Mahisasuramardini on Bengal Terracotta

~ A compilation on Mahisasuramardani panels on Bengal Terracotta Temples ~

See also: Mahabharata on Bengal Terracotta

Mythology presents goddess Durga as the genius of destruction springing into existence on occasion to fight out destroy the evil forces jeopardising the values and virtues of the earth and also posing threats to god’s creation.

Mahisasurmardini, one of the most popular form of goddesses Durga, is described as a slayer of the bull – shaped monster Mahisasur, who challenged the ocean and the Himalayas. Mahishasur is said to be like a roaring cloud and regarded as a Danava and Asura. Mahishasur was like a storm capable of defeating the in battle, till such time goddess caused his slain.

The most popular form of Durga appearing on on Bengal Terracotta Temple is the episode of slaying the buffalo demon (Mahishasur). Durga riding her vehicle, lion is mostly accompanied by her daughters and sons, namely Lakshmi, Saraswati, Kartik and Ganesh.

The Mahisasuramardini motif is common on many of the late medieval brick temples of Bengal, irrespective of the worshiped deity to which the temple belongs.

Pratapeswar Temple

~ Ambika Kalna, Burdwan ~

Located on the west bank of the Bhagirathi, Ambika Kalna (popularly known as Kalna) once flourished as a prosperous port town. It reached it’s pinnacle of glory during the late 18th century under the patronage of the Maharajas of Bardhaman, who built several magnificent temples with intricate terracotta ornamentation. The maritime trade has long stopped and Kalna has lost the status of a flourishing port city, but the temples are still there reminding one of Kalna’s glorious past.

Pratapeswar Temple, Ambika Kalna, Burdwan

One of the star attraction of Ambika Kalna is the Pratapeshwar Temple, with its elegant shape and rich terracotta ornamentation. Built in 1849 in Deul (Spire) style the temple contains terracotta plaques depicting themes of Hindu epic, mythical life of Sree Chaitanya and various aspects of day to day life.

The panel of Dyrga in Mahisasuramardini form appears on the side wall atop the arch. The panel is flanked on either side by Ram and Ravan engaged in war against each other.

More information on the temples of Ambika Kalna.

Bisheshwar Temple

~ Sribati, Burdwan ~

The non – descriptive village of Sribati, in Katwa in Burdwan district has the distinction of housing some spectacular terracotta temples of West Bengal. The small temple complex in Sribati belongs to the Chandra family and houses three small temples, namely Bholanath, Chandaneswar and Bisheshwar. Exterior walls of the three temples contain intricate terracotta works.

Bisheshwar Temple, Sribati, Burdwan

The Mahisasuramardini Durga panel is located above the false arched entrance on the back side of the Bisheshwar Temple.

More information on the temples of Sribati.

Durga Temple

~ Bali Dewanganj, Hooghly ~

Bali Dewanganj in the Armabagh sud – division of the Hooghly houses a unique Durga Temple. Built in a combination of Jor – Bangla and Naba – Ratna style the temple is a one of a kind in the whole of West Bengal. The Mahisasuramardini Durga panel is located above the tripple arched entrance and is flanked on left side by the panels of Lakshmi and Ganesh on the right by Saraswati and Kartik. Each of the panels are embedded in stucco art representing small temples.

Durga Temple, Bali Dewanganj, Hooghly

The Durga Temple complex in Routpara, Bali Dewanganj houses several other temples but most of them are at the verge of collapsing. There are other ruined temples scattered all over Bali Dewanganj.

More information on the temples of Bali Dewanganj.

Radhagobinda Temple

~ Aatpur (Antpur), Hooghly ~

There are interesting stories about the origin of the name Aatpur. According to some Aatpur was named after the jamindar Atar Khan while other believe the Aatpur is a combination of eight villages of Bhuri Shreshtha kingdom and hence the name Aatpur (or Antpur).

Built in 1787 the Radahagobinda Temple was constructed by Krishnaram Mitra, the Dewan of Maharaja of Burdwan. The temple was constructed during an important transition period of Bengal history. This period marked the end of Muslim rule and the beginning of European era. The terracotta panels reflect this transition. Apart from traditional panels showing images of Gods & Goddesses, scenes from Ramayana & Krishnalila it also houses a vast number of panels showing European lifestyles. European soldiers with bayonet mounted guns and hunting scenes with dogs are abundant on the walls of the temple.

Radhagobinda Temple, Antpur (Antpur), Hooghly

An elaborate Mahisasuramardani Durga panel complete with Lakshmi, Saraswati, Kartik & Ganesh on the central pillar is the prime attraction of the temple.

More information on Aatput (Antpur).

Ramchandra Temple

~ Guptipara, Hooghly ~

Ramchandra Temple, Guptipara, Hooghly

Guptipara is home of Bengal’s first community Durga puja, the place where Bengali sweets graduated from makha sandesh (sandesh mixture) to gupo sandesh (a variety of sandesh pieces), the birth place of legendary folk singer Bhola Moira and last but not least spectacular temples.

Guptipara temple complex housing four Vaishnava temples — Chaitanya, Brindabanchandra, Ramchandra and Krishnachandra — which offer an interesting mix of Bengal’s temple architecture.

Only the Ramchandra Temple contains terracotta. The ekratna (single pinnacled) Ramchandra Temple was constructed in late 18th century by Harishchandra Roy, the king of Seoraphuli. It may be called the most elegant temple in the complex. The single-storey temple with an octagonal turret contains rich terracotta work on the walls and the turret. The carvings depict war scenes from the Ramayana, royal processions, voyages and glimpses of everyday life.

The severely damaged Mahisasuramardini Durga panel is located near the base panel and also contains Ganesh, Kartik, Lakshmi and Sarswati.

More information about Guptipara.

Rajrajeswar Temple

~ Kotulpur, Hooghly ~

Rajrajeswar Temple, Kotolpur (Hooghly)

The huge aat – chala Rajrajeswar Temple, in Kotulpur is in bad shape and is over grown with trees. The roots have made their way deep into the structure and have developed deep cracks. The base of the temple is also covered with weeds making access to the temple almost impossible. The temple has long been abandoned and is infested with bats and possibly snakes.

Miraculously the front face of the temple, entirely covered with intricate terracotta, has survived the test of time and can still be admired to this day. Sadly the temple contains no foundation plaque so nothing is known about the construction date and the name of the founder. But historian Narendranath Bhattacharya puts the year of construction in 1694 in his book “Hooghly Jela r Purakirti” but no mention is made about the name of the founder. Just above the right arch of the triple entrance is the panel of Mahisasuramardini Durga.

Sridhar Temple

~ Sonamukhi, Bankura ~

Sonamukhi is located 36 km north of Bishnupur. The star attraction of Sonamukhi is the Sridhar Temple. Built in Panchabinsati Ratna (25 Pinnacled) style the temple not only follows an unique style but also houses some of the most beautiful and intricate terracotta art of West Bengal.

Sridhar Temple, Sonamukhi, Bankura

Located in the Madan Gali, near the chowrasta of Sonamukhi, the Sridhar Temple was constructed in 1845 by Kanai Rudra, a weaver. Presently the ownership of the Sridhar Temple is with the Gangully family. The Sridhar Temple has terracotta on all four sides but almost three of its sides are badly encroached. Sadly the temple is in an utter stage of neglect and need immediate professional conservation.

The Mahisasuramardani Durga panel, also includes Ganesh, Lakshmi, Sarswati and Kartick is located on the side face just above the right arch of the triple arch entrance.

Mandal Family Temples and Rshmancha

~ Hadal – Narayanpur, Bankura ~

Hadal and Narayanpur are twin villages approachable from Bishnupur via Sonamukhi. Three branches of the erstwhile Mandal zamindar family(Borotaraf, Mejotaraf and Chototaraf) erected huge mansions and intricate terracotta temples, many of these have survived the test of time and can be seen to this day.

Radha Gobinda Temple, Hadal Narayanpur (Mejotaraf), Bankura

The naba – ratna (nine pinnacled) temple of Radha Damador, of Mejotaraf contains a fantastic Mahisasuramardini Durga panel above the central arch of the triple arch entrance. The figure is flanked on either side by Rama (sadly Rama’s figure is missing) and Ravana engaged in battle with backdrop depicting the fight between Rama’s monkey soldiers with Ravana’s demon soldiers.

The Radha Damodar Temple  of the Mejotaraf , with its long slender pinnacles, represents more of a church than a temple. The left arch panel of the triple arch entrance contains a unique Mahasasuramardini Durga panel.  It shows Hunuman, the monkey god carrying Mahisasuramardini Durga over his head with Rama and Lakshman sitting on his soldier.

Left: Radha Damodar Temple, Chototaraf; Right: Rashmancha, Borotaraf, Hadal – Naranpur, Bankura

The 17 pinnacled Rashmancha of Borotaraf in Hadal – Narayanpur contains a terracotta panel on top of each of its eight arches. One of this contains a spectacular Mahisasuramardini Durga panel complete with Ganesh, Lakshmi, Sarswati and Kartik.

Girigobordhan and Sridhar Temple

~ Kotulpur, Bankura ~

Kotulpur the non – descriptive village in the Bankura district houses several temples and huge mansions.

Girigobardhan Temple, Kotolpur, Bankura

Sridhar Temple, Kotolpur, Bankura

The Bhadrapara of Kotulpur has the largest concentration of temples. The five pinnacled Girigobordhan Temple, has a unique structure and contains beautiful stucco work along with intricate terracotta panels.

The Mahisasuramardini panel of the Girigobardhan Temple is located on the centre of the main arch panel and is flanked on the left by separate panels of Lakshmi and Ganesh and similarly on the right by Sarswati and Kartik.

The naba – ratna (nine – pinnacled) Sridhar Temple is located inside the Bhadra family mansion courtyard. The front face of the temple, with a triple arched entrance, is elaborately decorated by intricate terracotta.

Position of the Mahisasuramardini Durga panel in the Sridhar Temple is similar to that of the Girigobardhan Temple. It also contains the panels off Lakshmi, Sarswati, Ganesh and Kartik but sadly they are severely damaged.

Maluti Group of Temples

~ Maluti, Dumka, Jharkhand ~

Although Maluti lies in the state of Jharkhand the temples of Maluti fall under the Bengal School of Architecture and can well be considered as Bengal Terracotta Temples.

Maluti Mahisasuramardini Durga, a compilation of three arch panels

Legend says that a young shepard named Basanta returned the pet Hawk of Alauddin Hussan Shah of Gaur. As a token of gratitude, the king gifted him the tax free land of Nankar. Since he got a kingdom in exchange for a hawk, Basanta came to be known as Baj Basanta.

Mahisasuramardini Durga, Maluti, Dumka, Jharkhand

Baj Basanta was a able ruler and his decedents followed his footsteps, turning Nankar into a prosperous kingdom with Maluti as its capital. Over the centuries several temples were built, turning into a temple town.

The village of Maluti once housed 108 Shiva Temples out of which 72 exists to this day. It is only due to the efforts of ex – military man and school teacher Gopaldas Mukherjee, who have been protecting and restoring the temples of Maluti over over half a century.

Several of the 72 existing temples of Maluti contains a freeze of Mahisasuramardini Durga above the arch panels. The Mahisasuramardini panel is flanked on both sides by seperate panels of Lakshmi, Ganesh and Sarswati, Kartik.

War scenes between Rama and Ravana from the epic Ramayana is the most common panel in most of the arch panels of the Maluti Temples. But one cahr – chala temple contains a spectacular Mahisasuramardini panel in the arch panel.

Notes:

• This is a compilation article and the compilation is not exhaustive. It would be updated from time to time.

PHOTO PUBLICATION – V

India in the World Economy

Tirthankar Roy

Cambridge University Press

India in World Economy: Cover

Six of my photos have been published in the book titled “India in the World Economy” by Prof. Tirthankar Roy, reader in the Economic History Department of the London School of Economics and Political Science (LSE). The book have been published by the Cambridge University Press.

My photos covered a wide range of topics from terracotta temples to close up of terracotta panels, showing ocean going ships and European soldiers. From closed down Chinese restaurant and temples in Calcutta (Kolkata) to abandoned light house at the mouth of the Hooghly. Prof. Tirthankar Roy also provided me with an elaborate testimonial.

All my six photograph published comes with an elaborate narration which was also provided be me.

Prof. Thithankar Roy also mentioned my name in the preface of the book “India in the World Economy” thanking me for the photographs he has used in his book and also mentioning about my impressive collection of photographs on historical sites of West Bengal.

Second page of Preface, India in World Economy

Terracotta Panel of Ship

Rajrajeshwar Temple, Darhawta, Hooghly

Terracotta panel of Ship, Rajrajeshwar Temple, Darhawta

Most of the 18th century terracotta temples were constructed by merchants who made huge profits by trading with the British East India Company. So it is quiet obvious that boats and ships were integral part of the their temple decorations.

Many of this temples contain elaborate terracotta panels of boats and ships. The Rajrajeshwar Temple of Darhawta, in the Jangipara region of Hooghly district, is one such example. The Rajrajeshwar Temple was constructed in 1728 by Apurbamohan Singaroy. The base of the aat – chala (eight sloped roof) temple measures 24 feet by 21 feet and has a triple arched entrance. The entire front surface have intricate terracotta, but sadly most of these panels have been heavily damaged.

The base panels consists of images of boats and ships. The images  consists of merchants trading in exclusively decorated country boats and huge ocean going ships with European soldiers.

Photo Caption:

Terracotta panel on a Bengal Temple (Darhatwa) showing a ship, possibly of Indian construction.

Terracotta Panel of European Soldiers

Radhagobinda Temple, Aatpur (Antpur), Hooghly

Terracotta Panel of European Soldiers, Radhagobinda Temple, Aatpur, Hooghly

Built in 1786 Krishnaram Mitra, the Dewan of Maharaja of Burdwan, constructed the huge Radhagobinda Temple. The towering aat – chala temple has a triple arched entrance and the entire front face is covered with the finest terracotta.

The temple was constructed during an important transition period of Bengal history. This period marked the end of Muslim rule and the beginning of European era. The terracotta panels reflect this transition. Apart from traditional panels showing images of Gods & Goddesses, scenes from Ramayana & Krishnalila it also houses a vast number of panels showing European lifestyles. European soldiers with bayonet mounted guns and firing cannons are frequently spotted on the walls of the temple. Hunting scenes with dogs also abundant on the walls of the temple.

Photo Caption:

Terracotta panel from an eighteenth – century temple showing a group of Europeans carrying guns. The temple, of Radha Gobindatemple of Aatpur, is located twenty miles northwest of Calcutta.

Also read Aatpur ~ A Poem in Terracotta

Abandoned Lighthouse

Kalitala, Kulpi, Diamond Harbour

Abandoned Lighthouse, Kulpi, Diamond Harbour

Once large ships used to ply up and down the Hooghly. Several abandoned lighthouses along the banks of the Hooghly, in the Diamond Harbour region are mute witness to the glourious river trade of Hooghly.

Kalitala, in the kulpi region, near Daimond Harbour still houses one such abandoned lighthouse. oday the abandoned light house is reduced to half its original height and is located at the edge of the agricultural field. The light house is located quiet a distance from the Hooghly River.

With a circumference of about 10 feet the light house today towers to a height of about 25 feet and is built with bricks measuring 10.2  X 4.7 X 2.3 cubic inch. The structure lies in utter neglect and is totally overgrown with vegetation. The roots of the vegetation have embedded them deep in the structure and resulted in deep cracks stretching the entire length of the structure, it is a mystery that the structure still stands.

Caption:

Ruins of an eighteenth – century lighthouse located on the mouth of the Hooghly.

Also read Kulpi ~ Abondoned Lighthouse & Mysterious Grave

Toong On Church & Nanking Restaurant

Tiretta Bazar, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Closed down Chinese Temple and Restaurant, Tiretta Bazar, Kolkata

Located just off the Indian Exchange Place (Extension) and dwarfed by the towering Kolkata Telephone Kendra the beautiful two storied building once housed the Tong On Church in its first floor, while the ground floor was occupied by the famous Nanking Restaurant. Nanking Restaurant established in 1924, is considered as the oldest Chinese Restaurant in Calcutta (Kolkata).

In 1980s the Nanking Restaurant along with the Tong On Church closed its door to public due to property dispute, which continues to this day. The court order has kept the building under lock & key.

The Toong On Church today operates at Bow Street in Bou Bazar but the Nanking remains closed depriving the Calcuttans of the taste of the finest authentic Chinese food of the city.

Caption:

The brick building in the middle of the picture, which was closed because of a dispute in 1980s, is ionic to Calcutta’s Chinatown. It housed the Tong On Church on the upper floor and, on the lower floor, the Nanking Restaurant, said to be the first Chinese restaurant in the city.

Also read Chinese Temple of Tiretta Bazar and Achipur ~ Birth place of Calcutta China Town

TESTIMONIAL – I

Testimonial

From Prof. Tirthankar Roy,

Economic History Dept.

THE LONDON SCHOOL OF ECONOMICS

AND POLITICAL SCIENCE (LSE)

 

Six of my photos were selected for publication by Prof. Tirthankar Roy of the Economic History Dept. of the London School of Economics and Political Science (LSE) for his book titled “India in the World Economy” published by the Cambridge University Press.

Below is a testimonial from Prof. Roy

Testimonial from Prof. Tirthankar Roy, Economic History Dept., London School of Economics and Political Science

Here is the list of the selected six photos:

• Radhagobinda Temple, Aatpur (Antpur)
• Panel of European soldiers from Radhagobinda Temple, Aatpur (Antpur)
• Rajrajeshwar Temple, Darhawata
• Panel of Ship from Rajrajeshwar Temple, Darhawata
• Nanking Restaurant & Tong On Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)
• Abandoned Light House, Kulpi

PHOTOS OF AATPUR (ANTPUR)

Left: Radhagobinda Temple, Aatpur (Antpur). Right: Panel of European Soldiers

Built in 1786 Krishnaram Mitra, the Dewan of Maharaja of Burdwan, constructed the huge Radhagobinda Temple. The towering aat – chala temple has a triple arched entrance and the entire front face is covered with the finest terracotta. The temple was constructed during an important transition period of Bengal history. This period marked the end of Muslim rule and the beginning of European era. The terracotta panels reflect this transition. Apart from traditional panels showing images of Gods & Goddesses, scenes from Ramayana & Krishnalila it also houses a vast number of panels showing European lifestyles. European soldiers with bayonet mounted guns and hunting scenes with dogs are abundant on the walls of the temple.

PHOTOS OF DARHAWTA

Left: Rajrajeshwar Temple, Darhawta. Right: Panel of ship

The Rajrajeshwar Temple of Darhawta was constructed in 1728 by Apurbamohan Singaroy. The base of the aat – chala (eight sloped roof) temple measures 24 feet by 21 feet and has a triple arched entrance. The entire front surface have intricate terracotta, but sadly most of these panels have been heavily damaged. The base panels consists of images of boats and ships.

PHOTO OF ABANDONED LIGHT – HOUSE, KULPI

Abandoned Light House, Kalitala, Kulpi

The abandoned  light house at Kalitala village is approached from the Sam Bose bus stop in Kulpi (near Diamond Harbour) by the Military road. The unpaved road, of about 3 km, is called locally as the Military Road but their are no concrete historical evidences of the origin of the name. Today the abandoned light house is reduced to half its original height and is located at the edge of the agricultural field. The light house is located quiet a distance from the Hooghly River and is separated from the river by a series of brick kiln.

With a circumference of about 10 feet the light house today towers to a height of about 25 feet and is built with bricks measuring 10.2  X 4.7 X 2.3 cubic inch. The structure lies in utter neglect and is totally overgrown with vegetation. The roots of the vegetation have embedded them deep in the structure and resulted in deep cracks stretching the entire length of the structure, it is a mystery that the structure still stands.

PHOTO OF NANKING RESTAURANT

Nanking Restaurant & Tong On Chinese Temple

At the Chattawalla Guli of of Tiretta Bazar of Central Calcutta (Kolkata) lies a elegant two storied building.  The ground floor once housed the Nanking Restaurant. Opened in 1924 the Nanking Restaurant is the oldest Chinese restaurant in Calcutta (Kolkata) and also in India.  The first floor housed the Tong On Chinese Temple.

A property dispute in 1980s closed both the restaurant and the temple and they remain closed to this day, denying the Calcuttans of their authentic Chinese food. The Tong On Church operates from a nearby house in Bow Street in Bou Bazar.

References:

Aatpur:

• Hooghly Jelar Purakirti by Narendranath Bhattacharya
• Next weekend you can be at … Antpur by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph
• Links from my website Aatpur Travelogue

Darhawta:

• Hooghly Jelar Purakirti by Narendranath Bhattacharya

Abandoned Light – House, Kulpi:

• Dakshin 24 Pargana Jelar Purakirti by Sagar Chattopadhyay

Nanking Restaurant & Tong On Church:

• Jaywalkers Guide Calcutta by Soumitra Das
• Links from my website Chinese Temple of Old China Town, Calcutta (Kolkata)

AATPUR ~ A Poem in Terracotta

On 24^th December 1886 at Aatpur nine disciples, including Swami Vivkanada, of Shri Ramkrishna Paramhansa took the oath of leaving their families and dedicating their lives for the welfare of mankind. Today the place is marked by a memorial and every year on 24^th December devotees from far & wide come here to celebrate the historic occasion.

Radhagobinda Temple, Aatpur (Antpur)

But the history of Aatpur dates far behind the days of Ramkrishna. Exactly a hundred years before the historic event Krishnaram Mitra, the Dewan of Maharaja of Burdwan, constructed the huge Radhagobinda Temple. The towering aat – chala temple has a triple arched entrance and the entire front face is covered with the finest terracotta.

There are interesting stories about the origin of the name Aatpur. According to some Aatpur was named after the jamindar Atar Khan while other believe the Aatpur is a combination of eight villages of Bhuri Shreshtha kingdom and hence the name Aatpur (or Antpur).

Terracotta Panels from Radhagobinda Temple, Aatpur (Antpur)

Located about 50 km from Calcutta Aatpur probably has the distinction of housing Calcutta’s nearest terracotta temples.

Chandi Mandap

Although Aatpur is well connected by road and busses are available from Esplanade & Howrah, but for the most comfortable journey it is best to take the morning Tarakeshwar Local. Haripal is the nearest railhead and a short but crowded trekker ride takes you to Aatpur.

The temple was constructed during an important transition period of Bengal history. This period marked the end of Muslim rule and the beginning of European era. The terracotta panels reflect this transition. Apart from traditional panels showing images of Gods & Goddesses, scenes from Ramayana & Krishnalila it also houses a vast number of panels showing European lifestyles. European soldiers with bayonet mounted guns and hunting scenes with dogs are abundant on the walls of the temple.

Rash Mancha (left) & Dol Manch (right)

An elaborate Durga panel complete with Lakshmi, Saraswati, Kartik & Ganesh on the central pillar is the prime attraction of the temple. A panel of royal procession complete with horse drawn chariots, elephants, soldiers and musicians are bound to attract the visitors attention.

The temple complex also houses five Shiva Temples. Built in the late 18^thcentury these temples are smaller in size and lack the grace of towering Radhagobinda Temple. Three out of the five temples have only traces of terracotta. The complex also houses an octagonal Rashmancha and a square Dolmancha. Another attraction of the complex is the hay thatched wooden Chandimandap. Built by Krishnaram Mitra the mandap has intricate wood curving on its pillars and ceiling beams.

Entrance of Ramkrishna Math, Aatpur (Antpur)

Ramkrishna Moth is worth a visit. Apart from the Dhuni Mandap, the place where the historic oath taking took place, the math has several other shrines dedicated to Ramkrishna, Sarada Ma and Vivekananda. Aatpur also happens to be the home of Baburam Ghosh (later Swami Premananda), one of the nine disciples of Ramkrishna, who took the holy oath.  Several relics from the Ghosh family are also on the display. Sadly photography is strictly banned inside the Ramkrishna Moth, however photography is allowed from ouside the gate.

Reference:

• Hooghly Jelar Purakirti by Narendranath Bhattacharya.
• Next weekend you can be at … Antpur by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph
• Links from my website Aatpur Travelogue.

List of my Blog entry on West Bengal