of  “Blessing of Water” it commemorate Christ’s Baptism in River Jordan. The Cross will be immersed in water to symbolize the baptism of Christ.

Armenian Christmas Celebration, Armenian Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

The mass ends with the drinking of the “Blessed Water” along with wafers and kissing of the cross, which represent “Baptised Christ.”

Special Thanks:

• A special thanks to the entire Armenian Community of Calcutta (Kolkata) for their immense cooperation and for allowing me to photograph the entire event.

Reference:

• It’s Xmas time for Armenians The Times of India, 3 Jan., 2012
• It’s Christmas day for a band of Armenians The Times of India, 6 Jan., 2011

This blog entry on Armenian Christmas, Calcutta (Kolkata) has been twitted by Amitav Ghosh.

Calcutta (Kolkata) Churches

~ Compilation of Churches of Calcutta (Kolkata) ~

Kolkata (formally Calcutta) is home to several churches catering to different sects and sub – sects of Christianity. Apart from the well known Protestant and Catholic sects Calcutta (Kolkata) also houses churches belonging to the Orthodox sect including Armenian, Syrian and Greek orthodox sub – sets.

Armenian Church (1724)

~ Oldest Christian Church of Calcutta (Kolkata) ~

Armenian Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Armenians claims to be the first Europeans to settle in Calcutta. But unlike the Portuguese their relation with the English has always been friendly. The Armenian Church of Calcutta (Kolkata) built in 1724 has the distinction of being the oldest church in Calcutta (Kolkata).

Over the years the Armenian Church of Calcutta (Kolkata) has undergone several modification and extension, including the inclusion of the clock tower. Sadly Calcutta’s (Kolkata’s) oldest church is nothing much spectacular in design and beauty, but it’s compound shaded with ancient mango & jamun trees serves as an oasis of peace amoungst one of Calcutta’s (Kolkata’s) bussiest locality.

The Armenian Church of Calcutta (Kolkata) is surrounded by a graveyard contain a large number of graves, among which the most interesting, or rather controversial, is the grave of Rezabeebeh Sookias who departed from this world on 11th June 1630, making it the oldest Christian grave of Calcutta (Kolkata). But historian claims that the mortal remains of Mrs Sookias were removed to the Armenian Church graveyard at a later date.

More on Armenian Christmas (6 Jan. 2012) Celebration at Armenian Church

Mission Church (1770)

~ Oldest Protestant Church of Calcutta (Kolkata) ~

Mission Church, Calcutta (Ko;kata)

Mission Church the second oldest Christian Church of Calcutta and the oldest Protestant Church of the city was founded in 1770 by Swedish Missionary Re. John Kiernander. After the construction of the St. John’s Church the Mission Church came to be known as the Old Church. Today it is erroneously known as the Old Mission Church.

The Church was also popularly known as Lal Girja, literally meaning Red Church, for its unplastered brick red finish, but sadly the exteriors have long been plastered off. The church also constructed a towering steeple which toppled during the earthquake of 1897.

Today the church is encroached by high rises on both sides and vehicles of all sort, belonging to the Kolkata Police, are parked infron of the church, blocking its views. But the interior is still grand with long colonnaded corridors leading to the stained glass decorated alter.

More on Old or Mission Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

St. John’s Church (1787)

~ Calcutta’s (Kolkata’s) first Anglical Cathedral ~

St. John’s Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Built by architect James Agg the St. John’s church is built with a combination of brick and stone and was commonly known as the “Pathure Girja” (Stone Church). St. John’s was built in the lines of St.Martin’s in the fields, London. The St. John’s Church contains beautiful marble bass relief work. wood curving, stain glass and paintings including Zoffani’s famous Last Supper.

The land for the St. John’s Church was donated by the Maharaja Nabo Kishen Bahadur the founder of the Shovabazar Raj Family. The foundation stone was laid by the laid by Warren Hastings, the Governor General of India on 6 April 1784.

The St. John’s church compound, which was once a graveyard, contains several graves and memorials including the grave of Job Charnock, considered as the founder of the city.

More on St. John’s Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Portuguese Church (1799)

~ Cathedral Church of the Calcutta (Kolkata) Catholics ~

Portugese Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Historical evidences indicate that the Portuguese arrived in Calcutta (Kolkata) much before Job Charnok, but the present Portuguese Church at Calcutta (Kolkata) dates back only to 1799 more than a hundred years after Charnok’s arrival.

Dedicated to Rosary Virgin Mary, the Portuguese Church serves as a Cathedral Church for the Catholic Christian’s of Calcutta (Kolkata). Built in typical Catholic style the Portuguese Church comes in with a beautifully decorated triangular pediment, flanked on either side by two domed towers and an extended portico with arched entrance way.

The inside of the Portuguese Church in Calcutta (Kolkata) is equally well decorated with long corridors crowned with arches. The walls contain 14 coloured tablets depicting the cross station of Christ. The Church also contains several beautiful stained glass depicting the life of Christ. It also contains a small but elegant pipe organ.

More on Portuguese Church, Calcutta (Kolkata).

St. Andrew’s Church (1818)

~ First and Only Scottish Church of Calcutta (Kolkata) ~

St. Andrew’s Church (Kirk), Calcutta (Kolkata)

Located at the very heart of the city of Calcutta (Kolkata) the St. Andrew’s Church (or Kirk) is one of Calcutta’s (Kolkata’s) most well known landmark. Located next to the red coloured Gothic building the white coloured St. Andrew’s Church creates a striking contrast.

The handsome Grecian building of the Church of Scotland was opened for public worship on March 8, 1818. Like the St. John’s Church it was designed in the lines of St.Martin’s in the fields, London. Occupying a prominent position in Dalhousie Square, directly facing Old Court House Street, the Church with its tall massive spire formed one of the familiar features of the city. The white spire is crowned with a blck weather cock, which operates to this day. On the North and South there are elegant porticoes with lofty Doric pillars.

The Kirk Session, led by the Reverend Bryce, having decided to finish the Church in style, laid the floor with marble, completed the spire, erected a railing and improved the approaches. An organ was installed, a clock fitted in the tower in 1835 and the original organ replaced by a much finer one in 1858.

St. Paul’s Cathedral (1847)

~ Anglican Cathedral of Calcutta (Kolkata) ~

St. Paul’s Cathedral, Calcutta (Kolkata)

The building was initiated by Bishop Daniel Wilson in 1839 and was completed in 1847, in Gothic Revival style with stained glass windows and two frescoes in Florentine Renaissance style. A military engineer, Major William NairnForbes, designed the cathedral with the assistance of C. K. Robinson, modelling the tower and spire upon the Norwich Cathedral. The tower was rebuilt along the lines of Bell Harry Tower in Canterbury Cathedral following the 1934 Calcutta earthquake.

The cathedral conforms to the Neo-Gothic or the Gothic Revival style of architecture that was greatly patronized by the British during the days of the colonial era. The main cathedral hall is large, with beautifully carved wooden pews and chairs along with the stained glass window to the west, the intricate coloured artwork covering the eastern walls, the two marvelous Florentine frescoes. The church is 247 ft. in length and 81 ft. in width and the tower is 201 ft. high. The Cathedral is set within huge grounds with several ancient trees.

The interior of the church is a feast for the eyes, with excellent floral designs on the walls. Beautiful architecture and exquisite mural painting captivates the beholder. The life and work of St. Paul is vividly described in pictures. Bishop Wilson lies in his eternal slumber in a coffin inside an underground chamber. The commission plate conferred on him by Queen Victoria is still exhibited here.

St. James’ Church (1868)

~ Jora Girja – Church with the twin spire ~

St. James’ Church (Jora Girja), Calcutta (Kolkata)

The original St. James Church of Kolkata (Calcutta) dates back to 1823 and was located in the Nebotola Lane, near Amherst Street.

The present building, sandwiched between the St. James’ and Pratt Memorial School, of the St. James’ Church dates back to 1868 and was designed by the East Bengal Railway Architect Walter B Granville, who also designed the Kolkata High Court, GPO and Calcutta University Senate Hall (the last one no longer exists).

Built in Gothic style the St. James’ Church or the Jora Girja is one of Kolkata’s elegant churches, with pointed Gothic arches on both its exterior and interior. The twin spires, one of which contains a clock, is joined by a beautiful triangular pediment. The interior contains a long passageway leading to the alter.

But the star attraction of the St. James’ Church is the beautifully decorated black mahogany wood work at the ceiling. Something so durable, that even the termites of Kolkata have spared it for 146 years.

More on St. James’ Church (Jora Girja), Calcutta (Kolkata)

St. Mary’s Church (1887)

~ Bangali Cathedral ~

St. Mary’s Church (Bangla Cathedral), Kolkata (Calcutta)

St. Mary’s Church was constructed in 1889 and is popularly known as the Bangla Cathedral, as large number of its member belong to the Bengali Protestant Christan community.

The concept of the Bengali Cathedral dates back to July 1885, when  Rev. Harihar Sandel, a pioneer missionary started worshipping in the Cathedral with a few Christian employees. It was later decided to build up a separate church for their worship. He acquired the land and mobilize fund for the construction of a church for the Bengali Protestant.

Sadly Rev. Harihar Sandel (Sanyal) died on 4 Sept. 1887 when his dream church was yet to open its doors. The St. Mary’s Church (Bangali Cathedral) finally opened its door on 16 Feb. 1889, under Rev. Aghore Nath Banerjee. Rev. Aghore Nath Banerjee later became the Canon of St. Paul’s Cathedral.  He was the first Indian to receive this distinction.

The interior of St. Mary’s Church contains beautiful stained glass and several marble memorial plaques written in flowing Bengali font. Today the St. Mary’s Church stands on the Elgin Road (Lala Lajpat Rai Sarani) opposite the Bhawanipur Education Society College.

More on St. Mary’s Church (Bangali Cathedral), Calcutta (Kolkata)

Greek Orthodox Church (1925)

~ Formally the only Greek Orthodox Church of India ~

Greek Orthodox Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

The Greek Orthodox Church located next to the Kalighat Tram Depot looks more like a Greek Temple than a Church. Oficialy known as the  Transfiguration of the Saviour Church, this is one of Calcutta’s (Kolkata’s) newest church and was constructed only in 1925.

However the first Greek Orthodox Church of the city dates back to 1781 (some other source puts the date at 1752) and was replaced by the present structure in 1925.

The Greek Orthodox Church was closed down in 1960s due lack of Greek Orthodox Christan in the city but it was  reopened in 1990s with the initiative of some Greek Orthodox priest. Today the church members consists of mainly converted Bengali Greek Orthodox Christians. In the last few decades several other Greek orthodox Churches have been opened in the districts of West Bengal.

Inside the church the floors are marble and the pews are wood and the three huge chandeliers are like brazen chrysanthemums turned upside down. The altar of polished wood with painted panels is well preserved.

These paintings on canvas depict Christ after his transfiguration, Jesus and his apostles and Virgin Mary and the archangels Gabriel and Michael wielding swords. St Catherine is painted in one corner.

More on the Greek Orthodox Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Note:

• This is a compilation article and is not exhaustive. It would be updated from time to time.
• The Churches of Calcutta (Kolkata) are arranged in chronological order.
• The article is restricted to historic churches only.

St. Mary’s Church (Banglai Cathedral), Kolkata (Calcutta)

St. Mary’s Church, Kolkata (Calcutta)

Banglai Cathedral

Also see my compilation of Calcutta (Kolkata) Churches

St. Mary’s Church (Bangla Cathedral), Kolkata (Calcutta)

It was a winter Sunday morning Prasanta (da) Banerjee lead me inside the St. Mary’s Church. The Sunday Mass was already on and a choir was being sung, strangely the language seemed Greek to me. As I settled down on the beautifully carved bench of the the St. Marys Church, I realised that the language was my very own mother tongue  Bengali. But in the dimly lit environment of the Church Bengali appeared totally out of the world.

It has been a couple of months I have been in touch with my on line friend Prasnta Banerjee, a Bengali Protestant Christian, who in a very short span of time became my “beloved dada.” Prasanta da personal invited me to the church not only to attend the Sunday Mass but also to photograph its interiors.

As the Mass progressed my eyes got adjusted to the dimly lit interiors of the church. The beautifully wood carved alter crowned with a intricately decorated stained glass attracted my attention. The alter was also flanked by two stained glass windows on either side, each depicting Biblical events.

My attention shifted toward the walls lined with marble memorials, to mu utter astonishment I found many of the memorials curved out in Bengali. No wonder the St. Mary’s Church is popularly known as the “Bangli Cathedral.”

Bengali Memorial, St. Mary’s Church, Kolkata (Calcutta)

The concept of the Bengali Cathedral dates back to July 1885, when  Rev. Harihar Sandel, a pioneer missionary started worshipping in the Cathedral with a few Christian employees. It was later decided to build up a separate church for their worship. He acquired the land and mobilize fund for the construction of a church for the Bengali Protestant.

Sadly Rev. Harihar Sandel (Sanyal) died on 4 Sept. 1887 when his dream church was yet to open its doors. The St. Mary’s Church (Bangali Cathedral) finally opened its door on 16 Feb. 1889, under Rev. Aghore Nath Banerjee. Rev. Aghore Nath Banerjee later became the Canon of St. Paul’s Cathedral.  He was the first Indian to receive this distinction.

Today the St. Mary’s Church stands on the Elgin Road (Lala Lajpat Rai Sarani) opposite the Bhawanipur Education Society College.

Stained Glass, St. Mary’s Church (Bengali Cathedral), Calcutta (Kolkata)

The Mass was soon over and Prasanta Da introduced me to Rev. Sukhendu Biswas, the present Canon of St. Marys Church, who immediately gave me the permission to shoot inside the church. Armed with my camera I headed for the beautiful alter flanked with the even more beautiful stained glasses.

Sunday Mass, St. Mary’s Church (Bangali Cathedral), Kolkata (Calcutta)

Soon I shifted my attention to the marble memorials, and a memorial located very next to the alter attracted my attention. Written in English and followed by Bengali it was a memorial dedicated to Rev. Harihar Sandel (Sanyal).

As I moved towards the main entrance the memorial of Rev. Aghar Nath Banerjee, but unlike Rev. Harihar Sandel (Sanyal), it was written in English only. Next to Rev. Aghore Banerjee’s memorial lies a beautiful ,written in beautiful flowing Bengali font, dedicated to the father & daughter duo of Lukswarup Chandra Singh and her daughter Grace Khemankari.

Finally it was time for home. I bade good bye to Rev. Sukhendu Biswas, Prasanta da and all the other church members and returned with memories to last a life time.

Special Thanks:

Rev. Sukhendu Biswas, Prasanta (da) Banerjee and the entire community of St. Mary’s Church, Kolkata.

St. James’ Church (Jora Girja), Calcutta (Kolkata)

St. James’ Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Jora Girja, Church with the twin spires

Also see my compilation of Calcutta (Kolkata) Churches

Jota Girja is an important bus – stop on the Lower Circular Road (Presently AJC Bose Road). The name originated from the twin spires of the St. James Church.

St. James’ Church, Kolkata (Calcutta) and the foundation stone

Exterior decoration, St. James’ Church, Calcutta

The original St. James Church of Kolkata (Calcutta) dates back to 1823 and was located in the Nebotola Lane, near Amherst Street. The foundation of the church was laid in 1820 by the first Bishop of Calcutta T F Middleton. The church was open to public by the Bishop Heber in 1823.

But the church had serious construction errors and soon started developing cracks and chunks of masonry soon started crushing down. The church authority were forced to close down the church in 1855.

The present building, sandwiched between the St. James’ and Pratt Memorial School, of the St. James’ Church dates back to 1868 and was designed by the East Bengal Railway Architect Walter B Granville, who also designed the Kolkata High Court, GPO and Calcutta University Senate Hall (the last one no longer exists).

Interior Design, St. James’ Church, Calcutta

Built in Gothic style the St. James’ Church or the Jora Girja is one of Kolkata’s elegant churches, with pointed Gothic arches on both its exterior and interior.

The twin spires, one of which contains a clock, is joined by a beautiful triangular pediment. The interior contains a long passageway leading to the alter.

But the star attraction of the St. James’ Church is the beautifully decorated black mahogany wood work at the ceiling. Something so durable, that even the termites of Kolkata have spared it for 146 years. But the termites haven’t spared the wooden floor of the second level. With the church crumbling again the parishioners finally decided to give it a face-lift.

Kolkata based conservation architect Manish Chakraborty was assigned the job of restoring the 146 year old St. James’ Church. The beautifully restored church was handed over to the parishioners of 11 December 2011. I was specially invited by Manish Chakraborty to photograph the St. James’ Church on the eve of the hand over.

Special Thanks:

• Mr. Manish Chakraborty, conservation architect.

Reference :

• Swasat Kolkata by Nishitranjan Roy

List of my Blog entries on Calcutta (Kolkata)

St. John’s Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

First Anglican Church of Calcutta (Kolkata)

Also see my compilation of Calcutta (Kolkata) Churches

Located at the North – Western corner of the Governor House (Raj Bhavan) lies the St. John’s Church. Built in 1787 St. John’s Church is the third oldest church in Calcutta (Kolkata) only next to the Armenian and the Old Mission Church. St. John’s Church served as the Anglican Cathedral of Calcutta (Kolkata) till 1847 when it was transferred to St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Built by architect James Agg the St. John’s Church is built with a combination of brick and stone and was commonly known as the “Pathure Girja” (Stone Church). It was built in the lines of St.Martin’s in the fields, London.

The St. John’s Church contains beautiful marble bass relief work. wood curving, stain glass and paintings including Zoffani’s famous Last Supper.

Foundation Stone of St. John’s Church

The land for the St. John’s Church was donated by the Maharaja Nabo Kishen Bahadur the founder of the Shovabazar Raj Family.

The foundation stone was laid by the laid by Warren Hastings, the Governor General of India on 6 April 1784.

Inside the St. John’s Church:

• Memorial to James Achilles Kirkpatrick, The White Mughal
• Memorial to James Pattle and his wife
• Zoffany’s last Supper

Memorial to James Achilles Kirkpatrick, The White Mughal:

Memorial to James Achilles Kirkpatrick, The White Mughal

James Achilles Kirkpatrick, the central character of William Dalrymple best selling work of history White Mughals died in Calcutta on 15 October 1805 at the age of 41. He was buried at the North Park Street Cemetery. Sadly the neither his grave nor the cemetery exists to this day.

But James’ father, popularly known as the Handsome Colonel, along with his brothers erected a memorial in memory of James Achilles Kirkpatrick on the southern wall of the St. John’s Church, where it stands to this day.

 Memorial of James Pattle and his wife:

Memorial to James Pattle and his wife

It is not only William Dalrample’s characters of history who have nade it to the walls of St. John’s Church in Calcutta (Kolkata), but the memorial of Dalrample’s great great grandfather also finds its place in the walls of the church.

According to Dalrample “Seven generations of my family were born in Calcutta, there are three Dalrymples sitting inside St John’s graveyard. And a great-great-grandfather’s plaque is on the St John’s Church wall, James Pattle.”

“James Pattle was known as the greatest liar in India. A man supposed to be so wicked that the Devil wouldn’t let him leave India after he died. Pattle left instructions that when he died, his body should be shipped back to Britain. So, after his demise (in 1845) they pickled the body in rum, as was the way of transporting bodies back then. The coffin was placed in the cabin of Pattle’s wife and the ship set sail from Garden Reach. In the middle of the night, the corpse broke through the coffin and sat up. The wife had a heart attack and died.”

“Now both bodies had to be preserved in rum. But the casks reeked of alcohol and the sailors bored holes through the sides of the coffins and drank the rum… and, of course, got drunk and the ship hit a sandbank and the whole thing exploded, cremating Pattle and his wife in the middle of the Hooghly! That’s why you see a plaque on the wall and not a grave in the graveyard of my great-great-grandfather.”

Zoffany’s Last Supper:

Zoffany’s Last Supper

On the walls of the St. John’s Church hung a Leonardo style Last Supper. Painted by Johan Zoffany (1734 – 1810) the painting is not a exact replica of Leonardo’s master piece. Zoffanay rather gave an Indian touch to the historic Biblical event.

The top left hand corner of the painting shows a sword, which represents a common peon’s tulwar. Water ewer standing near the table is a copy of Hidustani spittoon and next to it lies a water filled beesty bag (a goat skin bag used for storing water).

But the greatest feature of Zoffany’s Last Supper lies in the selection of model used by Zoffany to represent Jeasus and his twelve disciples.

• Jesus: Greak priest Father Parthenio
• John: W.C.Blacquiere the police magistrate of Calcutta during 1780s. The effeminate police officer was a master in adopting female disguises.
• Judas: William Tulloh, an auctioneer.

Incidentally John of Joffany’s Last Supper also look feminine enough to produce another Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code.

Zoffany’s Last Supper has recently been restored by Renate Kant, a german painting conservator based in Singapore.

This photo shows the conserved photo after it was put on display on 3 July 2010.

The St. John’s Church compound also contains several other monuments including:

• Job Charnock’s Tomb
• Black Hole Monument
• Rohila War Memorial
• Lady Canning Memorial
• Francis (Begum) Johnson’s grave

Job Charnock’s Tomb

Job Charnock’s tomb & his Epitaph

On August 24, 1690 an ambitious trader, Job Charnok, of the British East India Company landed in the village of Sutanuti (present day North Calcutta) never to return. Although Charnock died two years later, but he combined the three villages of Sutanuti, Govindopur & Kolikata to form the city of Calcutta.

The octagonal Moorish style tomb was erected by Charnock’s son in law Charles Ayer. Built of stones brought all the way from South India, which later came out to be known as Chranockite.

The grave also contains the body of Charnock’s wife and several other people.

The Epitaph of Charnok’s grave is in latin. The English translation is given below.

In the hands of God Almighty, Job Charnock, English knight and recently the most worthy agent of the English in this Kingdom of Bengal, left his mortal remains under this marble so that he might sleep in the hope of a blessed resurrection at the coming of Christ the Judge. After he had journeyed onto foreign soil he returned after a little while to his eternal home on the 10th day of January 1692. By his side lies Mary, first-born daughter of Job, and dearest wife of Charles Eyre, the English prefect in these parts. She died on 19 February AD 1696–7.

Black Hole Memorial:

Black Hole Memorial

The Calcutta Black Hole is one of the most controversial events of India history. According to the British account, during the seize of Calcutta Siraj ud – Daulah took 146 prisoner and confined them in a room measuring 14 feet by 8 feet and locked them up overnight. Only 23 survived, the rest 123 perished of suffocation and heat stroke.

John Holwell a survivor, who later became the Governor of Bengal, left this account. John Holwell even went on to build a memorial at the site of the Black Hole (present day GPO).But the Indian historians have objected to Holwel’s theory of Black Hole. It is believed that the the British resident escaped through a secret tunnel to the banks of the Hogghly. from where they were carried off to Madras by an awaiting ship. According to R C Majumdar ‘Holwell story is completely baseless and can not be considered reliable historical information.’

The story of the Black Hole Monument is no less interesting. Holwell is said to have erected a monument at the site of the Black Hole tragedy. But somewhere in 1822 the monument disappeared only to be rebuild by Curzon in 1901 at the South – West corner of Writers Building. During the height of independence movement in 1940 the British were forced to remove the Black Hole Monument to the compound of St. John’s Church, where it stands to this day.

The octagonal obelisk styled memorial contains the names of 123 people who are said to be “killed” in the Calcutta Black Hole.

Rohilla War Memorial:

Rohilla War Memorial

Rohilla War (1772 – 74) was fought between the Rohillas and the Nawab of Oudh, with the British backing the later. Rohillas are a branch of the Pashtun tribe of the Pakistan and Afghanistan border. Some of the Rohillas settled in the Oudah region and soon a conflict began between the Rohillas and the Nawab of Oudh, Shuja – ud – Daula. This resulted in Rohilla War.

The British backed the Nawab of Oudh and finally on January 1774 the Rohilla chief Hafez Ruhmet was killed resulting in the defeat of the the Rohillas. A treaty in October 1774 brought the dispute to a close. With their power somewhat restricted the Rohillas continued to live in their territory of Rohilkhand, which still exists in the state of Uttar Pradesh.

The Rohilla Memorial at the St. John’s Church compound consists of a circular dome supported by 12 pillars. The memorial contains a plaque with the names of several British Military Officers, killed in the Rohilla War.

Lady Canning Memorial:

Lady Canning’s memorial

Charlotte Canning (1817 – 1861) was the wife of Charles Canning the Governor General and Viceroy of India. She died of malaria and was burried in Barrackpore (Barrackpurthe)a memorial was also constructed in the St. John’s Church graveyard.

Lady Canning name have been made immortal by the famous sweet maker Bhim Nag, who specially designed the sweet Pantua in her honor and named it Ladykeni.

Lady Canning’s elaborately decorated memorial lies on the Northern corridor of the St. John’s Church.

Francis (Begum) Johnson’s grave:

Francis (Begum) Johnson’s Grave

Located at the far end of the St. John’s Church complex and next to Job Chranok’s tomb lies the beautiful circular temple like tomb of Francis Johnson (1725 – 1812). The grave stone inside the beautiful grave is no less interesting than the grave itself.

Fransis Johnson (popularly known as Begum Johnson), the grand old lady of Calcutta, lived up to a age of 89 and married four times. The epitaph makes an interesting reading, as its describes the entire life of Fransis Johnson, with details of his four husband and their respective children.

References:

• An Artist’s Impression by Desmond Doig
• Swasat Kolkata by Nishitranjan Roy
• 10 Walks in Calcutta by Prosenjit Dasgupta
• Jaywalkers Guide Calcutta by Soumitra Das
• “Wicked man on the Wall” by Samhita Chakraborty Lahiri, The Telegraph
• White Mughal by William Dalrymple
• My Personal Website

List of my Blog entries on Calcutta (Kolkata)