Gokulchand ~ Stone temple

Gokulchand Temple, Gokulnagar

~ Fortified Stone Temple ~

Stone has always been in short supply in the vast flood plains of Bengal. Hence the architects had to restore to other substitute. As clay was easily available the burnt clay bricks soon became a good substitute of stone. This gave rise to a new form of temple architecture and lead to the construction of elaborately decorated terracotta temples giving Bengal a place in the world tourist map.

Gokulchand Temple and natmandir, Gokulnagar

Although numerous brick terracotta temples dot the entire Gangatic West Bengal but they are not the only form of temple architecture. Stone temples do exists in West Bengal and are mainly concentrated in the western region of the state and adds a new dimension to Bengal Temple Architecture.

Gokulchand Temple through the arch of Natmandir, Gokulnagar

Probably the grandest of these few Bengal stone temples is the Gakulchand Temple of Gokulnagar. Located only a few kilometer from the spectacular terracotta temples of Bishnupur this laterite stone temple is considered as the largest stone temple of Bankura District.

Gakulnagar is a railhead on the proposed Bishnupur – Tarakeshwar line. Tracks have already been laid and the Gukulnagar Station building modeled as the Gokulchand Temple has already been constructed. But the trains are yet to operate so it is best to hire a car from Bishnupur. The journey takes about an hour.

The 64 feet high pancha – ratna (five pinnacled) temple is flanked by a natmandir and the entire 23,500 sq. ft. temple complex is surrounded by a high wall, giving the impression of a fort rather than a temple. An arched gateway leads to the temple complex.

Gokulchand Temple (Front View), Gokulnagar

The central pinnacle of the panch – ratna temple is octagonal in shape while the four pinnacles at the corners are smaller in size and square in shape. The temple has verandas on three sides, each with a triple arched entrance, and circumambulatory path goes round the temple. The Idol of Lord Krishna has long been removed from the temple and is housed in Bishnupur, only to brought back on the occasion of Holi and Rash. Photo of the idol is all that is worshiped today.

The Eastern & Southern faced has stone sculpture in low relief. Although heavily eroded, by centuries of wind & rain, the sculptures of Dos Avatar & Krishnalila can still be seen. Sadly the foundation plaque has been heavily eroded and its content has become illegible, but according to experts the Gakuleswar temple was constructed by the Malla King Raghunath Simha I in 1643.

Arched gateway, Natmandir, Gokulchand Temple, Gokulnagar

On the southern end of the temple lies the Natmandir, whose roof has long collapsed. Covering a larger area than the temple, the Natmandir has a triple arched entrance facing the temple and a single arched entrance marks the two sides.

The first systematic efforts of the restoration of the Gokulchand Temple dates back to 1923 when Rakhaldas Bondopadhyay, of Mohenjodaro fame, visited the temple complex. But sadly it was only in 1996 the Archeological Survey of India (ASI) took over the temple and declared it a Monument of National Importance.

During this long period of neglect the Gokulchand Temple has seen very bad days. Large quantities of stones have been removed by contractors for construction of roads and buildings. Today the looting has stopped but the complex is still littered with stone slabs reminding one of the horrifying days of plunder.

Reference:

• Next weekend you can be at … Gokulnagar by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata dated 16 Jan, 2011
• Jewels of West Bengal – District of Bankura – Temples, Terracotta and Handicrafts

Related links from my blog:

• Beyond Bishnupur ~ Stone and Brick Temples

Vizag – Araku Train

~ Broad Gauge Mountain Railway ~

As our Kirandul Fast Passenger made its way through the numerous tunnels and bridges I made a desperate attempt to capture the train meandering train on my camera. Sadly my SLR camera (Vivitar v3600s) was too big to pass through the grilled window of the train.

Kirandul Fast Passenger, with Eastern Ghat in backdrop

Suddenly I noticed my wife clicking photos with her newly purchased point and shoot digital camera (Olympus Fe310). I grabbed the camera and it easily passed out of the window grill and captured the Kirandul Fast Passenger making a huge loop with the lush green Eastern Ghats in the background.

Araku Valley, viewed from Kirandul Fast Passenger

Our journey to the lush green Araku Valley started a couple of hours early from the Vizag station. We have taken the rail cum bus tour of the Araku Valley conducted by the Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC). Definitely the highlight of the journey is the remarkable train journey between Vizag and Araku.

In India most of the mountain railway runs on narrow and meter gauge. But the Vizag – Araku train exception and also has the distinction of housing the highest broad guage train station in India.

Shimiliguda Station, highest station on Vizag – Araku line

Located North West of Vizag the beautiful valley is connected by a 150 km long rail track. An engineering marvel the rail tracks meanders through the Eastern Ghats passing through 58 tunnels and 84 bridges.

The train follows the Chenni – Howrah line till Kottavalas from where it takes a left diversion towards the Eastern Ghats. After about two hours of journey through the lush green coastal plains merges into the even greener Eastern Ghats, marking the starting points of tunnels and bridges. The line meanders past lush green valleys, towering cliffs and thundering water falls, passing through several tunnels some couple of meters long while several others stretching over 100 meters. The longest tunnel has length of 520 meters.

Araku Station, journey ends

Through out the hill region of this line patrolling staffs of Indian Railway give clearance to all passing by trains as they continuously monitor the track for any land slide, tree falling or any other type of damages. The train also passes Bora Caves and a small plaque located inside the Bora Caves shows the exact point through which the rail line pass.

Most of the time valley falls in right side of the train while going towards Araku from Vizag and waterfalls remain at left side. We were lucky to get a seat on the right side thus had a opportunity of having great views of the lush green valleys but missed out on the waterfalls.

Just before reaching Araku the train stops at the Shimiliguda Station, located at a height of 996.32 feet it is the highest station on the Vizag – Araku route and formally the highest broad gauge rail station in India. I was aware of the fact and was out at the door to have a snap of the Shimiliguda station. Luckly out coach stopped straight in front of the Shimiliguda station board which not only had the station name but also the height 996.3 mts above Mean Sea Level (MSL). This time also my wife’s point and shoot digital camera came handy. We were soon in Araku station ending a memorial train journey.

Note:  Now the highest broad gauge railway station in India happens to be Qazigund (1722) meters on the Jammu – Srinagar railway.

For more information read my Vizag Araku Travelogue

Bhubaneswar ~ A Temple Town

~ A Compilation of Temples of Bhubaneswar ~

According to legend the city once housed a thousand temples, sadly many of these have crumbled to dust and many more have been reconstructed into modern structures, but the few have survived the test time and still stands to this day are worth a visit and can offer an interesting mix of pilgrimage and history.

Bhubaneswar (Temple Town) Map

The temples of Bhubaneswar are located on the Southern part, which is known as the old city and are majority of them are clustered around the Bindu Sarabor (Lake).

Rajarani Temple

~ Oriya Gem not quiet Oriya ~

Rajarani Temple, Bhubaneswar, Orissa

Rajarani is one of the few temples in Bhubaneswar whose name doesn’t end with Ishwar (God), like Mukteswar, Parasurameswar, Sideshwar, etc. The name probably originated from the red sand stone named Raja – Rani which was used to build the temple. The temple is abandoned and contains no idol at the inner sanctum.

Although considered as the finest of the Odissa architecture the Rajarani Temple differs significantly from traditional Odissa Temple style. The spires of the Rajarani Temple consists of several sub – spires, which differs significantly from the horizontal projections of the Odissa Temples.

The star attraction of the Rajarani Temple is its intricately curved exterior. From floral design to geometric patterns and from figurative images to Yakshis to Gods cover the outer wall. The striking feature of the exterior curving is the presence of female figures many of which are in erotic postures, which resembles more of the Khajuraho style. Read more…

Mukteswara Temple

~ Gem of Orissan Architecture ~

Mukteshwara Temple, Bhubaneswar, Orissa

Located at a walking distant from the Raja – Rani Temple and very close to the Bindu Sarobar is a small temple complex housing the twin temples of Mukteswara and Siddheshwara along with several other smaller temples and other religious structure.

The star attraction of the complex is the Mukteswara Temple. Architect James Furgesson, who visited the Orissa temples in 1830s said “It may be considered the gem of Orissan Architecture.”

The small Mukteswara Temple approached by an arched stone gateway, one of its kind in the whole of Orissa, and probably in the whole of the country. The gigantic decorated stone arch rests on two stumpy pillars. The arch with projected elephant heads on both sides are decorated not only with floral design but also by figurative sculptures, including female figures, monkeys and gaja – singha (a lion trampling an elephant).

Siddheshwara Temple, Bhubaneswar, Orissa

The Mukteswara Temple consisting of two parts namely Jagmohan (assembly area) and Biman, housing the inner sanctum. The jogmohan is crowned with a stepped pyramidical structure while the biman is crowned with a towering spire. The outer walls of the, 996 AD built, temple are covered with intricate curving, depicting various religious and social scenes, including stories from Pancharatna. The spire is covered with intricate geometrical & floral design with strange iconography, one of which shows two mustached women holding on to the mane of a lion. According to experts the symbol is called “Bho” and probably represents the seal of the builder.

Located in the same complex is the Siddheshwara Temple. Higher than the Mukteswara Temple and built at a later date, the Siddheshwara Temple is a classic example of Orissa temple architecture, although it lacks the grace of Mukteswara. The complex, maintained by the ASI, also contains several other minor temples, religious structure and a pond. The whole place is very well maintained with lawns, floor bed and trees.

Parasurameswara Temple

~ The seed of Oriya Temple Architecture ~

Parasurameshwara Temple, Bhubaneswar, Orissa

Just next to the Mukteswara & Siddeshwara Temple complex lies the small but elegant temple of Parasurameswara. Built in 7^th century AD this is considered as the oldest temple of Bhubaneswar. Although very small is size this 44 feet high temple is the earliest example of Orissa Temple Architecture and is considered as the seed of the mighty Kalinga Temples of Lingaraj, Puri & Konark. The temple also has beautiful decoration on its outer wall. The temple consists of two parts the Biaman and the Jogmohan, the later was constructed at a later date.

The outer walls of the Parasurameswara Temple are covered with intricate curving, depicting various religious and social scenes. The entrance of the temple is marked with a giant Shiva Linga.

Ananta Basudev Temple

~ Classic Oriya Temple Architecture ~

Ananta Basudev Temple, Bhubaneswar, Orissa

Located on the banks of the Bindu Sarabor is the mighty Ananta Basudev Mandir, approachable from Parasurameswar Temple by a narrow winding lane.

Belong to the later Hindu period, the four stage Ananta Basudev Temple consists of the Bhog Mandap (place where Bhog is distributed), Nat Mandir (Dance Area), Jogmohan (assembly area) and the Biman, housing the Garbha Griha (inner sanctum) and is a classic example of Orissa Temple Architecture. Sadly this magnificent temple is poorly maintained as dozen of priests are busy cooking the bhog at the temple complex. The shoot ejected out of the wood fire has blackened major portion of the yellow sand stones and most of the beautiful sculpture are severely damaged.

Lingaraj Temple

~ The Pinnacle of Oriya Temple Architecture ~

Lingaraj Temple, Bhubaneswar, Orissa

The area surrounding the Bindu Sarabor is dotted with numerous temples and a short walk past these temples lead to the Lingaraj Temple, Bhubaneswar’s most iconic landmark. Built it 11^th century by the Somavamsi Kings, Lingaraj is the best example of Orissa temple architecture, a school of architecture which began with the modest Parsurameswar Temple.

The huge complex also houses the temple of Parvati and several other structures. Sadly photography is strictly prohibited in the complex. An elevated platform, offering grand view of the temple complex, comes to rescue. The platform was built by Lord Curzon, for the non – Hindus to view the temple. Non – Hindus are not allowed inside the complex and the custom is practiced even today.

The huge complex also houses the temple of Parvati and several other structures. Sadly photography is strictly prohibited in the complex. An elevated platform, offering grand view of the temple complex, comes to rescue. The platform was built by Lord Curzon, for the non – Hindus to view the temple. Non – Hindus are not allowed inside the complex and the custom is practiced even today.

Vaital Deul

~ Abode of Goddess Shakti ~

Durga Panel, Vaital Deul, Bhubaneswar, Orissa

Located at a walking distance from the Lingaraj Temple, at a busy tri – junction is the Vaital & Sisereawar Temple complex. Vaital Deul is dedicated to the Goddess Shakti, and follows the khakhara style of architecture. The outer walls of the Vaital Deul contains intricate carvings, including an elaborate stone panel of eight – handed Durga in Mahisasur – Mardini posture. Vaital Deaul also contains an interesting panel of Ardhanarishawara (Half Female God).

Next to the Vital Deul is the small but elegant Sisireswara Temple, built in traditional Oriya style. The temple is dedicated to Shiva and contains some beautiful stone sculptures on its outer wall.

Note:

• This is not a exhaustive coverage of Bhubaneswar Temples
• Brahmaswara Temple, Bhaskareswara Temple, Mageswara Temple, Rameshwara Temple, Lakshmaneshwara Temple, Bharatashwara Temple, Satrugneshwara Temple and many more temples of Bhubaneswar are not covered.
• This is a compilation article and would be updated from time to time.

Reference:

• Karutirthe Kalinga by Narayan Sanyal
• Barthiya Bhaskarje  Mithun by Narayan Sanyal

Related Links from my website:

• Travel article on Bhubaneswar
• Travel article Diamond Triangle Orissa
• Bhubaneswar Photos
• Diamond Triangle Photos

List of Blog entries on Orissa

Beyond Bishnupur ~ Brick and Stone Temples

Beyond Bishnupur

Brick and Stone Temples

Stone has always been in short supply in the vast flood plains of Bengal. Hence the architects had to restore to other substitute. As clay was easily available the burnt clay bricks soon became a good substitute of stone. This gave rise to a new form of temple architecture and lead to the construction of elaborately decorated terracotta temples. The terracotta art reached its pinnacle under the patronage of the Malla Kings of Bishnupur during the seventeenth century. The temples are still there turning Bishnupur into one of the most favored tourist spot in West Bengal.

But the tourist attraction of Bishnupur are not restricted to Bishnupur alone. Several non – descriptive towns and villages, located within 50 km radius of Bishnupur, have the distinction of housing some of the spectacular terracotta and stone temples of the state.

So next time in Bishnupur don’t give this places a miss.

Joypur

Terracotta Temples

Terracotta, Vishnu Temple, Joypur

Located just 15 km east of Bishnupur the non – descriptive village of Joypur houses some of the finest specimen of terracotta art. It was during the 18 – 19^th century few families of the village took advantage of the cloth trade with the British and made a fortune. They acquired land and became zamindars and built fantastic temples. De and Dutta family were two such families and they still have a temple standing in the courtyard of their decapitated family mansion.

The Damodar Temple of the Dutta family and Vishnu temple of De family are built in naba ratna (nine pinnacles) style and are approached by a triple arched entrance from the Northern and Eastern side. Sadly the temples are in bad shape and are in desperate need of professional restoration. Read more…

Reference:

• Next weekend you can be at … Jaypur by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata dated 3 July, 2011
• Joypur (Aishee)

Gokulnagar

Stone Temple

Gokuchand Temple, Gokulnagar

Although numerous brick terracotta temples dot the entire Gangatic West Bengal but they are not the only form of temple architecture. Stone temples do exists in West Bengal and are mainly concentrated in the western region of the state and adds a new dimension to Bengal Temple Architecture.

Probably the grandest of these few Bengal stone temples is the Gakulchand Temple of Gokulnagar. Located only a few kilometer from the spectacular terracotta temples of Bishnupur this laterite stone temple is considered as the largest stone temple of Bankura District.

The 64 feet high pancha – ratna (five pinnacled) temple is flanked by a natmandir and the entire 23,500 sq. ft. temple complex is surrounded by a high wall, giving the impression of a fort rather than a temple. An arched gateway leads to the temple complex. Read more …

Reference:

• Next weekend you can be at … Gokulnagar by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata dated 16 Jan, 2011.

Kotulpur

Mansions and Terracotta

Cluster of Temples, Kotulpur

Kotulpur is located about 38 km south – east of Bishnupur and contains some fine terracotta temples along with large mansions. The Bhadra family of Kotulpur made a fortune trading with the British and constructed palatial mansions and large number of temples. Although in ruins the mansions and few of the temples still stands reminding one of the glorious days of Kotulpur.

The Girigabardhan temple is the star attraction of Kotulpur. The panch – ratna (five pinnacled) temple follows the girigobardhan style and looks like a boulder. The Sridhar temple contains intricate terracotta works. Kotulpur also has a 17 pinnacled Rashmancha and 9 pinnacled Dolmancha.

A detailed article on Kotulpur will be coming soon in my blog.

Sonamukhi

Terracotta at its best

Terracotta, Sridhar Temple, Sonamukhi

Sonamukhi is 36 km from Bishnupur. The town was mentioned in the 17th century manuscript of Deshaabali – bibriti, written by Jaganmohan as a village of tanti (weavers). Sonamukhi, meaning gold faced is named after the ancient village deity of “Swarnamukhi.” The temple of Devi Swarnamukhi, although modified into a moden structure, can still be seen in Sonamukhi.

But the star attraction of Sonamukhi is the Sridhar Temple. Built in Panchabinsati Ratna (25 Pinnacled) style the temple not only follows an unique style but also houses some of the most beautiful and intricate terracotta art of West Bengal.

Located in the Madan Gali, near the chowrasta of Sonamukhi, the Sridhar Temple was constructed in 1845 by Kanai Rudra, a weaver. Presently the ownership of the Sridhar Temple is with the Gangully family. The Sridhar Temple has terracotta on all four sides but almost three of its sides are badly encroached. Sadly the temple is in an utter stage of neglect and need immediate professional conservation.

Sonamukhi also houses several other temples and religious structure but sadly most of them have been reconstructed into modern structures and in the process wiping out centuries of intricate terracotta art.

A detailed article on Sridhar , Sonamukhiwill be coming up soon in my blog.

Reference:

• Sridhar Temple of Sonamukhi, Bankura by Dr. Asis K. Chatterji

Hadal – Narayanpur

Terracotta and Mansion

Mandal Mansion, Hadal Narayanpur

Hadal and Narayanpur are twin villages approachable from Bishnupur via Sonamukhi. Three branches of the erstwhile Mandal zamindar family erected huge mansions and intricate terracotta temples, many of these have survived the test of time and can be seen to this day.

During the reign of Malla King Gopal Singha (1720 – 1752) Muchiram Ghosh came in Hadal – Narayanpur and with the help of Subhankar Das, a member of the royal court, settled down and started his business. Muchiram Ghosh made a fortune by dealing with neel (indigo) and received the title of Mandal.

Muchiram Ghosh built several temples and mansions and his desendents followed his footsteps turning the non – descriptive village into a temple town.

A detailed article on Hadal – Narayanpur will be coming soon in my blog.

Reference:

• Next weekend you can be at Hadal – Narayanpur by Amitabha Gupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata, 31 Oct. 2010.
• Hadal – Narayanpur, the little known heaven of Terracotta Art by Dr. Asis K. Chatterji

Dihar

Ruined Twin Temples

Sareswar and Saileswar Temples, Dihar

Located 8km from Bishnupur, on the Bishnupur – Sonamukhi highway, the village of Dihar houses two ruined but majestic temples. Both the temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva and are known as Sareswar and Saileswar. A Nandi Bull guards the entrance of Sareswar Temple.

Built in 1346 by the Malla King Pritvi Malla, the temples follow the Oriya Deul style. The towering spires of both Sareswar and Saileswar have long collapsed, but they still commands majestic presence. The Temple contains beautiful floral and geometric stucco work.

A detailed article on Dihar will be coming soon in my blog.

Reference:

• Next weekend you can be at … Dihar by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata, 17 Aug., 2008

Dharapat

Temple of the Naked God

Jain Tirthankar, Dharapat

Dharapat is located 11 km north of Bishnupur, on the Bishnpur – Ajodhya highway. A plastered laterite Oriya style Deul temple is the main attraction of Dharpat. The temple is complete with flying lions, signifying Oriya influence. Built in 1701 by King Advesh of Dharapat the temple contains images of naked Jain Tirthankar on its outer walls, hence the name Nangta Thakur er Mandir (Temple of the Naked God).

According to historian Amiya Banerjee, the deul like structure was actually a Jain Temple which may have been converted into a Hindu Temnple. Today the inner sanctum of the temple is empty and the temple is abandoned.

The temple contains four stone panels on its four walls. The Eastern wall contains a massive panel of Vishnu, complete with two men flying above Vishnu’s head and two women at his feet. The other three sides contains naked images of Jain Tirthankars. Dharapat also contains a temple complex housing of 10 smaller Deul styled temples.

A detailed article on Dharapt is coming soon in my blog.

Reference:

• Next wekend you can be at … Dharapat by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata dated 12 Oct., 2008

Bahulara

Towering Deul Temple

Siddheshwar Temple, Bahulara

Located 14 km from Bishnupur, near the Ondagram railway station, Bahulara has the distinction of housing on of the oldest and unique temples in the whole of West Bengal.

The brick built Oriya deul style Siddheshwar Temple dates back to the 11th century. The temple stands on a base measuring 30 feet by 27 feet and towers to a height of 64 feet.

Nothing much is known about the Siddheshwar Temple and absence of a dedicatory plaque have kept the historians in the dark. Mr Beglar of ASI in 1972 describes the Siddheshwar Temple of Bahulara as the “The bet in this district and if not the largest but brick – built temple.”

A corbeled arch leads to the inner sanctum of the Siddheshwar Temple contains images of Ganesh, Durga and a Jain Tirthankar. The Southern side of the temple complex houses scattered remains of dilapidated stupas.

A detailed article on Bahulara is coming soon in my blog.

Reference:

• Next wekend you can be at … Bahulara by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph, Kolkata dated 20 April, 2008

General Reference:

• Jewels of West Bengal – District of Bankura – Temples, Terracotta and Handicrafts

Note:

• Two days are required to cover the above mentioned places.
• A car is absolutely necessary
• Day1: Joypur, Gokulnagar and Kotulpur (Rs1000 aprox. in an Ambasador)
• Day2: Sonamukhi, Hadal – Narayanpur, Dihar, Dharapat and Bahulara. (Rs 1500 aprox in an Ambasador)

Qutub Minar and Smith’s Folly ~ An Architectural Disaster

Qutub Minar and Smith’s Folly

An Architectural Disaster

Smith’s Folly, with Qutub Minar in the background

It is said that lightning never strikes a place twice, but tall structure like the Qutub Minar have always been exceptions. There are several records of the tower being struck by lightning and other natural calamities have taken its toll on the highest stone tower in the world. But the string of disaster has left the minar unscathed except for a slight tilt, some two feet of the perpendicular.

The first recorded lightning strike on the Qutub Minar happened in 1368, when a lightning strike severely damaged the top storey of the Qutub Minar. Sultan Firoz Shah Tughluq replaced the fallen storey with with two floors and crowned it with a cupola. The restoration also introduced white marble into the otherwise red and buff sandstone.

Sikandar Lodi also carried out some repairs on the Qutub Minar in 1503 but the nature and extent of damage is not recorded.

The next major damage happed during the earthquake of 1803. Although much lesser in magnitude than the 1368 lightning the damage was significant enough to destroy Firoz Shah’s cupola permanently.

Faced with an incomplete Minar, the then British Governor-General of India , Lord Wellesly authorized Major Robert Smith, the hitherto respected builder of the St.James’ Church, Delhi, to carry out the necessary repairs. These works were completed in 1828 at the not-insignificant sum of Rs. 17,000 of the time.

Only, Major Smith had exceeded his brief by re-inventing what he had been asked to re-create. He had replaced an Indo-Islamic cupola with a Bengali style chatthri! The glorious tower of Islamic dominance had been capped with a Hindu cupola!

The prospect was so ridiculous and the cupola so out of place, that Lord Hardinge eventually had it taken down in 1848 and placed it on the outer lawns of the Qutub Complex, where it still lies, like an impure,  adulterated crown that has fallen off the Minar’s head. It has been called Smith’s Folly ever since.

Reference:

• World Heritage Series: Qutb Minar & Adjoining Monuments (Archeological Survey of India)
• The story of Smith’s Folly

List of blog post on Delhi

Srinagar ~ Mughal Gardens

“The concept of paradise as a garden is one of mankind’s oldest ideas.The paradise promoised in the Quran consists of several terraces of gardens, each more splendid than the other.”

World Heritage Series, Humayun’s Tomb

“Inheriting the Greek love of order and logic, Islamic gardens – like their buildings – are regimented into lines of perfect symmetry; balance and design is all; nothing is left to impulse or chance.”

William Dalrymple, City of Djinns

Babar, the first of the great Mughals, introduced into India the Timurid – Persian scheme of a walled – in – garden, subdivided into four quaters by raised walkways and canals. As the Mughal empire spreads its wings into India the Mughal gardens started coming up in different parts of the country.

Obviously Kashmir, the paradise on earth, was the ideal place to built the mughal gardens, the paradise promised by the holy Quran. It was fourth Mughal ruler Jehangir, who took up the initiative of building of first Mughal Gardens of Kashmir.

Sirnagar, the present capital of the state of Jammu & Kashmir (J&K), houses three spectacular Mughal Gardens, complete with raised walkways water channels lined with fountains. Mughal Gardens of Srinagar are a prime attraction for tourist and locals alike.

Cheshma Shahi

Royal Spring

Cheshma Shahi (Mughal Garden), Srinagar, J&K

Cheshma Shahi, the smallest but most elegantof the Mughal Gardens of Srinagar, was built by the governor Ali Mardan Khan, under the patronage of Emperor Shah Jahan in 1632 – 33. Cheshma Shahi (or Royal Spring) derives its name from a water source, a spring located at the uper most terrace of the Cheshma Sahi Garden. The water of the spring is said to posses some curative properties, especially for stomach ailments.

The triple terraced Cheshma Shahi garden is strategically located and offers great view of the Dal Lake and the adjacent Jhelum Valley of Srinagar.

Shalimar Bagh

Abode of Love

Central Pavilion, Shalimar Bagh, Srinagar, J&K

The most spectacular of the Srinagar’s Mughal gardens, the Shalimar Bagh was constructed by emperor Jehangir for his beloved wife Nur Jahan. Shailmar (abode of love) Bagh follows the three terraced Mughal Garden layout with  a dimension of 587m by 251m.The first terrace housed the public garden, the second the emperor’s garden and the third and final terrace housed the zenana (harem). The Shalimar Bagh also served as a royal court, during the summer months, and houses the Diwani Amm (public audience hall) and the Diwani Khass (private audience hall).

The Shalimar Bagh is built on a flat land with four radiating arms from a central water source. The water channels are lined with fountains and are marked on both sides by chinar trees.

Nishat Bagh

Garden of Bliss

Nishat Bagh, Srinagar

Nishat Bagh (Garden of the Bliss) is the largest of the Srinagar’s Mughal Gardens. Built in 1633 by Asaf Khan, the brother of Nur Jahan the garden is not a royal garden. As Nishat Bagh is not a royal garden, its hierarchical than the other Mughal Gardens of Srinagar. Nishat Bagh has twelve terraces, each representing a zodiac.  The terrace begins from the public street level, which connects the garden’s water to Dal  Lake. The twelfth terrace is located in the zenana gardens.

A central water stream, nearly 4 meters wide and 20 centimeters deep, flows down from the top of the garden through a channel decorated with fountains and occasionally divided into fountain pools. Chadars, stone ramps engraved with wave patterns to render the flowing water more beautiful, transfer water between the various terraces. In several places, stone benches cross the axial water stream near a chadar, and serve as seating platforms for the visitor’s enjoyment.

Nishat Bagh creats a striking contrast with the Dal Lake in the foreground and the towering Zabarwan Hills in the background.

Related links from my personal website:

• Travelogue on Srinagar
• Photos of J&K

Other blog entries on Jammu & Kashmir (J&K)

Chandannagar ~ A slice of France

About 100 years after Vasco da Gama landed in the west cost of India the European traders started making inroads into Bengal. Bandel became a stronghold of the Portuguese while the Danes and the Dutch had their supremacy in Srerampur and Chuchura respectively.

Chandannagor was the French colony. Unlike the other European colonies of Bengal the French control of Chandannagar continued even after independence and it was only in 1950 Chandannagar became a part of India.

Once a beautiful town with French masons and boulevards, Chandannagar has lost most of its past glory. Today it represents a crowded unplanned town on the Howrah – Burdwan main line. A few of the French buildings have passed the test of time and can still be seen today reminding one of the French days of Chandannagar, offering a French holiday with a distinctive Bengali twist.

Left: Dupleix Palace (now museum), Right: French Fort (now court)

The largest concentration of colonial building is along the Hooghly and is known as The Strand, and is still considered as the most beautiful stretch along the entire Hooghly.

Sacred Heart Church, Chandannagar

Just off The Strand is the Sacred Heart Church, on of the prime attraction of Chandannagar. A statue of Jesus greats the visitors to the two storied church complete with twin towers. A marble plaque says that the church was inaugurated by Father Goethals on 27 January 1884.

Interior has beautiful stained glasses and walls contain coloured reliefs of Jesus carrying the cross. Long corridors and confession boxes add a dignity to the church interior. Sadly the church is not well maintained with plasters peeling off at several places.

Stained Glass, Sacred Heart Church, Chandannagar

The Chandnnagar Strand is dominated by the Durgacharan Rakshit Ghat. Built in 1920s in honor of Durgacharan Rakshit, the recipient of the French award of Legion d’honneur. The elegant looking pavilion consists of slender columns with decorative stucco works consisting of elephant’s head and floral design.

Left: Durgacharan Rakshit Ghat, Chandannagar Right: Details of stucco work

Chandannagar Gate

Also along the river lies the Duplex’s Mansion, now the Chandannagar Museum & Institute, housing a rare collection of French artifacts, including personal collection of Duplex, the French Governor of Chandannagar.

Just in front of the museum is an elegant mansion called the Patal Bari (Underground House) as a portion of the house is submerged by the Hooghly River. The Patal Bari, with is beautiful wooden sunshades and decorative water outlets, has a long list of distinguished visitors including Rabindranath Tagore & Iswar Chandra Vidyasagar.

Nandadulal Temple, Chandannagar

The northern and southern entry point to Chandannagar is marked is marked with two entry gates. The northern gate no longer exists but the southern gate, although encroached by banners and festoons can still be seen today. The gate consists of two square pillars topped with urns. Inaguarated on 14 July 1937, in memory of the fall of Bastille, which tiggered off the famous French Revolution. The gate contains the slogan of French Revolution “Liberte, Egalite & Fratarnite” which translated into English is “Liberty, Equality & Fraternity.”

Buroshivtala Terracotta Temple

Although a French Colony for 275 years (1678 – 1950). The heritage of Chandannagar is not restricted to French architecture only. The town also houses several temples, including Nandadulal Temple. Standing on a rectangular base of 52 feet by 21 feet it is the largest do – chala (double sloped roof) temple of Bengal. Sadly apart from a few lotus motifs it totally lacks terracotta work, which is the trade mark of Hooghly Temples.

Hooghly is famous for its terracotta temples, and Chandannagar is no exception so terracotta enthusiasts shouldn’t be disheartened as the Boro Shvtala area of Chandannagar houses a spectacular nine pinnacled terracotta temple.

The temple has triple arch entrance of two sides along with intricate terracotta panels. The two side entrances of the triple arched entrance on both side are false and only the central arch entrance operates. The temple also houses a giant Shiva – Linga.

Reference:

• Hooghly Jelar Purakirti by Narendranath Bhattacharya

Links from my website:

• Chandannagar Travelogue
• More photos of Chandannagar

List of my Blog entry on West Bengal

JOYPUR ~ Terracotta beyond Bishnupur

Stone has always been in short supply in the vast flood plains of Bengal. Hence the architects had to restore to other substitute. As clay was easily available the burnt clay bricks soon became a good substitute of stone. This gave rise to a new form of temple architecture and lead to the construction of elaborately decorated terracotta temples. The terracotta art reached its pinnacle under the patronage of the Malla Kings of Bishnupur during the seventeenth century. The temples are still there turning Bishnupur into one of the most favored tourist spot in West Bengal.

Located just 15 km east of Bishnupur the non – descriptive village of Joypur houses some of the finest specimen of terracotta art. It was during the 18 – 19^th century few families of the village took advantage of the cloth trade with the British and made a fortune. They acquired land and became zamindars and built fantastic temples. De and Dutta family were two such families and they still have a temple standing in the courtyard of their decapitated family mansion.

Both the temples are built in naba ratna (nine pinnacles) style and are approached by a triple arched entrance from the Northern and Eastern side. Sadly the temples are in bad shape and are in desperate need of professional restoration.

Triple Arch Panel, Damodar Temple, Duttapara, Joypur

The Damodar Temple of Dutta family has elaborate terracotta on the Eastern arch panel. The central arch panels have scenes from Krishnalila while those on the left and right contain battle scenes from Mahabharata and Ramayana. The uniqueness of the Joypur terracotta is its deep relief giving an almost three dimensional effect to most of the figure. The set of musicians on the cornice are in full three dimension. The temple also contains panels of das avatar, Vishnu in anantasaya and Bishma in sarasaya (bed of arrows).

Terracotta Panels from Vishnu Temple, Depara, Joypur

Located a short distance away is the Vishnu Temple belonging to the De family and follows the same pattern of Naba Ratna architecture. The arch panel shows a series of boats some with armed guards and other with noble men and ladies, including a scene where a noble man smokes a hookah carried by an attendant in different boat.

Another arch panel shows two fantastic jumping lions embedded on a floral motif complete with birds and flowers. Just above the lions is a fantastic panel showing Ram and Sita enthroned attended my monkeys and musicians. A little away from the De family temple is a spectacular octagonal Rash Manch crowned with nine onion shaped pinnacles.

So next time when you are in Bishnupur to enjoy do take a couple of hours break to visit the spectacular temples of Joypur, but don’t be late because centuries of neglect can soon turn the temples to dust.

Reference:

• Joypur from www.aishee.org
• Next Weekend you can be at … Jaypur by Somen Sengupta, The Telegraph 13 July 2011

Related links from my Personal Website:

• Travel article on Joypur (Link not yet ready)

List of my Blog entry on West Bengal

Sripur ~ Temples & Boats

Almost a hundred years after Vasco da Gama landed on the West Coast of India the Portuguese & other European powers started making inroads into Bengal. Using the intricate network of rivers of the Ganga – Bramhaputra Delta the Europeans settled in various parts of Bengal. Their huge barges and ships sailed up & down the Hooghly carrying merchandise from far off lands.

Sripur Temple Complex

Soon the country was in need of boats, barges and even ships. A boat building industry was set up in Sripur, near the present day Balagarh station on the Bandel – Katwa line. Sripur soon started producing not only boats of different shapes and sizes but also ocean going ships turning the non descriptive village into a busy industrial town.

In the early 18^th century, during the golden days of Sripur, Raghunandan Mitra Mustafi of Ula Birnagar in Nadia, migrated to Sripur. Taking advantage of the river trade he soon made a fortune and established a fort complex complete with several temples and other religious structures decorated with elaborate and intricate wood curving. The fort has long crumbled into dust but a few of the temples, along with the intricate wood work, have survived the test of time and can still be seen to this day.

Century old temples with extensive wood curving, along with age old boat making industry and last but not least the grand views of the river Hooghly can well turn Sripur into your next Sunday outing destination.

The 70 km journey to Sripur takes about 2 hours from Howrah. Although rickshaws are available from the Balagarh station to the Sripur temple complex, but it is best to take a leisurely walk. After about 25 minutes of walk you reach the Sripur village, where you are welcomed by the sound of boat maker’s hammer. Walk past the numerous boat making workshops to the temple complex.

Dol Mancha, Sripur

On the left of the road lie a temple and a Dol Mancha. The temple, housing a Shiva – Linga, have been reconstructed and in the process losing its beauty and grace. But the two storied Dol Mancha, with its elegant pillars & arches and crowned with the decorative railing, still reminds one of the glorious days of Sripur.

From the Dol Mancha take a right turn and walk past the Twin Shiv Mandir towards the main cluster of temples. The walls of the Twin Shiv Temples were once covered with intricate terracotta works but sadly they have been plastered off.

The main temple complex houses the Radha Gobinda Mandir along with several temples, Rash Mancha, Nat Mandir. But the star attraction of Sripur is the intricately curved wooden Chandi Mandap.

Wood Curving, Chandi Mandap, Sripur

The Chandi Mandap constructed in 1707 by the Mitra Mustafi family, has recently been declared a protected monument. The hay thatched roof has been replaced with corrugated sheet, thus robbing it of its former beauty and grace. But the real wonder lies inside the Mandap, where the Durga Pujo is held to this day. The three walls of the Chandi Mandap are decorated with the most intricate wood curved panels. The wooden panels are very similar to the terracotta panels that dot the walls of the numerous temples of Bengal. But the wood work is not restricted to the panels alone. The pillars and the roof beams are curved with the finest floral, geometric & figurative designs.

The temple complex houses a octagonal Rash Mancha, complete with nine pinnacles (one each at the eight corners and a larger central one) and an Nat Mandir with elegant pillars. The main temple housing dedicated to Radha Gobinda has totally been transformed into a modern structure.

Boat Construction, Sripur

Bidding farewell to the temple complex head for one of the numerous boat work – shops. Although the Sripur boat industry is now only restricted to small boats but it is still a great experience seeing the boat taking shape. You are also likely come across some over enthusiastic boat maker narrating you about the glorious days of the boat construction industry of Sripur.

Head past the Sripur Bazar to the banks of the Hooghly, where the fresh air will add an extra dash of oxygen to your tired lungs.

Reference:

• Hooghly Jelar Purakirti by Narendranath Bhattacharya.

Related links from my Personal Website:

• Article on Sripur
• Photos of Sripur

List of my Blog entry on West Bengal

Bali Dewanganj ~ Terracotta at its best

The Bengal temple architecture is classified under two broad heads namely ~ Chala (sloped roof) and Ratna (Pinnacle) style. Rarely the two styles combine in a single temple forming a mixed form of architecture. The Durga Temple of Bali – Dewanganj is probably the best example of such mixed temple architecture in the whole of West Bengal.

Left: Jora Bangla, Centre: Naba Ratna, Right: Jora Bangla + Naba Ratna

The lower part of Durga Temple follows the Chala style, in the form of Jora – Bangla style, consisting of two adjoining thatched roof structures. In the middle of the two thatched roof structures stand a Naba – Ratna (nine pinnacled) structure, thus combining the two forms of Bengal temple architecture.

Ruined Temples of Bali Dewanganj

Bali – Dewanganj is a non – descriptive village in the Arambagh sub – division of the Hooghly district. It is well connected by road from both Arambagh and Tarakeshwar. For the most comfortable journey it is best to take the morning Tarakeshwar Local followed by a bus to Bali – Dewangunj. Get down at Haldar Para, from where a winding dirt roads leads to Rout Para, housing the Durga Temple along with a host of other temples.

Durga Temple, Bali Dewanganj

Rout Para houses five temples out of which three are in crumbling stage. Large portions of these temples have already collapsed and all that remains are on the verge of collapsing. Mangal Chandi Temple which lies on the left hand side of the road is said to contain thirteen pinnacles but none of them have survived the test of time. Only one of the stories of this three storied structure stands to this day. Nothing much is known about the structural details of the other two ruined temples, but somehow a pinnacle of each of the two temples stands to this day. The fourth temple in the complex is a small Shiv temple, probably constructed at a much later date and cannot be considered as a historical structure.

But the star attraction of the temple complex is the Durga Mandir, which has remained remarkably intact for over 200 years. Maintained by the West Bengal State Archeology Department, the temple is approached by a three arched entrance way and with elaborate terracotta carvings on its front face. Above the arches, in the centre, lies the huge terracotta panel of Durga. This is probably the largest terracotta panel in the whole of West Bengal. It is flanked on the left by slightly smaller panels of Laxshmi & Ganesh and on the right by Sarswati & Kartik. Stucco work, in the form of temple, surrounds each of the five panels giving them a unique look. There are several other smaller terracotta panels all over the front surface of the temple.

Durga Panel, Durga Temple, Bali Dewanganj

Bidding good bye to the temples, retrace your steps back to the main road, where an octagonal Rashmancha greets you. Sadly the century old structure has been totally reconstructed into a modern structure resembling neither the beauty nor the grace of its former counterpart.

Shiv Kuthir, Bali Dewanganj

If you are still hungry for more you can walk along the main road towards Arambagh. You will soon come across the crumbling remains of a Rashmancha. Further 10 minutes down the road will bring you to the remains of a dilapidated temple on the right hand side of the road. Totally overgrown with trees the temple still contains a few intricately carved terracotta panels. A few minutes further down the road will bring you to a spectacular mansion with arched gateways and slender columns. Known as the Shiv Kuthir, the spectacular building has long been abandoned and roofs have caved in. The inside is overgrown with trees and totally inaccessible.

The crumbling temples and mansions of Bali – Dewanganj will definitely make you sad. But in spite of all odds the Durga Temple with its unique architecture and rich terracotta carvings are spectacular enough to turn Bali – Dewanganj into your next Sunday outing spot.

Reference:

• Hooghly Jelar Purakirti by Narendranath Bhattacharya

Links from my personal website:

• Bali Dewanganj Travelogue

List of my Blog entry on West Bengal