Maluti, Rebirth of a Temple Town

Maluti

Rebirth of a Temple Town

Located in the Dumka District of Jharkhand the non descriptive village of Maluti houses several temple with intricate art work.

Cluster of Temples, Maluti

Baj Basanta

Legend, Myth and a bit of History

Family Tree of Baj Basanta

It was during  the reign of Alauddin Hussan Shah of Gour (1495 – 1525) and the sultan has camped in the nearby area about 500 years back. It was during the camp the Begum lost his favorite pet hawk (baj). A young local orphan farmer by the name of Basanta captured the bird and returned it to the queen. The sultan was so impressed that as a token of gratitude he gifted several acres of tax free land to Basnata, marking the beginning of Nankar (tax free) kingdom and Basanta came to be known as Baj Basanta.

Baj Basant’s great grand son Rajchandra was defeated by the King of Rajnagar in a battle and was brutally murdered. His four sons shifted the capital to Maluti in about 1680 and started living separately.

The house of Rakharchandra, the eldest son, came to be known as Rajbari (house of the king). The second son Prithvichandra’s house was called the Madhyam Bari (house of the second). Ramchandra, who like his brother got one – fourth share, and was called Sikir Bari (house of one – fourth share). The fourth and last son Madhavchandra had six sons, so his house came to be known as Chhai Taraf (house of six). The four sons build several temples converting the non descriptive village into a temple town.

Gopaldas Mukherjee (Batu da)

The Lone Crusader

“Whoever comes to Maluti, Batuda takes him around, tells him some fabulous stories about each temple. He knows the temples brick by brick”

Satish Tyagi, former deputy director archaeology, Jharkhand

Gopaldas Mukherjee (Batu da)

The 72 out of the 108 temples of Maluti stands to this day. They have survived due to the efforts of a single man Gopaldas Mukherjee (locally known as Batu da). The 82 years old Batu da have been a custodian of the Maulti temples for over half a century. It is only due to the efforts of this gentleman the temples of Maluti have survived and are presently being conserved by the Government of Jharkhand.

Gopaldas Mukherjee the retired school teacher and ex air-force soldier have not only saved the temples from destruction but also documented the history of the village. He has written several books on Maluti in Bengali, Hindi and English.

His Bengali books include “Devbhumi Maluti,” “Bajer Badale Raj” and “Nankar Maluti.” His English book “Temples of Maluti” is all set to be published. His Hindi works include a booklet titled “Guptakasi Maluti.”

Maluti

My Personal Travelogue

Although Maluti is located in Dumka District of Jharkhand but it is best approachable from Rampurhat in Birbhum district of West Bengal. Although no regular autos are available from the Rampurhat station one has to book a auto to visit the temples of Maluti.

Cluster of Temples, Maluti, Dumka, Jharkhand

The highlight of the auto ride is an amazing shortcut along a abandoned second world War (WWII) airstrip. The towering sentinel like temples welcomed us into the village of Maluti. Batu da himself welcomed us into the village and volunteered to give us a temple tour.

Mahisasuramardini. Maluti

The temples of Maluti are distributed in four clusters, belonging to the four great great grandsons of Baj Basanta. The first cluster belongs to the Madhyam Bari. The second and third clusters are clubbed together and belong to the Rajbari and Sikir Bari. The fourth and last cluster belong to Chhai Taraf.

Apart from these there are several other scattered temples along with a few new temples, including the newly constructed abode of Goddess Mauliksha, after whom Maluti gets its named.

Ramayana in Arch Panel, Maluti

Most of the temples of Maluti follow the char – challa (four sloped roofs) form of architecture, however there are a few flat roof temples and a single pinnacle temple. But the star attraction of Maluti temple is its intricate terracotta. Some scholars have opined that the intricate designs are not terracotta but curved out of a sandstone called phool pathar, but several others, including Gopaldas Mukherjee, consider it as terracotta (burnt clay).

As the experts argue over finer issue we decide to explore the temple town of Maluti. We started with the first cluster consisting of several temples, known as Madhyam Bari, with intricate carvings. The temples are approached by a single arched entrance with is crowned by a war scene between Ram and Ravan. This scene is found in several temples all over Maluti, but they are not replicas. Each differ from the other for example Ravana is seen to mount a chariot or sporting decorative foot wears while Hunuman carries Ram on his shoulder. Another common panel is that Durga in Mahisasuramardini poster flaked with her children in traditional style. This panel is normally found above the arch panel in almost all the temples of Maluti.

Durga with her children, Maluti

Our next stop was the second combined cluster of Rajbari and Sikir Bari, approachable by a complex maze of lanes. This is the largest of the clusters and contains several temples of different shapes and sizes, including a roofless hexagonal Rasmancha. In one of the temples the Ram – Ravan scene in the arch panel is replaced with a beautiful Mahisasuramarini panel.

Chariot, Maluti

Finally we made our way again through a complex networks of lanes and bylanes to the last of the cluster, known as Chhai Taraf. Consisting of a few scattered temples on either side of the road. All the temples follow the char chala structure and are decorated with beautiful terracotta carvings.

Finally it was time for home and we returned with a signed copy of Gopaldas Mukherjee’s book “Nankar Maluti” and with memories to last a life time and dreams to return again.

Necessary Information:

Getting There: Rampurhat is the nearest railhead. Gandevata Express is the best option. There are no regular transport from Rampurhat. Auto needs to be reserved from Rampurhat for the Maluti trip. The journey (one way) takes an hour via a shortcut through an abandoned Second World War highway. Aprox. Cost is Rs400, subject to bargain, for the whole trip.

Places to stay: Maluti can be covered in a single day from Kolkata. There are no places to stay in Maluti. Hotels are available in Rampurhat. The trip can be clubbed with the popular pilgrimage of Tarapith.

Places to eat: Maluti has no eateries. Basic food is available in Rampurhat.

Sribati ~ West Bengal’s Hidden Terracotta Gem

Sribati, Katwa, Burdwan

West Bengal’s Hidden Terracotta Gem

Once upon a time a family from far of Gujrat migrated the entire length of the country to settle near the present day town of Katwa in Burdwan district. Belonging to the trader class they soon exhaled in trade & commerce.

Sribati Temple Complex (Left: Bishwashwar, Centre: Bholanath Right: Chandaneshwar)

Their huge barges sailed up and down the Hooghly and it’s tributaries and distributaries carrying merchandise from far off lands. In a very short span of time the Chandra family earned enough to build themselves a huge mansion, and several temples dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Sribati Terracotta

But the good old days of the Chandra family didn’t last long. With the river changing courses frequently, the river trade ceased to exist and the Chandra family’s fortunes fell faster than it grew. The mansion and the temples are still there reminding one of the glorious days of river trade of Bengal. Sadly the mansion is all in ruins and some of the temples have reconstructed and they neither resemble the beauty and grace of its original counterpart. Strangely three of the temples have survived the test of time and neglect. The temple with its richly curved terracotta panels reminds on of the glorious days of Bengal architecture and well be your next weekend gate way.

For the most comfortable journey it is best to take the Kamrup Express to Katwa. You will be in Katwa by late evening and check in one of the numerous hotels in station area. Next morning, after a heavy breakfast, head for the bus terminus. The bus terminus is located next to the railway station. Take a bus to Singhi More (Crossing) and from there swap buses to head for Sribati. The combined journey takes little less than an hour and do tell the conductor to drop you at the desired destination.

Ships on Sribati Terracotta

As you get down from the bus you will find yourself in the midst of agricultural fields with a narrow dirt road leading towards the village of Sribati. The road initially passes through the lush green paddy fields and then meanders into the village, going past mud houses, the reconstructed temples, the Chandra’s mansion and finally to the temple complex housing the terracotta wonders.

The complex consists of three Shiv temples. The center one is a pancha – ratna temple (five spires, with one each at the four corners and one at the center), it is flanked on both side by two Deul (with tall towering spire) temples. The right hand one stands on an octagonal base and the left consists of a square base. The central temple houses the white Shivalinga of Bholanath. The octagonal and the square temple respectively contain the black Shivalingas of Chandaneshwar and Bishwashwar respectively.

Sribati Terracotta

The star attraction lies on the outer walls of these two hundred year old temples. Every square inch of the walls of the temple are intricately curved with terracotta panels, depicting scenes of barges floating down the river, European soldiers, ladies with swords peeping out of windows, musicians playing musical instruments and many more scenes from day to day life.

Sadly there is no blue board declaring it as a “Monument of National Importance.” But the villagers are extremely friendly and you can well get some one from the Chandra family who will be glad enough to explain the history of the temples and their family.

Before you head home don’t forget to pay a visit to the Durga Dalan of the Chandras, where Durga Puja is still being held.

Durga, Sribati Terracotta

Necessary Information:

Getting There: Kamrup Express. Howrah (d17:35) Katwa (a20:53). Fare Rs60. Katwa – Kurchi More (Bus, Time 45 minutes, Fare Rs6). Kurchi More – Sribati (Bus, Time 15 minutes, Fare Rs3).

Places to stay & eat: The station and bus stand area in Katwa has several hotels with basic facilities.

Getting Back: There are no express trains from Katwa in the afternoon. So the only option is to take a local. Katwa. Howrah Local. Katwa (d15:00) Howrah(a19:30). Katwa Sealdah Local. Katwa (d15:55) Sealdah (a20:20). Fare Rs25.

Note: Rates discussed here are as on April 2010.

Rajrajeshwar Temple ~ Kotalpur, Hooghly

~ Unusual Terracotta Panels ~

Rajrajeshwar Temple ~ Kotalpur, Hooghly

The Parsis leave their dead bodies for the vulture to eat but for the Hindus vultures have always been considered as a symbol of misfortune and bad luck. So the image of vultures is the last thing you expect to see on the walls of a Hindu temple but the Rajrajeshwar Temple, in the remote village of Kotalpur, have a distinction of housing several images of vultures. One of the terracotta panels on the temple walls shows two vultures feasting on a human corpse and several other panels show vultures in different postures.

Bengal is known for its terracotta temples. Starting from temple complex Bishnupur to the temples of Aatpur, Bansberia, Guptipara and Kalna West Bengal has the distinction of housing some of the finest terracotta works in the world. But apart from these well known temples West Bengal is also home to hundreds of lesser known terracotta temples scattered in the remote villages of South Bengal. Kotolpur, in the Jangipara block of the Hooghly district, is one such village which has the distinction of housing one such terracotta temple.

Triple Arch Panel, Rajrajeshwar Temple ~ Kotalpur, Hooghly

Haripal is Kotalpur’s nearest railhead and for the most comfortable journey it is best to take the morning Tarakeshwar Local. From Haripal station a bus journey takes you past Jangipara to the village of Sitapur. Get down at Sitapur Bazar and follow the meandering village roads to the temple of Rajrajeshwar.

Vultures on Terracotta, Rajrajeshwar Temple ~ Kotalpur, Hooghly

The huge aat – chala temple is in bad shape and is over grown with trees. The roots have made their way deep into the structure and have developed deep cracks. The base of the temple is also covered with weeds making access to the temple almost impossible. The temple has long been abandoned and is infested with bats and possibly snakes.

Miraculously the front face of the temple, entirely covered with intricate terracotta, has survived the test of time and can still be admired to this day. Sadly the temple contains no foundation plaque so nothing is known about the construction date and the name of the founder. But historian Narendranath Bhattacharya puts the year of construction in 1694 in his book “Hooghly Jela r Purakirti” but no mention is made about the name of the founder.

Terracotta, Rajrajeshwar Temple ~ Kotalpur, Hooghly

The central panel of the triple arched entrance contains terracotta panels depicting the scenes of the Ramayana War, with Ram & Lakshman fighting against the ten – headed Ravana and an oversized Kumbhakarna.  A decorative wheel at the centre adds to the beauty of the central arch panel.

The base panels contain elaborate images of Krishnalila, royal processions and ships & boats. The strange panel of the vultures feeding on the human corpse lies on the lower part of the right arch panel. Slightly above lies the twin panels of Kali & Durga. But Kali is dressed in a sari, which is unusual in Hindu mythology.

Close up of central arch panel

It has been more than a year that the temple has been taken over by the West Bengal State Archeology but there are no traces of conservation and maintenance effort.

Incidentally Kotalpur had another similar terracotta temple. Located next to the Rajrajeshwar Temple, this 1774 built temple was recently been brought down and replaced with a modern looking temple. Hope the State Archeology Department would prevent the Rajrajeshwar Temple from following the footsteps of its neighbor.

Necessary Information:

Getting There:Tarakeshwar Local. Howrah – Haripal (1 hour, Rs10, 45 km)

Haripal – Sitaputr bus (1 hour, Rs12)

Sitapur – Kotalpur (20 minutes walk)

Places to Eat: Haripal has some basic eateries, it is best to carry food & water.

Note: Cost given are as on 2010.

Reference:

• Hooghly Jelar Purakirti by Narendranath Bhattacharya

Mahabharata on Bengal Terracotta

~ A compilation of Mahabharata panel in Bengal Terracotta ~

See also: Mahaisasuramardini on Bengal Terracotta

The two great epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata represents the real perspective of the Indian philosophy of life and is considered as the phenomenal history of men, gods, spirits, demons, social and political space, time, truth, law, austerity, usage, purities, sins, evils and finally wisdom of the people of the great sub continent. Both the epics have shown astounding vitality not only in the years of political dominance of the Hindus, but also in the days of invasion, and assimilation of alien people and their cultures.

For over two thousand years the Ramayana and Mahabharata has been influencing deeply the religious and moral thoughts as well as literacy and artistic production in India. The exotic terracotta Temple of Bengal (West Bengal and Bangladesh) are no exceptions.

The walls of the Bengal terracotta temple are dotted with stories from the two great epics but strangely Ramayana panels far out number the panels from Mahabharata.

Swayambara of Draupadi

Choto Taraf Temple, Hadal – Narayanpur, Bankura

Swayambara of Draupadi, Choto Taraf Temple, Hadal Narayanpur

Hadal and Narayanpur are twin villages approachable from Bishnupur via Sonamukhi. Three branches of the erstwhile Mandal zamindar family(Borotaraf, Mejotaraf and Chototaraf) erected huge mansions and intricate terracotta temples, many of these have survived the test of time and can be seen to this day.

The naba – ratna (nine pinnacled) church like temple belonging to the choto taraf of the Mandal family in Hadal – Narayanpur probably has the distinction of housing the most spectacular Mahabharata panel in the whole of Bengal.

The central arch panel of the triple arch entrance of the temple contains a spectacular panel from the epic Mahabharata showing Arjuna striking the target of the eye of fish at the Swayambara of Draupadi.

Duryodhana and Arjuna waiting for Krishna to wake

Gopinath Temple, Dasghara, Hooghly

Gopinath temple is Dasghar, Hooghly is considered to be the most preserved terracotta temple in the whole of West Bengal. Built in 1729 the Pancha – ratna (Five Spire) temple has some of the finest terracotta curving in West Bengal.

Duryodhana and Arjun waiting for Krishna to wake, Gopinath Temple, Dasghara

One of these panels shows Duryodhana and Arjun waiting for Krishna to wake up for the mobilising support of Krishna for Kurukshetra war. Duryodhana is seen siting on a chair near Krishna’s head while Arjuna sits on the floor near Krishna’s feet.

Arjuna in Battle of Kurukshetra

Duttapara Temple, Joypur, Bankura

Arjuna in battle of Kurukshetra, Joypur

Located about 15 km west of Bishnupur the non – descriptive village of Joypur contains two spectacular terracotta temples. The Damodar temple belonging to the Dutta family contains intricate terracotta carvings including two panels from the Mahabharata.

The left arch panel of the triple arch entrance on the Eastern side contains a panel from Mahabharata. It shows the four-armed Krishna (Vishnu) as the charioteer of Arjuna who is fighting another warrior, probably Karna, in the battle of Kurukshetra.

Arjuna Fighting Bhishma, with Shikhandi in front

Kestorai (Jor Bangla) Temple, Bishnupur

Ketorai Temple, popularly known as the Jor Bangle Temple, is one of the most well known terracotta temple of West Bengal. It contains at least three panels from the epic of Mahabharata, most of which are located on the side panels.

Arjuna fighting Bishma, with Shikhandi in front, Jor Bangla Temple, Bishnupur

One of the panels shows the battle between Arjuna and Bhishma. It shows Arjuna, charioted by Shikhandi, who replaced Krishna, fires a volley of arrows towards Bishma. On the other hand Bishma, considering Shikhandi as a women, puts his weapon (bow) down.

Bhishma’s Bed of Arrows (Sarashajya)

Jor Bangla (Bishnupur) and Damodar Temple (Joypur)

Bhishma in bed of arrows (Sarashajya)

Bishma’s bed of arrows or Sarashajya is probably the most common terracotta Mahabharta panel. Several temple contains this panel including the Kestorai (Jora Bangla) Temple of Bishnupur and the Damodar Temple of Joypur, both in Bankura district of West Bengal.

In the case of Kestorai (Jora Bangla) Temple the panel is located on the side panel while in Damodar Temple it is located on the top most pinnacle. Both shows Bhishm lying in the death bed of arrows, at the Kurukshetra battle ground with Arjuna feeding him with divine water derived through his powerful arrow from Ganges for the tranquility of his soul.

Club Duel of Bhima and Duryodhana

Kestorai (Jor Bangla) Temple, Bishnupur

Ketorai Temple, popularly known as the Jor Bangle Temple, is one of the most well known terracotta temple of West Bengal. It contains at least three panels from the epic of Mahabharata, most of which are located on the side panels.

Bhima Duryodhana Club Duel, Kestori (Jor Bangla) Temple, Bishnupur

One of these panels shows the duel between Bhima and Duryodhana with club as exclusive weapon, at the very fag end of the Kurukshetra war.

Notes:

• This is a compilation entry and is not exhaustive, but it would be updated from time to time.
• Krishnalila, lovemaking of Krishna, a important character of the epic Mahabharata has not been included.

Reference:

• Temple art of late Medieval Bengal by Nihar Ghosh

Mahisasuramardini on Bengal Terracotta

~ A compilation on Mahisasuramardani panels on Bengal Terracotta Temples ~

See also: Mahabharata on Bengal Terracotta

Mythology presents goddess Durga as the genius of destruction springing into existence on occasion to fight out destroy the evil forces jeopardising the values and virtues of the earth and also posing threats to god’s creation.

Mahisasurmardini, one of the most popular form of goddesses Durga, is described as a slayer of the bull – shaped monster Mahisasur, who challenged the ocean and the Himalayas. Mahishasur is said to be like a roaring cloud and regarded as a Danava and Asura. Mahishasur was like a storm capable of defeating the in battle, till such time goddess caused his slain.

The most popular form of Durga appearing on on Bengal Terracotta Temple is the episode of slaying the buffalo demon (Mahishasur). Durga riding her vehicle, lion is mostly accompanied by her daughters and sons, namely Lakshmi, Saraswati, Kartik and Ganesh.

The Mahisasuramardini motif is common on many of the late medieval brick temples of Bengal, irrespective of the worshiped deity to which the temple belongs.

Pratapeswar Temple

~ Ambika Kalna, Burdwan ~

Located on the west bank of the Bhagirathi, Ambika Kalna (popularly known as Kalna) once flourished as a prosperous port town. It reached it’s pinnacle of glory during the late 18th century under the patronage of the Maharajas of Bardhaman, who built several magnificent temples with intricate terracotta ornamentation. The maritime trade has long stopped and Kalna has lost the status of a flourishing port city, but the temples are still there reminding one of Kalna’s glorious past.

Pratapeswar Temple, Ambika Kalna, Burdwan

One of the star attraction of Ambika Kalna is the Pratapeshwar Temple, with its elegant shape and rich terracotta ornamentation. Built in 1849 in Deul (Spire) style the temple contains terracotta plaques depicting themes of Hindu epic, mythical life of Sree Chaitanya and various aspects of day to day life.

The panel of Dyrga in Mahisasuramardini form appears on the side wall atop the arch. The panel is flanked on either side by Ram and Ravan engaged in war against each other.

More information on the temples of Ambika Kalna.

Bisheshwar Temple

~ Sribati, Burdwan ~

The non – descriptive village of Sribati, in Katwa in Burdwan district has the distinction of housing some spectacular terracotta temples of West Bengal. The small temple complex in Sribati belongs to the Chandra family and houses three small temples, namely Bholanath, Chandaneswar and Bisheshwar. Exterior walls of the three temples contain intricate terracotta works.

Bisheshwar Temple, Sribati, Burdwan

The Mahisasuramardini Durga panel is located above the false arched entrance on the back side of the Bisheshwar Temple.

More information on the temples of Sribati.

Durga Temple

~ Bali Dewanganj, Hooghly ~

Bali Dewanganj in the Armabagh sud – division of the Hooghly houses a unique Durga Temple. Built in a combination of Jor – Bangla and Naba – Ratna style the temple is a one of a kind in the whole of West Bengal. The Mahisasuramardini Durga panel is located above the tripple arched entrance and is flanked on left side by the panels of Lakshmi and Ganesh on the right by Saraswati and Kartik. Each of the panels are embedded in stucco art representing small temples.

Durga Temple, Bali Dewanganj, Hooghly

The Durga Temple complex in Routpara, Bali Dewanganj houses several other temples but most of them are at the verge of collapsing. There are other ruined temples scattered all over Bali Dewanganj.

More information on the temples of Bali Dewanganj.

Radhagobinda Temple

~ Aatpur (Antpur), Hooghly ~

There are interesting stories about the origin of the name Aatpur. According to some Aatpur was named after the jamindar Atar Khan while other believe the Aatpur is a combination of eight villages of Bhuri Shreshtha kingdom and hence the name Aatpur (or Antpur).

Built in 1787 the Radahagobinda Temple was constructed by Krishnaram Mitra, the Dewan of Maharaja of Burdwan. The temple was constructed during an important transition period of Bengal history. This period marked the end of Muslim rule and the beginning of European era. The terracotta panels reflect this transition. Apart from traditional panels showing images of Gods & Goddesses, scenes from Ramayana & Krishnalila it also houses a vast number of panels showing European lifestyles. European soldiers with bayonet mounted guns and hunting scenes with dogs are abundant on the walls of the temple.

Radhagobinda Temple, Antpur (Antpur), Hooghly

An elaborate Mahisasuramardani Durga panel complete with Lakshmi, Saraswati, Kartik & Ganesh on the central pillar is the prime attraction of the temple.

More information on Aatput (Antpur).

Ramchandra Temple

~ Guptipara, Hooghly ~

Ramchandra Temple, Guptipara, Hooghly

Guptipara is home of Bengal’s first community Durga puja, the place where Bengali sweets graduated from makha sandesh (sandesh mixture) to gupo sandesh (a variety of sandesh pieces), the birth place of legendary folk singer Bhola Moira and last but not least spectacular temples.

Guptipara temple complex housing four Vaishnava temples — Chaitanya, Brindabanchandra, Ramchandra and Krishnachandra — which offer an interesting mix of Bengal’s temple architecture.

Only the Ramchandra Temple contains terracotta. The ekratna (single pinnacled) Ramchandra Temple was constructed in late 18th century by Harishchandra Roy, the king of Seoraphuli. It may be called the most elegant temple in the complex. The single-storey temple with an octagonal turret contains rich terracotta work on the walls and the turret. The carvings depict war scenes from the Ramayana, royal processions, voyages and glimpses of everyday life.

The severely damaged Mahisasuramardini Durga panel is located near the base panel and also contains Ganesh, Kartik, Lakshmi and Sarswati.

More information about Guptipara.

Rajrajeswar Temple

~ Kotulpur, Hooghly ~

Rajrajeswar Temple, Kotolpur (Hooghly)

The huge aat – chala Rajrajeswar Temple, in Kotulpur is in bad shape and is over grown with trees. The roots have made their way deep into the structure and have developed deep cracks. The base of the temple is also covered with weeds making access to the temple almost impossible. The temple has long been abandoned and is infested with bats and possibly snakes.

Miraculously the front face of the temple, entirely covered with intricate terracotta, has survived the test of time and can still be admired to this day. Sadly the temple contains no foundation plaque so nothing is known about the construction date and the name of the founder. But historian Narendranath Bhattacharya puts the year of construction in 1694 in his book “Hooghly Jela r Purakirti” but no mention is made about the name of the founder. Just above the right arch of the triple entrance is the panel of Mahisasuramardini Durga.

Sridhar Temple

~ Sonamukhi, Bankura ~

Sonamukhi is located 36 km north of Bishnupur. The star attraction of Sonamukhi is the Sridhar Temple. Built in Panchabinsati Ratna (25 Pinnacled) style the temple not only follows an unique style but also houses some of the most beautiful and intricate terracotta art of West Bengal.

Sridhar Temple, Sonamukhi, Bankura

Located in the Madan Gali, near the chowrasta of Sonamukhi, the Sridhar Temple was constructed in 1845 by Kanai Rudra, a weaver. Presently the ownership of the Sridhar Temple is with the Gangully family. The Sridhar Temple has terracotta on all four sides but almost three of its sides are badly encroached. Sadly the temple is in an utter stage of neglect and need immediate professional conservation.

The Mahisasuramardani Durga panel, also includes Ganesh, Lakshmi, Sarswati and Kartick is located on the side face just above the right arch of the triple arch entrance.

Mandal Family Temples and Rshmancha

~ Hadal – Narayanpur, Bankura ~

Hadal and Narayanpur are twin villages approachable from Bishnupur via Sonamukhi. Three branches of the erstwhile Mandal zamindar family(Borotaraf, Mejotaraf and Chototaraf) erected huge mansions and intricate terracotta temples, many of these have survived the test of time and can be seen to this day.

Radha Gobinda Temple, Hadal Narayanpur (Mejotaraf), Bankura

The naba – ratna (nine pinnacled) temple of Radha Damador, of Mejotaraf contains a fantastic Mahisasuramardini Durga panel above the central arch of the triple arch entrance. The figure is flanked on either side by Rama (sadly Rama’s figure is missing) and Ravana engaged in battle with backdrop depicting the fight between Rama’s monkey soldiers with Ravana’s demon soldiers.

The Radha Damodar Temple  of the Mejotaraf , with its long slender pinnacles, represents more of a church than a temple. The left arch panel of the triple arch entrance contains a unique Mahasasuramardini Durga panel.  It shows Hunuman, the monkey god carrying Mahisasuramardini Durga over his head with Rama and Lakshman sitting on his soldier.

Left: Radha Damodar Temple, Chototaraf; Right: Rashmancha, Borotaraf, Hadal – Naranpur, Bankura

The 17 pinnacled Rashmancha of Borotaraf in Hadal – Narayanpur contains a terracotta panel on top of each of its eight arches. One of this contains a spectacular Mahisasuramardini Durga panel complete with Ganesh, Lakshmi, Sarswati and Kartik.

Girigobordhan and Sridhar Temple

~ Kotulpur, Bankura ~

Kotulpur the non – descriptive village in the Bankura district houses several temples and huge mansions.

Girigobardhan Temple, Kotolpur, Bankura

Sridhar Temple, Kotolpur, Bankura

The Bhadrapara of Kotulpur has the largest concentration of temples. The five pinnacled Girigobordhan Temple, has a unique structure and contains beautiful stucco work along with intricate terracotta panels.

The Mahisasuramardini panel of the Girigobardhan Temple is located on the centre of the main arch panel and is flanked on the left by separate panels of Lakshmi and Ganesh and similarly on the right by Sarswati and Kartik.

The naba – ratna (nine – pinnacled) Sridhar Temple is located inside the Bhadra family mansion courtyard. The front face of the temple, with a triple arched entrance, is elaborately decorated by intricate terracotta.

Position of the Mahisasuramardini Durga panel in the Sridhar Temple is similar to that of the Girigobardhan Temple. It also contains the panels off Lakshmi, Sarswati, Ganesh and Kartik but sadly they are severely damaged.

Maluti Group of Temples

~ Maluti, Dumka, Jharkhand ~

Although Maluti lies in the state of Jharkhand the temples of Maluti fall under the Bengal School of Architecture and can well be considered as Bengal Terracotta Temples.

Maluti Mahisasuramardini Durga, a compilation of three arch panels

Legend says that a young shepard named Basanta returned the pet Hawk of Alauddin Hussan Shah of Gaur. As a token of gratitude, the king gifted him the tax free land of Nankar. Since he got a kingdom in exchange for a hawk, Basanta came to be known as Baj Basanta.

Mahisasuramardini Durga, Maluti, Dumka, Jharkhand

Baj Basanta was a able ruler and his decedents followed his footsteps, turning Nankar into a prosperous kingdom with Maluti as its capital. Over the centuries several temples were built, turning into a temple town.

The village of Maluti once housed 108 Shiva Temples out of which 72 exists to this day. It is only due to the efforts of ex – military man and school teacher Gopaldas Mukherjee, who have been protecting and restoring the temples of Maluti over over half a century.

Several of the 72 existing temples of Maluti contains a freeze of Mahisasuramardini Durga above the arch panels. The Mahisasuramardini panel is flanked on both sides by seperate panels of Lakshmi, Ganesh and Sarswati, Kartik.

War scenes between Rama and Ravana from the epic Ramayana is the most common panel in most of the arch panels of the Maluti Temples. But one cahr – chala temple contains a spectacular Mahisasuramardini panel in the arch panel.

Notes:

• This is a compilation article and the compilation is not exhaustive. It would be updated from time to time.

Gokulchand ~ Stone temple

Gokulchand Temple, Gokulnagar

~ Fortified Stone Temple ~

Stone has always been in short supply in the vast flood plains of Bengal. Hence the architects had to restore to other substitute. As clay was easily available the burnt clay bricks soon became a good substitute of stone. This gave rise to a new form of temple architecture and lead to the construction of elaborately decorated terracotta temples giving Bengal a place in the world tourist map.

Gokulchand Temple and natmandir, Gokulnagar

Although numerous brick terracotta temples dot the entire Gangatic West Bengal but they are not the only form of temple architecture. Stone temples do exists in West Bengal and are mainly concentrated in the western region of the state and adds a new dimension to Bengal Temple Architecture.

Gokulchand Temple through the arch of Natmandir, Gokulnagar

Probably the grandest of these few Bengal stone temples is the Gakulchand Temple of Gokulnagar. Located only a few kilometer from the spectacular terracotta temples of Bishnupur this laterite stone temple is considered as the largest stone temple of Bankura District.

Gakulnagar is a railhead on the proposed Bishnupur – Tarakeshwar line. Tracks have already been laid and the Gukulnagar Station building modeled as the Gokulchand Temple has already been constructed. But the trains are yet to operate so it is best to hire a car from Bishnupur. The journey takes about an hour.

The 64 feet high pancha – ratna (five pinnacled) temple is flanked by a natmandir and the entire 23,500 sq. ft. temple complex is surrounded by a high wall, giving the impression of a fort rather than a temple. An arched gateway leads to the temple complex.

Gokulchand Temple (Front View), Gokulnagar

The central pinnacle of the panch – ratna temple is octagonal in shape while the four pinnacles at the corners are smaller in size and square in shape. The temple has verandas on three sides, each with a triple arched entrance, and circumambulatory path goes round the temple. The Idol of Lord Krishna has long been removed from the temple and is housed in Bishnupur, only to brought back on the occasion of Holi and Rash. Photo of the idol is all that is worshiped today.

The Eastern & Southern faced has stone sculpture in low relief. Although heavily eroded, by centuries of wind & rain, the sculptures of Dos Avatar & Krishnalila can still be seen. Sadly the foundation plaque has been heavily eroded and its content has become illegible, but according to experts the Gakuleswar temple was constructed by the Malla King Raghunath Simha I in 1643.

Arched gateway, Natmandir, Gokulchand Temple, Gokulnagar

On the southern end of the temple lies the Natmandir, whose roof has long collapsed. Covering a larger area than the temple, the Natmandir has a triple arched entrance facing the temple and a single arched entrance marks the two sides.

The first systematic efforts of the restoration of the Gokulchand Temple dates back to 1923 when Rakhaldas Bondopadhyay, of Mohenjodaro fame, visited the temple complex. But sadly it was only in 1996 the Archeological Survey of India (ASI) took over the temple and declared it a Monument of National Importance.

During this long period of neglect the Gokulchand Temple has seen very bad days. Large quantities of stones have been removed by contractors for construction of roads and buildings. Today the looting has stopped but the complex is still littered with stone slabs reminding one of the horrifying days of plunder.

Reference:

• Next weekend you can be at … Gokulnagar by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata dated 16 Jan, 2011
• Jewels of West Bengal – District of Bankura – Temples, Terracotta and Handicrafts

Related links from my blog:

• Beyond Bishnupur ~ Stone and Brick Temples

Beyond Bishnupur ~ Brick and Stone Temples

Beyond Bishnupur

Brick and Stone Temples

Stone has always been in short supply in the vast flood plains of Bengal. Hence the architects had to restore to other substitute. As clay was easily available the burnt clay bricks soon became a good substitute of stone. This gave rise to a new form of temple architecture and lead to the construction of elaborately decorated terracotta temples. The terracotta art reached its pinnacle under the patronage of the Malla Kings of Bishnupur during the seventeenth century. The temples are still there turning Bishnupur into one of the most favored tourist spot in West Bengal.

But the tourist attraction of Bishnupur are not restricted to Bishnupur alone. Several non – descriptive towns and villages, located within 50 km radius of Bishnupur, have the distinction of housing some of the spectacular terracotta and stone temples of the state.

So next time in Bishnupur don’t give this places a miss.

Joypur

Terracotta Temples

Terracotta, Vishnu Temple, Joypur

Located just 15 km east of Bishnupur the non – descriptive village of Joypur houses some of the finest specimen of terracotta art. It was during the 18 – 19^th century few families of the village took advantage of the cloth trade with the British and made a fortune. They acquired land and became zamindars and built fantastic temples. De and Dutta family were two such families and they still have a temple standing in the courtyard of their decapitated family mansion.

The Damodar Temple of the Dutta family and Vishnu temple of De family are built in naba ratna (nine pinnacles) style and are approached by a triple arched entrance from the Northern and Eastern side. Sadly the temples are in bad shape and are in desperate need of professional restoration. Read more…

Reference:

• Next weekend you can be at … Jaypur by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata dated 3 July, 2011
• Joypur (Aishee)

Gokulnagar

Stone Temple

Gokuchand Temple, Gokulnagar

Although numerous brick terracotta temples dot the entire Gangatic West Bengal but they are not the only form of temple architecture. Stone temples do exists in West Bengal and are mainly concentrated in the western region of the state and adds a new dimension to Bengal Temple Architecture.

Probably the grandest of these few Bengal stone temples is the Gakulchand Temple of Gokulnagar. Located only a few kilometer from the spectacular terracotta temples of Bishnupur this laterite stone temple is considered as the largest stone temple of Bankura District.

The 64 feet high pancha – ratna (five pinnacled) temple is flanked by a natmandir and the entire 23,500 sq. ft. temple complex is surrounded by a high wall, giving the impression of a fort rather than a temple. An arched gateway leads to the temple complex. Read more …

Reference:

• Next weekend you can be at … Gokulnagar by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata dated 16 Jan, 2011.

Kotulpur

Mansions and Terracotta

Cluster of Temples, Kotulpur

Kotulpur is located about 38 km south – east of Bishnupur and contains some fine terracotta temples along with large mansions. The Bhadra family of Kotulpur made a fortune trading with the British and constructed palatial mansions and large number of temples. Although in ruins the mansions and few of the temples still stands reminding one of the glorious days of Kotulpur.

The Girigabardhan temple is the star attraction of Kotulpur. The panch – ratna (five pinnacled) temple follows the girigobardhan style and looks like a boulder. The Sridhar temple contains intricate terracotta works. Kotulpur also has a 17 pinnacled Rashmancha and 9 pinnacled Dolmancha.

A detailed article on Kotulpur will be coming soon in my blog.

Sonamukhi

Terracotta at its best

Terracotta, Sridhar Temple, Sonamukhi

Sonamukhi is 36 km from Bishnupur. The town was mentioned in the 17th century manuscript of Deshaabali – bibriti, written by Jaganmohan as a village of tanti (weavers). Sonamukhi, meaning gold faced is named after the ancient village deity of “Swarnamukhi.” The temple of Devi Swarnamukhi, although modified into a moden structure, can still be seen in Sonamukhi.

But the star attraction of Sonamukhi is the Sridhar Temple. Built in Panchabinsati Ratna (25 Pinnacled) style the temple not only follows an unique style but also houses some of the most beautiful and intricate terracotta art of West Bengal.

Located in the Madan Gali, near the chowrasta of Sonamukhi, the Sridhar Temple was constructed in 1845 by Kanai Rudra, a weaver. Presently the ownership of the Sridhar Temple is with the Gangully family. The Sridhar Temple has terracotta on all four sides but almost three of its sides are badly encroached. Sadly the temple is in an utter stage of neglect and need immediate professional conservation.

Sonamukhi also houses several other temples and religious structure but sadly most of them have been reconstructed into modern structures and in the process wiping out centuries of intricate terracotta art.

A detailed article on Sridhar , Sonamukhiwill be coming up soon in my blog.

Reference:

• Sridhar Temple of Sonamukhi, Bankura by Dr. Asis K. Chatterji

Hadal – Narayanpur

Terracotta and Mansion

Mandal Mansion, Hadal Narayanpur

Hadal and Narayanpur are twin villages approachable from Bishnupur via Sonamukhi. Three branches of the erstwhile Mandal zamindar family erected huge mansions and intricate terracotta temples, many of these have survived the test of time and can be seen to this day.

During the reign of Malla King Gopal Singha (1720 – 1752) Muchiram Ghosh came in Hadal – Narayanpur and with the help of Subhankar Das, a member of the royal court, settled down and started his business. Muchiram Ghosh made a fortune by dealing with neel (indigo) and received the title of Mandal.

Muchiram Ghosh built several temples and mansions and his desendents followed his footsteps turning the non – descriptive village into a temple town.

A detailed article on Hadal – Narayanpur will be coming soon in my blog.

Reference:

• Next weekend you can be at Hadal – Narayanpur by Amitabha Gupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata, 31 Oct. 2010.
• Hadal – Narayanpur, the little known heaven of Terracotta Art by Dr. Asis K. Chatterji

Dihar

Ruined Twin Temples

Sareswar and Saileswar Temples, Dihar

Located 8km from Bishnupur, on the Bishnupur – Sonamukhi highway, the village of Dihar houses two ruined but majestic temples. Both the temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva and are known as Sareswar and Saileswar. A Nandi Bull guards the entrance of Sareswar Temple.

Built in 1346 by the Malla King Pritvi Malla, the temples follow the Oriya Deul style. The towering spires of both Sareswar and Saileswar have long collapsed, but they still commands majestic presence. The Temple contains beautiful floral and geometric stucco work. Read more…

Reference:

• Next weekend you can be at … Dihar by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata, 17 Aug., 2008

Dharapat

Temple of the Naked God

Jain Tirthankar, Dharapat

Dharapat is located 11 km north of Bishnupur, on the Bishnpur – Ajodhya highway. A plastered laterite Oriya style Deul temple is the main attraction of Dharpat. The temple is complete with flying lions, signifying Oriya influence. Built in 1701 by King Advesh of Dharapat the temple contains images of naked Jain Tirthankar on its outer walls, hence the name Nangta Thakur er Mandir (Temple of the Naked God).

According to historian Amiya Banerjee, the deul like structure was actually a Jain Temple which may have been converted into a Hindu Temnple. Today the inner sanctum of the temple is empty and the temple is abandoned.

The temple contains four stone panels on its four walls. The Eastern wall contains a massive panel of Vishnu, complete with two men flying above Vishnu’s head and two women at his feet. The other three sides contains naked images of Jain Tirthankars. Dharapat also contains a temple complex housing of 10 smaller Deul styled temples.

A detailed article on Dharapt is coming soon in my blog.

Reference:

• Next wekend you can be at … Dharapat by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata dated 12 Oct., 2008

Bahulara

Towering Deul Temple

Siddheshwar Temple, Bahulara

Located 14 km from Bishnupur, near the Ondagram railway station, Bahulara has the distinction of housing on of the oldest and unique temples in the whole of West Bengal.

The brick built Oriya deul style Siddheshwar Temple dates back to the 11th century. The temple stands on a base measuring 30 feet by 27 feet and towers to a height of 64 feet.

Nothing much is known about the Siddheshwar Temple and absence of a dedicatory plaque have kept the historians in the dark. Mr Beglar of ASI in 1972 describes the Siddheshwar Temple of Bahulara as the “The bet in this district and if not the largest but brick – built temple.”

A corbeled arch leads to the inner sanctum of the Siddheshwar Temple contains images of Ganesh, Durga and a Jain Tirthankar. The Southern side of the temple complex houses scattered remains of dilapidated stupas.

A detailed article on Bahulara is coming soon in my blog.

Reference:

• Next wekend you can be at … Bahulara by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata dated 20 April, 2008

General Reference:

• Jewels of West Bengal – District of Bankura – Temples, Terracotta and Handicrafts

Note:

• Two days are required to cover the above mentioned places.
• A car is absolutely necessary
• Day1: Joypur, Gokulnagar and Kotulpur (Rs1000 aprox. in an Ambasador)
• Day2: Sonamukhi, Hadal – Narayanpur, Dihar, Dharapat and Bahulara. (Rs 1500 aprox in an Ambasador)

A tribute to David McCutchion

David McCutchion

12 Aug. 1930 – 12 Jan 1972

David McCutchion’s Grave, Bhabanipur Cemetery, Kolkata

I knew it wont be easy, but when I entered the Bhabanipur Cemetery with my friend and fellow terracotta enthusiast Amitabha Gupta, I understood that it was far more difficult than I have imagined. It was like finding a needle in a bunch of haystack.

We were on the lookout for the grave of David McCutchion, famous for his pioneering work on the terracotta temples of Bengal.  Had David  McCutchion, who had succumbed to an attack of polio in Calcutta at the early age of 41 on January 12, 1972, been alive today, he would have turned 82 on August 12, 2012. Today his mortal remains lies in the Bhawanipur Cemetery in Kolkata.

Plaques on David McCutchion Grave (L: Original Epitaph, C: Reconstruction of the grave, R: 75th anniversary of McCutchion

Finding a single grave in a large cemetery is never a easy task. With almost no information about the graves location, Amitabha and I continued with a random search. Hours past with no results and we almost decided to call it a day when a grave decorated with small terracotta panels attracted our attention, and there it is – the grave of David McCutchion.

The grave is remarkable well maintained and from time to time the terracotta enthusiasts of Kolkata have paid tribute to the great man by putting up plaques in his grave. As I photographed the grave my mind flashed back at the remarkable man whose pioneering work inspired a generation of terracotta lovers, including me.

David McCutchion (Photo Courtsy: The Telegraph, Kolkata)

Soon after Independence, there arrived in Bengal a youngish, independent-minded academic from Britain, who, in spite of his pioneering work — a prodigious number of photographs and a series of writings on the terracotta Hindu temples of both West and East Bengal which he travelled extensively, patas, and Indo-Anglian literature, which was in a nascent stage then — is a forgotten name today.

In 1960 he moved to Calcutta and joined Jadavpur University as lecturer in comparative literature, and in 1964 he was promoted to the post of Reader, and thus began the most active period of his short life. Here he met Tarapada Santra, whose help he sought to decipher and interpret the plaques in terracotta temples.

Two men who often accompanied McCutchion on his tireless and unremitting quest were Tarapada Santra and Hitesranjan Sanyal, both of whom continued their research on Bengal’s built heritage and folk culture till their death. Both Sanyal and Santra addressed him as “Davidbabu”, a name not unsuited to a man who lived like a hermit and dressed at home like any middle-class Bengali in crushed pyjamas and bush shirt.

In his tribute to David McCutchion, Hitesranjan Sanyal had made an assessment of his exhaustive documentation of terracotta temples: “When David McCutchion started his work on Bengal temples there was not much information on them…. But the countless temples that were constructed all over Bengal between 15th century and early 20th century had not attracted much attention.… The material he collected is a huge repository of information — a data bank.”

Around 1960 McCutchion also met and developed an important friendship, based on a relaxed rapport, with Satyajit Ray, with whom he shared a taste for western baroque music. Ray asked him to help translate his film dialogue from Bengali into English, a task that helped inversely to increase McCutchion’s use of Bengali. It was while on shooting location in Birbhum district for Abhijan in 1962, that McCutchion developed a fascination for the brick temples scattered across the Bengal landscape. Over the next decade they became a passion; of categorising, conservation and documentation, driving his use of photography as a recording device. His photographic collection amounting to some 20,000 images (colour slides and b/w prints) was acquired by the V & A with copies held by the ‘International Centre for Study of Bengal Art (ICSBA)’. He also studied and collected the Bengali patua art, or scroll paintings of traditional artists, which developed out of the religious art surrounding the temples. This collection was later bequeathed to the Herbert Art Gallery in Coventry.

Sadly McCutchion died prematurely at the age of 42, due to an attack of polio, leaving his work on terracotta temples incomplete but in the process inspiring a generation of terracotta lovers.

List of David McCutchion’s work:

• The Temples of Bankura District (Calcutta, Writers Workshop [c1967])
• Indian Writing in English: Critical Essays (Calcutta: Writers Workshop, 1969)
• Late Mediaeval Temples of Bengal: Origins and Classification (Calcutta: The Asiatic Society, 1972)
• The epistles of David-Kaka to Plalm’n [1960-1971]: the record of a friendship (Calcutta: Writers Workshop, 1972)
• Brick Temples of Bengal: From the Archives of David McCutchion, (Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press, 1983), his research collected, interpreted and published by George Michell.
• Patuas and Patua Art in Bengal by David McCutchion and Suhrid K. Bhowmik, (Calcutta : Firma KLM, 1999).
• Unpublished Letters & Selected Articles by David J. McCutchion, (Calcutta : Monfakira Books, 2009).

Reference:

• Davidbabu’s data bank by Soumitra Das, The Telegraph, dated 10 Jan. 2010
• Wikipedia entry on David McCutchion

Palpara Brick Temple

The Archeological Survey of India (ASI) website describes it as the Palpara Brick Temple, while the locals call it the Moth Mandir, Kali Mandir or even Shiv Mandir. The seventeenth century temple has long been abundant. It is recently been restored by the ASI and declared as a Monument of National Importance.

Palpara Brick Temple

The brick built south facing char – chala temple (four sloped roofs meeting at a pinnacle) stands on a raised plinth and is believed to be built by Gandharba Roy in seventeenth century, although the foundation plaque containing necessary information like name of founder and year of foundation has long been lost. The temple standing on a square base, and crowned with the four sloping roofs, rises to a height of 21 meters.

The decorated arched entrance is flanked by two brick pillars on either side. The area above the arched entrance once contained intricately curved terracotta panels but only a few of these have passed the test of time. A few scenes from Ramayana, geometric & floral design and lotus motif are all that remains of the intricate terracotta works that once dotted the walls of the temple.

Char – chala temples are one of the earliest forms of Bengal’s Temple Architecture and only a few of these temples can be seen to this day. Later on the char – chala was modified into an aat (eight) – chala, which consists of a char – chala upon a char – chala, and thus making it the most common temple architecture of Bengal.

Terracotta arch panel, Palpara Brick Temple

59 km from Kolkata on the Sealdah – Krishnanagar rail line Palpara can be reached in one – and – half hours by local trains. Although trains are frequently available, but for the most comfortable journey it is best to take the morning train. As you walk out of the station complex ask the locals for directions and you are most likely to be directed to an active temple, with nothing much to do with history.

So it’s best to walk along the Plapara Station road to a tri – junction and then take a left turn towards Lokenath Bhavan and Durganagar Tarakdas Vidyamandir and finally to the Palpara temple. The Lokenath Bhavan & Durganagar Tarakdas Vidyamandir works as important landmarks for finding the ancient temple.

The temple is enclosed by a 5 feet (approximate) high wall and a blue board of ASI proudly describes it as a Monument of National Importance while another blue board gives the brief history and description of the temple. The complex remains locked and the caretaker is not likely to be found. So be prepared to cross over the wall into the temple complex.

Although located at the hearth of thickly inhabited locality the temple complex acts as an oasis of peace. The garden surrounding the temple is not maintained and is over grown with weeds. A narrow foot – path leads to the char – chala temple, which also remains locked and there is no way of getting into the inner sanctum of the temple.

Most of the terracotta panels on the decorated arched entrance have vanished. A panel showing Rama shooting an arrow and another showing Ravana defending it can still be seen on the temple walls. A few more war scenes, geometrical design and floral pattern have strangely passed the test of human neglect.

Although robbed of its former glory and in spite of lying in utter neglect the Palpara Temple will definitely provide you with an insight into Bengal’s early temple architecture and provide you with a Sunday morning break to enjoy rural Bengal’s lush green countryside.

Related link from my website:

• Article on Palpara Brick Temple

Ambika Kalna ~ 108 Shiva Temples

Space age view of century old temples

It was a winter Sunday morning almost a decade ago, when I desperately panned my SLR film camera (Vivitar v3800s) to shoot a panorama of the 108 Shiva Temples of Ambika Kalna. The negative and the prints still at my possession but by limited dark room knowledge was not enough to stitch up the panorama.

Panoramic view of 108 Shiva Temples, Ambika Kalna

A decade later in April 2012 I was back again at the same spot where I panned my DSLR (Nikkon D60) to shoot a 8 shot panorama of the 108 Shiva Temples of Ambika Kalna. The shots were stitched up in a matter of minutes in my digital darkroom.

It was not only the panorama that attracted my attention, the aerial  view of the 108 Shiva Temples of Ambika Kalna is on always on my “must shoot list,” but sadly it continues to remain a dream.

View Larger Map

Today Google Earth not only provide a spectacular view of the 108 Shiva Temple complex of Ambika Kalna, but also ignites my passion of shooting the temples from the air. May be one day my dream will come true.

Ambika Kalna ~ 108 Shiva Temples

Few Facts

108 Shiva Temples, Ambika Kalna

Ambika Kalna (or simply Kalna) is located 82 km from Kolkata (Howrah) on the Bandel – Katwa line. Located on the west bank of the Bhagirathi, Ambika Kalna (popularly known as Kalna) once flourished as a prosperous port town. It reached it’s pinnacle of glory during the late 18th century under the patronage of the Maharajas of Bardhaman, who built several magnificent temples with intricate terracotta ornamentation.

The maritime trade has long stopped and Kalna has lost the status of a flourishing port city, but the temples are still there reminding one of Ambika Kalna’s glorious past.

The Rajbari complex in Kalna has the maximum concentration of temples. Spread on either side of a the road the complex contains a unique mixture of Bengal’s temple architecture. On one side of the road lies the Nabakailas Temples. Built in 1809 by the Bardhaman Maharaja Tej Chandra Bahadur the complex contains 108 aat – chala (eight sloped roofed) temples arranged in two concentric circles separated by a well-maintained lawn with beautiful flowerbeds. The outer circle consists of 74 temples consisting of alternate black & white lingas while the 34 temples of the inner circle have only white lingas.

Also read my travelogue on Ambika Kalna