Photo Publication – IX

Click Your Township, Salt Lake, The Telegraph, Calcutta

Dated 17 May, 2013

Also see: Jane’s Walk of East Calcutta Wetlands

Click Your Township is a column in the Salt Lake supplement of The Telegraph where readers can exhibit there photography skills by clicking their township of Salt Lake and Newtown.

Three of my photos of wetlands beyond Salt Lake (Sec. V) was published in the Salt Lake supplement of The Telegraph dated 17 May, 2013.

Salt Lake, The Telegraph, 17 May 2013

The caption read “The best place to photograph stunning clouds is the wetland (bheri) behind sector V. With scattered white clouds creating a striking contrast against the deep blue sky, this is photographer’s heaven. The panoramic shot was shot from behind Godrej Waterside, combining eight shots horizontally. I used a Nikon D60with 18 – 55 mm lens and a Graduated Neutral Density filter. I am a mathematics teacher by profession and am attached with various management & IT institutes of Salt Lake on a part – time basis. I am also a travel writer with a passion for photography.”

East Calcutta Wetlands

A Photographers Heaven

Also see: Jane’s Walk 2013, East Calcutta Wetlands

“If the Maidan is the lungs of Calcutta, the East Calcutta Wetlands would be the kidney!”

Bonani Kakkar, Environment Activist

Godrej Waterside from East Calcutta Wetlands

Located on the eastern fringes of the city the East Calcutta Wetlands is an interesting mix of natural and man made water bodies interconnected by a complex network of canals. Covering an area of 125 square kilometers, the East Calcutta Wetland include salt marshes and salt meadows, as well as sewage farms and settling ponds and is the world’s largest wastewater fed aqua culture system.

The East Calcutta Wetlands provide a very cheap, efficient and eco-friendly system of solid waste and sewer treatment system for the city of Calcutta (Kolkata), hence

Sadly for majority of Calcuttans the East Calcutta wetlands is just a quick glance from the passing car window along the Eastern Metropolitan Bypass or a glimpses from the office window of Salt Lake (Sec. V).

I have been no stranger to the East Calcutta Wetlands (locally called bheri). For the last two decades I have been exploring the region through long walks and bicycle rides.

I still remember the long bicycle rides through the bheris taking me all the way from Salt Lake (Sec. V) to Chingrighata on the Eastern Metropolitan Bypass.

East Calcutta Wetland Panorama, with Salt Lake (Sec V) skyline (File Photo)

East Calcutta Wetlands is also a photographers’ heaven. It was also the place where I learned my basics of photography starting with a point and shoot film camera. It was also in the East Calcutta Wetlands I graduated to analog SlR and then to a DSLR.

East Calcutta Wetlands

It is also the place where I used to experiment with high end photography skills like HDR and panorama shooting.

These three photos published in the “Click your Township” column of the Salt Lake supplement of The Telegraph, Calcutta was shot on July 2012.

It was a Sunday and the monsoon was at its height, it rained heavily in the night and in the morning I rose of to see spectacular white feathery clouds against deep blue sky.

I at once packed my camera and headed for the East Calcutta Wetlands from my residence in Salt Lake. I soon made my way past the Godrej Waterside building deep inside the wetlands.

After about two hours I got my dream shots but not before covering about 4 km on foot. I returned exhausted but with a bag full of photographs, which took hours of processing in my computer.

Maluti, Rebirth of a Temple Town

Maluti

Rebirth of a Temple Town

Located in the Dumka District of Jharkhand the non descriptive village of Maluti houses several temple with intricate art work.

Cluster of Temples, Maluti

Baj Basanta

Legend, Myth and a bit of History

Family Tree of Baj Basanta

It was during  the reign of Alauddin Hussan Shah of Gour (1495 – 1525) and the sultan has camped in the nearby area about 500 years back. It was during the camp the Begum lost his favorite pet hawk (baj). A young local orphan farmer by the name of Basanta captured the bird and returned it to the queen. The sultan was so impressed that as a token of gratitude he gifted several acres of tax free land to Basnata, marking the beginning of Nankar (tax free) kingdom and Basanta came to be known as Baj Basanta.

Baj Basant’s great grand son Rajchandra was defeated by the King of Rajnagar in a battle and was brutally murdered. His four sons shifted the capital to Maluti in about 1680 and started living separately.

The house of Rakharchandra, the eldest son, came to be known as Rajbari (house of the king). The second son Prithvichandra’s house was called the Madhyam Bari (house of the second). Ramchandra, who like his brother got one – fourth share, and was called Sikir Bari (house of one – fourth share). The fourth and last son Madhavchandra had six sons, so his house came to be known as Chhai Taraf (house of six). The four sons build several temples converting the non descriptive village into a temple town.

Gopaldas Mukherjee (Batu da)

The Lone Crusader

“Whoever comes to Maluti, Batuda takes him around, tells him some fabulous stories about each temple. He knows the temples brick by brick”

Satish Tyagi, former deputy director archaeology, Jharkhand

Gopaldas Mukherjee (Batu da)

The 72 out of the 108 temples of Maluti stands to this day. They have survived due to the efforts of a single man Gopaldas Mukherjee (locally known as Batu da). The 82 years old Batu da have been a custodian of the Maulti temples for over half a century. It is only due to the efforts of this gentleman the temples of Maluti have survived and are presently being conserved by the Government of Jharkhand.

Gopaldas Mukherjee the retired school teacher and ex air-force soldier have not only saved the temples from destruction but also documented the history of the village. He has written several books on Maluti in Bengali, Hindi and English.

His Bengali books include “Devbhumi Maluti,” “Bajer Badale Raj” and “Nankar Maluti.” His English book “Temples of Maluti” is all set to be published. His Hindi works include a booklet titled “Guptakasi Maluti.”

Maluti

My Personal Travelogue

Although Maluti is located in Dumka District of Jharkhand but it is best approachable from Rampurhat in Birbhum district of West Bengal. Although no regular autos are available from the Rampurhat station one has to book a auto to visit the temples of Maluti.

Cluster of Temples, Maluti, Dumka, Jharkhand

The highlight of the auto ride is an amazing shortcut along a abandoned second world War (WWII) airstrip. The towering sentinel like temples welcomed us into the village of Maluti. Batu da himself welcomed us into the village and volunteered to give us a temple tour.

Mahisasuramardini. Maluti

The temples of Maluti are distributed in four clusters, belonging to the four great great grandsons of Baj Basanta. The first cluster belongs to the Madhyam Bari. The second and third clusters are clubbed together and belong to the Rajbari and Sikir Bari. The fourth and last cluster belong to Chhai Taraf.

Apart from these there are several other scattered temples along with a few new temples, including the newly constructed abode of Goddess Mauliksha, after whom Maluti gets its named.

Ramayana in Arch Panel, Maluti

Most of the temples of Maluti follow the char – challa (four sloped roofs) form of architecture, however there are a few flat roof temples and a single pinnacle temple. But the star attraction of Maluti temple is its intricate terracotta. Some scholars have opined that the intricate designs are not terracotta but curved out of a sandstone called phool pathar, but several others, including Gopaldas Mukherjee, consider it as terracotta (burnt clay).

As the experts argue over finer issue we decide to explore the temple town of Maluti. We started with the first cluster consisting of several temples, known as Madhyam Bari, with intricate carvings. The temples are approached by a single arched entrance with is crowned by a war scene between Ram and Ravan. This scene is found in several temples all over Maluti, but they are not replicas. Each differ from the other for example Ravana is seen to mount a chariot or sporting decorative foot wears while Hunuman carries Ram on his shoulder. Another common panel is that Durga in Mahisasuramardini poster flaked with her children in traditional style. This panel is normally found above the arch panel in almost all the temples of Maluti.

Durga with her children, Maluti

Our next stop was the second combined cluster of Rajbari and Sikir Bari, approachable by a complex maze of lanes. This is the largest of the clusters and contains several temples of different shapes and sizes, including a roofless hexagonal Rasmancha. In one of the temples the Ram – Ravan scene in the arch panel is replaced with a beautiful Mahisasuramarini panel.

Chariot, Maluti

Finally we made our way again through a complex networks of lanes and bylanes to the last of the cluster, known as Chhai Taraf. Consisting of a few scattered temples on either side of the road. All the temples follow the char chala structure and are decorated with beautiful terracotta carvings.

Finally it was time for home and we returned with a signed copy of Gopaldas Mukherjee’s book “Nankar Maluti” and with memories to last a life time and dreams to return again.

Necessary Information:

Getting There: Rampurhat is the nearest railhead. Gandevata Express is the best option. There are no regular transport from Rampurhat. Auto needs to be reserved from Rampurhat for the Maluti trip. The journey (one way) takes an hour via a shortcut through an abandoned Second World War highway. Aprox. Cost is Rs400, subject to bargain, for the whole trip.

Places to stay: Maluti can be covered in a single day from Kolkata. There are no places to stay in Maluti. Hotels are available in Rampurhat. The trip can be clubbed with the popular pilgrimage of Tarapith.

Places to eat: Maluti has no eateries. Basic food is available in Rampurhat.

Jane’s Walk 2013, East Calcutta (Kolkata) Wetlands

Jane Jacobs

Journalist, Author, Activist and Urban Thinker

“You’ve got to get out and walk”

Jane Jacobs (Source: Wikipedia Commons)

Jane Jacobs (May 4, 1916 – April 25, 2006) was an American–Canadian journalist, author, and activist best known for her influence on urban studies. She had no formal training in architecture or urban planning yet her influential book “The Death and Life of Great American Cities” (published in 1961) introduced ground breaking ideas about how cities function, evolve and fail that now seem like common sense to generations of architects, planners, politicians and activists.

Jacobs saw cities as integrated systems that had their own logic and dynamism which would change over time according to how they were used. With a keen eye for detail, she wrote eloquently about sidewalks, parks, retail design and self-organization.

A firm believer in the importance of local residents having input on how their neighborhoods develop, Jacobs encouraged people to familiarize themselves with the places where they live, work, and play.

Started in 2007, a year after her death, Jane’s Walks are held annually during the first weekend in May, to coincide with her birthday. Jane’s Walk consists of a series of neighbourhood walking tours. The walks are led by local volunteers and offered for free.

(Sorce: Official wuebsite of Jane Jacobs Walk)

Jane’s Walk Calcutta (Kolkata) Edition

3 – 5  May. 2013

“To Calcutta much abused, much loved and always interesting”

Desmond Doig

The 2013 Calcutta (Kolkata) edition of the Jane’s Walk was organised by The Telegraph Explore Calcutta Walks, in association with Calcutta Walks and was presented by Prabha Khaitan Foundation. Nine walks (including a bicycling ride) was designed by Calcutta Walks to cover the different cultural, social and even environmental aspects of the “City of Joy.”

Jane’s Walk, Calcutta (Kolkata) Edition Schedule

Walk	Leader	Meeting	May 4 & 5
East Calcutta Wetlands	Bonani Kakkar	Paroma Police Station	7 am
Park Street	Usha Uthup	Asiatic Society	8 am
Kalighat	Santimoy Bhattacharya	Kalighat Police Station	8 am
Photowalk	Rahul Mall	Victoria Memorial Main Gate	8 am
Rabindra Sarobar	Mudar Patherya	Menoka Cinema	8 am
Calcutta Theatre Story	Shuktara Lal	Girish Park Metro Exit	8 am
Sovabazar	Akhil Sarkar	Chatubabu Latubabur Bari	8 am
Bicycling Calcutta	Gautam Sharoff	Victoria Memorial Main Gate	6 am
Chinatown – Tiretta Bazar	Joseph Percy Ling	Poddar Court Remeonds	8 am

It was a tough decision choosing the walk, and after a series of decisions and indecisions I decided to head for the East Calcutta Wetlands Walk on 5 May 2013.

East Calcutta Wetlands Walk

With Bonani Kakkar, 5 May 2013

“If the Maidan is the lungs of Calcutta, the East Calcutta Wetlands would be the kidney!”

Bonani Kakkar, Environment Activist

East Calcutta Wetland, with Salt Lake (Sec, V) skyline (File Photo)

Located on the eastern fringes of the city the East Calcutta Wetlands is an interesting mix of natural and man made water bodies interconnected by a complex network of canals. Covering an area of 125 square kilometers, the East Calcutta Wetland include salt marshes and salt meadows, as well as sewage farms and settling ponds and is the world’s largest wastewater fed aqua culture system.

Bonani Kakkar (left) unfolding the mysteries of East Calcutta Wetlands

The East Calcutta Wetlands provide a very cheap, efficient and eco-friendly system of solid waste and sewer treatment system for the city of Calcutta (Kolkata), hence

Sadly for majority of Calcuttans the East Calcutta wetlands is just a quick glance from the passing car window along the Eastern Metropolitan Bypass or a glimpses from the office window of Salt Lake (Sec. V).

The Jane’s Walk of the East Calcutta Wetlands kicked of from the Bantala Dock after a 3 km drive from the Paroma Island. Walk leader Bonani Kakkar, environmentalist and activist  who rums the NGO People United for Better Living in Calcutta (PUBLiC), introduced the wetlands standing next to one of the numerous sluice gates that controls the flow of water in & out of the wetlands.

Sluice Gate, East Calcutta Wetlands

According to Bonani Kakkar Calcutta (Kolkata) slopes West to East and away from the river. The East Calcutta Wetland comes to the rescue saving to the city from flooding. Time and again unplanned planning have led to excessive water logging in some pockets of the city, Bonani cited the example of Lake Town being flooded after the construction of the Eastern Metropolitan Bypass.

The walk soon started and we made our way past some  ruined structure, which according to Bonani was a sewage water treatment plant set up by the British. But Calcutta had its own natural sewage treatment system and quiet likely the plant never started operation.

Bamboo Fencing, East Calcutta Wetland

As we made our way past one of these structure a slithering snake, which lived in perfect harmony with a family of pigs, welcomed us. Soon our discussion shifted to wildlife of East Calcutta Wetland and Bonani shared her experience of spotting monitor lizards and mongoose. Sadly our wildlife spotting was restricted to few water birds like kingfisher, cormorants, herons and the rare open bill stork.

Soon the discussion changed to ecology, and Bonani explained the role of water hyacinths in providing shade to small fishes and the role of algae in keeping the four feet deep water of the wetlands (locally called bheri) clean.

Fishing Net, East Calcutta Wetland (File Photo)

As we crossed a rickety bamboo bridge and ventured deep into the bheri region Bonani became nostalgic as she narrated about the epic battle against the West Bengal Government to protect the East Calcutta Wetlands. Bonani went on to narrate the story of  Justice Umesh Ch. Banerjee being welcomed to the bheri by a yellow coloured giant frog (locally called sona bang) on his official visit to the wetlands. Finally in 1992  it was victory for Bonani and PUBLiC, Justice Umesh Ch. Banerjee of High Court ruled that no development activity could take place without its prior permission. More success followed as in 2002 the East Calcutta Wetlands was declared as Wetland of International Importance by Ramsar Bureau.

Jane’s Walk through East Calcutta Wetland

We continued our walk along narrow embankments separating one bheri from the other with the Calcutta (Kolkata) skyline in the distant horizon. We walked passed boats and fishing nets left to dry and strange bamboo screens which prevented the fish from moving from one bheri to another.

Occasionally we made way for fishermen on bicycles carrying fresh stock of fish to the market. Bonani’s husband Pradeep, who was accompanying us, explained that the East Calcutta Wetlands not only provides fish to the Calcutta market but also fresh vegetables grown in the adjoining land, which is technically a part of the wetland.

East Calcutta Wetlands, a paradise (File Photo)

We finished our East Calcutta Wetland walk discussing about the threats to this fragile ecosystem. Although a protected place the land sharks are always lookout for an opportunity.  Also the toxic chemical wastes are threatening to contaminate the  fish and vegetables.

Note:

• The File Photos are not shot during Jane’s East Calcutta Wetland Walk on 5 May 2013.

Special Thanks:

• Bonani Kakkar for the wonderful introduction of the East Calcutta Wetlands
• The Telegraph for hosting the Jane’s Walk in Calcutta
• Calcutta Walks not only for its efficient management but also for supporting this blog

Armenian Genocide Day, Armenian Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Armenian Genocide Day

24 April, Armenian Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Also see my blog post on Armenians of Calcutta (Kolkata)

“When we were marching from Mosul, Jumman [a sweaper of Bengal Ambulance Corps] saw an Armernian child on the banks of a stream near Ras al-‘Ain and picked him up. His mother must have died, and his father must have been killed… Jumman took on the responsibility of looking after the boy and named him Babulal. He used to call Jumman father (‘Baba’).”

Abhi le Bagdad by Sisir Sarbadhikiri

Source: Amitav Ghosh’s Blog

Armenian Genocide Day, Armenian Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

The amazing account came from a Bengal Ambulance Corps (BAC) volunteer Sisir Sarbadhikari’s diary which was later published as a book named Abhi le Bagdad (literally meaning Onwards to Bagdad). Written in Bengali it is a amazing first hand account of World War I (WWI). It is quiet likely that the Armenian boys parents were victims of the notorious Armenian Genocide.

Armenian Genocide Plaque, Armenian Church, Calcutta

The Armenian Genocide also known as the Armenian Holocaust, the Armenian Massacres and, traditionally among Armenians, as the Great Crime was the Ottoman government’s systematic extermination of its minority Armenian subjects from their historic homeland in the territory constituting the present-day Republic of Turkey. It took place during and after World War I and was implemented in two phases: the wholesale killing of the able-bodied male population through massacre and forced labor, and the deportation of women, children, the elderly and infirm on death marches to the Syrian Desert. The total number of people killed as a result has been estimated at between 1 and 1.5 million. (Source: Wikipedia)

Armenians arrive, Armenian Genocide Day

24 April is considered as the Armenian Genocide day because on this very day in 1915 about 250 Armenian intellectuals were arrested in Constantinople and were sent to prisons in the interior of Anatolia, where most of them were summarily executed.

Armenians all over the world observes 24 April as the Armenian Genocide Remembrance day. Calcutta (Kolkata), housing a Armenian community for over three hundred years, is no exception. The Armenian Genocide Day Remembrance Service was scheduled to begin at 10:30 am.

Distribution of flowers, Armenian Genocide Day

The service is held in the Armenian Church, which happens to be the oldest Christian Church in Calcutta (Kolkata). The Armenian Church compound houses a Genocide Memorial designed by Rev. Vazken Stepanian and was set up in 1965 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Armenian Genocide.

In 2013 the Armenian Genocide Day Remembrance Service was scheduled to begin at 10:30 am. I reached the Armenian Church, officially known as the Holy Church of Nazareth, at about 10 am and found the small Armenian Genocide Memorial already decorated with flowers and candle stand.

Armenian Genocide Remembrance Day Service, 24 April 2013

Choir, Armenian Genocide Day

The Armenians arrived at 10:30 and was lead by Rev. Fr. Geghart Ghabaghyan, as Rev. Father Khoren Hovhannisyan, pastor (priest) of Armenians in India, was out of town. Unlike the Armenian Christmas and Good Friday the Armenian Genocide Remembrance day has a secular feeling and the service is attended by the non Armenian staff members of the Armenian College.

The rituals begin with the distribution of flowers and lighting of the candles at the memorial. The service soon begin and the prayers are lead by  Rev. Fr. Geghart Ghabaghyan and assisted by the students of the Armenian College, Calcutta (Kolkata).

Placing of flowers on Armenian Genocide Memorial

The choir sings on and an Armenian student swings the smoking thurible, a metal censer suspended from chains, in which incense is burned during worship services. The entire service was in Armenian and although I didn’t understand a word of it but it did have a long lasting mesmerising effect.

The Armenian Genocide Remembrance Day Service ended with the the placing of the flowers, which was distributed earlier, on the Genocide Memorial.

The service was over in little over an hour and Armenian community of Calcutta (Kolkata) soon left along with the staff and students of the Armenian College but I stayed back in the church wondering about the horrific events that happed about a century ago.

Flower stacked Armenian Genocide Memorial, Calcutta

Special Thanks:

• Santanu Das of King’s College, London who first informed me about Sisir Sarbadhikari’s book Abhi le Bagdad
• Amitav Ghosh, best selling author, not only for his amazing blog but also for his constant inspiration.
• My Armenian friends Liz Chater and Max Galstaun for providing valuable informations.
• Rev. Fr. Geghart Ghabaghyan and the entire Armenian community of Calcutta
• The staff and students of the Armenian College, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Toong On Church, Rebirth of a Chinese Temple

Toong On Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Rebirth of a Chinese Temple

Also see: My blog post on Calcutta (Kolkata) Chinatown

Changing Story ~ Nanking Restaurant and Toong On Church (Top to bottom: March 2008, 10 Feb, 2011, 13 Oct, 2012, 20 Jan, 2013)

March 2008: A beautiful two storied brick red building stood in the shadows of the multi storied office of Kolkata Telephones. The entrance was not easily approachable and the door perennially locked. Above the door in beautiful Chinese calligraphy was written Toong On Church.  The building once housed the Toong On Church at the first floor and the Nanking Restaurant on the ground floor. A decade long court case have kept the building under lock and key and the Toong On caligraphy was all that remained of the buildings glorious history.

Feb 10, 2011: I was out to explore the Chinese Temples of Tiretta Bazar, with fellow photographer Amitabha Gupta. We made our way past the garbage dump to the entrance of the beautiful two storied red coloured building only to find the Chinese calligraphy being replaced by a temporary banner of Nanking Restaurant.

Oct 13, 2012: It was the Calcutta edition of the Scott Kelby Photowalk 2012. I took a detour past the garbage dump and made my way to the entrance of the Nanking Restaurant. To my utter surprise I found the Nanking Restaurant banner replaced by the Toong On Church banner. Strangely the door was open and I made my way up to the first floor, straight in front was the alter housing the strange idol of the warrior God Kwan Ti. Sadly apart from the alter the room was totally empty and lacked the ambiance and glamor of the surrounding Chinese Temples.

Jan 20, 2013: It was the Footsteps Photowalk and again I made my way to the entrance of the Nanking Resturant and Toong On Church only to find that the temporary banner of Toong On Church have been replaced by a permanent beautiful bright red Chinese calligraphy.

Warior God Kwan Ti, Tong On Church, Tiretta Bazar, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Set up in 1924 the Nanking Restaurant is considered as the oldest Chinese restaurant in Calcutta (Kolkata) and probably in the whole of India. It has always been a favorite hunting ground for celebrities and its long list of celebrity clientèle ranged from Bollywood stars Dilip Kumar and Raj Kapoor to author Sunil Gangopadhyay.

But unknown to many the gorgeous Nanking Restaurant housed an equally gorgeous temple in its first floor. The temple dedicated to the warrior god Kwan Ti was beautifully decorated with antique furniture and a sets of weaponry.

The Au family who own the Nanking Restaurant have always kept the existence of the Chinese Temple a secret and never allowed any one inside. Although the temple trust owns the property, the papers ended up in Au’s hands, thanks to Calcutta Telephone’s real-estate appetite that threatened to engulf Nanking in 1961. Au family went to court and the temple trust handed the original deed of conveyance over to them, which they never returned. Nanking Restaurant survived because  there was a place of worship on the first floor.

Toong On Church

Nanking closed its door in the late 1970s and Au family made several unsuccessful attempts to sale the property. Being unsuccessful in his attempt Au Yau Wah started removing artifacts and idols from the temple at the “dead of night” and started selling them.

In July 2008, Toong On got a court order staying the sale. Au Yau Wah died a few months later. With his heirs uninterested, the case is stuck in judicial limbo, though as of July 2012  the trustees got possession of Toong On.

In 2013 Toong On faced a new problem. For years, an open garbage dump stood at the entrance to the lane. That was awful enough, but the municipality decided to move it into the lane, adjacent to Toong On, and erected a structure for it there.

Giant Buddha, Toong On Church

After several protest from the Indian Chinese Association the Kolkata Municipal Corporation (KMC) finally decided to move the newly constructed garbage vat, but till date nothing much has been done. One literally has to walk through garbage to enter the Toong On Church.

The Toong on Church has recently been at the hub of many cultural activities ranging from minority community meets to kung – fu classes. Plans are even being made to set up a museum dedicated to the history and culture of Indian Chinese. The events are being promoted through the Toong On Church Facebook page.

On April 21, 2013 I attended one such meet at the Toong On Church. The meet was chaired by Paul Chaung, the chairman of Indian Chinese Association. Local MLA Sikha Mitra, INTACH Kolkata chapter conveyor G. M. Kapur and Prof. Maria Fernandes vice chairman Minority Commission spoke on different aspects of the Calcutta (Kolkata) Chinese.

As I reached the Toong On Church I was surprised to see the entrance free of garbage. Banners hang from the building saying “Save Heritage Toong On Church from garbage.”  As I entered the building a giant Buddha statue greeted me at the ground floor. Sadly the beautiful statue probably marked the end of an era called NANKING. As I took the stairs to the first floor I found Prof. Maria Fernandes, vice chairman Minority Commission, speaking on Calcutta Chinese food. No wonder it was a strange coincidence.

Special Thanks:

• Special thanks to Dominic Lee providing me the photo of Chinese Calligraphy of Toong On Church

Reference:

• Temple for Sale by Soumitra Das, The Telegraph, Calcutta, June 1, 2008
• Strung Out by Dilip D’souza, The Caraven
• Warrior God wins a battle by Zeeshan Jawed, The Telegraph, Calcutta, Aug 13, 2012

World War I (WWI) Memorials, Calcutta (Kolkata)

World War I Memorials, Calcutta (Kolkata)

A Compilation of WWI Memorials in Calcutta (Kolkata)

From fallen soldiers to innocent victims of mass genocide, Calcutta (Kolkata) houses several memorials in memory of the martyrs of the Great War of 1914 – 18 (World War I). From well known towering memorials of British soldiers to hidden memorials dedicated to unknown regiments. Calcutta (Kolkata) WWI Memorials not only covers a wide range of history but also a diversified architectural style.

Glorious Dead Cenotaph

Calcutta (Kolkata) Maidan

Glorious Dead Cenotaph, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Located on the Northern end of the Calcutta (Kolkata) Maidan the Glorious Dead Cenotaph is the most well known of the WWI Memorials of Calcutta (Kolkata). Designed by architect Herbert William Palliser, the sandstone built memorial loosely resembles the Cenotaph of Whitehall. London.

The Eastern side of the cenotaph bears the inscription “Glorious Dead” on the lower portion. The top portion of the Southern and Northern side contains the inscription MCMXIV and MCMXVIII respectively. The inscription in Roman numerals read 1914 and 1918, the beginning and end of the Great War.

The cenotaph commemorates those Calcutta British who gave their lives for King and Country during the First World War. The original brass plaque containing the names of the fallen has been removed to the St. John’s Church, Calcutta (Kolkata) in 1959.

All the names noted in the brass plaque were British name indicating that the “Glorious Dead” cenotaph was a WWI dedicated only to British and Anglo – Indian soldiers.

The Glorious Dead Cenotaph is enclosed by a low railing with the  entrance marked by twin bronze statues of British soldiers. The statues adopt the standard British army funeral vigil stance of heads bowed with bayonetted rifle turned upside-down.

A detailed article on the “Glorious Dead” Cenotaph is coming up in my blog soon.

Bengali War Memorial

College Square

Also see: My blog entry on Bengali War Memorial

Bengali War Memorial, College Square, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Bengalis have never been a warrior race, and a Bengali fighting a war would be one of the last thing one can imagine. Bengalis are rather dubbed as book worms showing their excellence in academic fields. But in the very heart of Kolkata’s acadamic hub stands a memorial dedicated to the Bengali warriors killed during World War I.

Located just at the entrance of East gate of College Square this monument is rarely visible as its is likely to be surrounded by posters or wet clothings left to dry. Top of the pillar, like memorial, is marked with the inscription “49 Bengalis.” 49 stood for the 49th Bengali Regiment.

The base contains the following inscriptions “In memory of members of The 49th Bengalee Regiment who died in the Great War, 1914-1918, To the Glory of God, King and Country.”

The other three sides of the memorial base contains the names of the 49 Bengalis killed in the Great War of 1914 – 1918. It also contains the following information of Reg. No., Rank, Date of Death, District from which come.

The districts are Midnapore, Mymensinh, Murshidabad, Nadia, Calcutta, Jessore, Burdwan, Pabna, Chittagong, Khulna, Barisal, Faridpore, Pabna, 24-Parganas and Tripura (Tipperah).

Lascar Memorial

Napier Road, Hastings

Also see: My blog post on Lascar Memorial

Lascar Memorial, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Sandwiched between the two buildings of the Navy House in Napier Road in Hasting region of Calcutta (Kolkata) stands a towering structure built in the honor of 896 Lascars, who died fighting for the British Navy during the Great War of 1914 – 18 (First World War).

The 100 ft memorial built in the Indo-Mughal style has prows of an ancient galley projecting from each side and is capped by four mini minarets and a large dome. Along the facade are undulating lines symbolizing waves.

Lascar Memorial was designed by William Ingram Keir, who earned an award of Rs 500 for its design in an international contest in 1920.

The Lascar War Memorial was unveiled to public by the then governor of Bengal, Lord Lytton, on February 6, 1924. A plaque inside the Lascar War Memorial stands as a witness to the historic event. The other plaque is in the memory of the 896 Lascars, although the term “Lascar” is not used. They have been mentioned as “Seaman of Bengal, Asam and Upper India.” The third smaller plaques tells about the renovation and lighting of the Lascar War Memorial. The Memorial was renovated in 1994, under the initiative of  commodore B K Mohanti.

Armenian Genocide Memorial

Armenian Church

Also see: My blog post on Armenian Genocide Day

Armenian Genocide Memorial, Armenian Church, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Not a memorial for fallen WWI soldiers, the Armenian Genocide Memorial stands at the compound of the Armenian Church (officially known as the Church of the Holy Nazareth), Calcutta’s (Kolkata’s) oldest Christian Church. Although not exactly a war memorial but commemorates the killing of about 1.5 million Armenians by the Ottoman Turks during the Great War of 1914 – 18 (WWI).

The starting date of the genocide is conventionally held to be April 24, 1915, the day when Ottoman authorities arrested some 250 Armenian intellectuals. 24 April is considered as the Armenian Genocide day and its is remembered by Armenians through out the world.

The small memorial located on the Armenian Church Complex was erected my the small minority of Calcutta (Kolkata) Armenians on 24 April 1965 on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the Armenian Genocide.

Every year the small group of Calcutta (Kolkata) Armenian gather at the memorial on 24 April to pay tribute to over one million Armenians who lost there lives under the most tragic conditions during the great world war of 1914 – 18.

Note:

• This is a compilation article and not exhaustive. It would be updated from time to time
• It is a compilation of WWI Memorials no graves are included

A tweet from Amitav Ghosh

Sribati ~ West Bengal’s Hidden Terracotta Gem

Sribati, Katwa, Burdwan

West Bengal’s Hidden Terracotta Gem

Once upon a time a family from far of Gujrat migrated the entire length of the country to settle near the present day town of Katwa in Burdwan district. Belonging to the trader class they soon exhaled in trade & commerce.

Sribati Temple Complex (Left: Bishwashwar, Centre: Bholanath Right: Chandaneshwar)

Their huge barges sailed up and down the Hooghly and it’s tributaries and distributaries carrying merchandise from far off lands. In a very short span of time the Chandra family earned enough to build themselves a huge mansion, and several temples dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Sribati Terracotta

But the good old days of the Chandra family didn’t last long. With the river changing courses frequently, the river trade ceased to exist and the Chandra family’s fortunes fell faster than it grew. The mansion and the temples are still there reminding one of the glorious days of river trade of Bengal. Sadly the mansion is all in ruins and some of the temples have reconstructed and they neither resemble the beauty and grace of its original counterpart. Strangely three of the temples have survived the test of time and neglect. The temple with its richly curved terracotta panels reminds on of the glorious days of Bengal architecture and well be your next weekend gate way.

For the most comfortable journey it is best to take the Kamrup Express to Katwa. You will be in Katwa by late evening and check in one of the numerous hotels in station area. Next morning, after a heavy breakfast, head for the bus terminus. The bus terminus is located next to the railway station. Take a bus to Singhi More (Crossing) and from there swap buses to head for Sribati. The combined journey takes little less than an hour and do tell the conductor to drop you at the desired destination.

Ships on Sribati Terracotta

As you get down from the bus you will find yourself in the midst of agricultural fields with a narrow dirt road leading towards the village of Sribati. The road initially passes through the lush green paddy fields and then meanders into the village, going past mud houses, the reconstructed temples, the Chandra’s mansion and finally to the temple complex housing the terracotta wonders.

The complex consists of three Shiv temples. The center one is a pancha – ratna temple (five spires, with one each at the four corners and one at the center), it is flanked on both side by two Deul (with tall towering spire) temples. The right hand one stands on an octagonal base and the left consists of a square base. The central temple houses the white Shivalinga of Bholanath. The octagonal and the square temple respectively contain the black Shivalingas of Chandaneshwar and Bishwashwar respectively.

Sribati Terracotta

The star attraction lies on the outer walls of these two hundred year old temples. Every square inch of the walls of the temple are intricately curved with terracotta panels, depicting scenes of barges floating down the river, European soldiers, ladies with swords peeping out of windows, musicians playing musical instruments and many more scenes from day to day life.

Sadly there is no blue board declaring it as a “Monument of National Importance.” But the villagers are extremely friendly and you can well get some one from the Chandra family who will be glad enough to explain the history of the temples and their family.

Before you head home don’t forget to pay a visit to the Durga Dalan of the Chandras, where Durga Puja is still being held.

Durga, Sribati Terracotta

Necessary Information:

Getting There: Kamrup Express. Howrah (d17:35) Katwa (a20:53). Fare Rs60. Katwa – Kurchi More (Bus, Time 45 minutes, Fare Rs6). Kurchi More – Sribati (Bus, Time 15 minutes, Fare Rs3).

Places to stay & eat: The station and bus stand area in Katwa has several hotels with basic facilities.

Getting Back: There are no express trains from Katwa in the afternoon. So the only option is to take a local. Katwa. Howrah Local. Katwa (d15:00) Howrah(a19:30). Katwa Sealdah Local. Katwa (d15:55) Sealdah (a20:20). Fare Rs25.

Note: Rates discussed here are as on April 2010.

Armenian Good Friday, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Burial of Christ ~ Armenian Good Friday

St. Gregory, the Illuminator, Armenian Chapel, Calcutta (Kolkata)

Also see my blog post on Armenians of Calcutta (Kolkata)

The coffin bearers slowly carried the black coffin, beautifully stacked with flowers outside the small chapel adjoining to the Lower Circular Road Cemetery in Calcutta (Kolkata). Strangely it was not a funeral and nor the black coffin contained any dead body !!!!

Armenian Good Friday, St. Gregory, the Illuminator chapel, Calcutta (Kolkata)

It was the Good Friday service of the Armenian Christian community at the St. Gregory, the Illuminator Armenian Chapel at Park Circus.

St. Gregory, the Illuminator, Armenian Chapel

The Armenian history in Calcutta dates back to the mid 17^th century. The Armenians have believed to have settled in Calcutta far beyond the days of Job Charncok, the controversial founder of the city.

The Armenians also have the distinction of having the oldest Christian Church in Calcutta. The  Armenian Church, officially known as the Holy Church of Nazareth was originally constructed in 1707, but the present building dates back to 1724. The Armenian Christmas Mass, which is held on 6 Jan. instead of 25 Dec., is held at the Armenian Church.

The Good Friday service is held at the St. Gregory, the Illuminator, Armenian Chapel, which is hidden inside a narrow winding lane in the Park Circus area and is adjoining to Lower Circular Road Cemetery.

Armenian Good Friday Service

St. Gregory, the Illuminator, Armenian Chapel was constructed in 1906 by the funds raised by the Indian Armenian Community. The chapel, located on a narrow lane in the Park Circus area is extremely difficult to locate.

The complex also houses an old age home named after an eminent Calcutta Armenian Catchick Paul Chater. The complex also contain several graves of the Chater family. The complex is beautifully decorated with lawns, flowerbeds and marble statues. It can be considered as an oasis of peace in one of the chaotic locations of Calcutta (Kolkata).

Sadly the Good Friday services lacks the grandeur of the Christmas, which is normally attended by the entire Armenian community of Calcutta (Kolkata). On the other hand the Good Friday service is attended only by a handful of Armenians.

Round the chapel. with the coffin

The Good Friday Service starts at about 3 pm. Lead by Rev. Father Khoren Hovhannisyan, pastor (priest) of Armenians in India and assisted by Rev. Fr. Geghart Ghabaghyan along with a host of boys from the Calcutta Armenian School and College. It recreates the burial of Jesus Christ.

The black coffin, beautifully stacked with flower was placed before the alter. Prayers were said and songs were sung. The coffin bearers final lift the coffin, supposed to contain the body of Christ, and make their way slowly outside the chapel. They made their way round the chapel and the coffin returns to the original place.

Round the chapel. with the coffin

Further prayers follow and the services come to an end with the distribution of the flowers stacked over the coffin, which are said to bring good luck.

Special Thanks:

• To my Armenian friends Liz Chater and Max Galstaun for providing valuable information about the Good Friday Mass and also about the location of the St. Gregory, the Illuminator, Armenian Chapel.
• To Rev. Father Khoren Hovhannisyan, pastor (priest) of Armenians in India and the entire Armenian Community of Calcutta.

Second Wikipedia Kolkata Photowalk

Wikipedia Takes Kolkata II

Second Wikipedia Kolkata Photowalk, 3 March 2013

“The 29, busy professionals on weekdays and hobby photographers on weekends, were participating in the second edition of Wikipedia Takes Kolkata. The aim? Not to build impressive personal collection of photographs but to increase the number of city images available on the the number one information resource for GeNext.”

Sreyoshi Dey, The Telegraph, Kolkata , 7 March 2013

“Wikipedia Takes Kolkata II is the second edition of the event organised by the Wikipedians, encouraging the masses to contribute to the world’s largest, quickest online encyclopedia”

Suruchi Gupta, Hindustan Times, Kolkata, 3 March 2013

Second Wikipedia Kolkata Photowalk, Group Photo (Photo: Biswarup Ganguly)

Wikipedia the world largest online encyclopedia runs on entirely voluntary effort. Each major city in the world has a a Wikipedia chapter, who apart from contributing to Wikipedia carry out different activities like Wikiacademy and photowalks.

A few instructions and off goes the Wikipedians (Photos: Biswarup Ganguly)

The main objective of Wikipedia Photowalk, officially known a “Wikipedia Takes,” is to build a database of photos of landmarks of the city. The photos can later be used in the relevant articles.

Wikipedians at the Chinese Temple (Photo: Biswarup Ganguly)

The first edition of the Wikipedia Kolkata Photowalk was held on 18 Dec. 2011 and was restricted to active Wikipedia contributors only. The second edition held on 3 march 2013 was however open to all and Facebook played an active role in promoting the event. 29 person turned up but sadly there was no women participant.

The aprox. 7 km long photowalk was not only aimed at areas not covered by Wikipedia but also aimed at capturing the diversified aspect of Kolkata, formally Calcutta. Over the last three centuries Kolkata has been a melting pot of several religion and culture. The Wikipedia Takes Kolakata II aimed at documented the diversified activity of the city.

Wikipedians at the Armenian Church, Kolkata (Photo: Biswarup Ganguly)

The 4 hours scheduled route (actually it took a little over 5 hours) covered First World War Barracks to hidden Chinese Temples and from Parsi Fire Temple to Portuguese Church. The route also covered the Armenian Church, which has the distinction of being the oldest Church in Kolkata, and also a couple of Synagogues.

With the walk complete the job was only half done. The participants soon started to upload there photos in Wikimedia category  “Wikipedia Takes Kolkata 2.” and several of the photos have already been used in different articles of Wikipedia.

Places Covered in Wikipedia Takes Kolkata II:

Tea Break (Photo: Biswarup Ganguly)

• Bow Barracks
• Kaplitola Kali Temple
• Parsi Fire Temple
• Parsi Dharmasala
• Buddhist Temple
• Agha Khan Palace
• Chinese Temples
• Chinese Breakfast
• Beth El Synagogue
• Magen David Synagogue
• Portuguese Church
• Armenian Church
• Carey Baptist Church
• Lebdev’s Theatre

Press Coverage:

The Telegraph and Hindustan Times gave extensive coverage of Wikipedia Takes Kolkata II event.

Press Coverage (Left: Hindustan Times, Right: The Telegraph)

Suruchi Gupta of Hindustan Times provided a pre-coverage of the Second Wikipedia Kolkata Photowalk and it was published on the very day of Wikipedia Takes Kolkata II.

Sreyoshi Dey and photographer Anindya Shankar Roy of The Telegraph participated in the Photowalk and report was published on 7 March 2013.

Special Thanks:

• Suruchi Gupta of Hindustan Times
• Sreyoshi Dey, Anindya Shankar Roy and Kaushik Ghosh of The Telegraph
• To all the participants who made the Wikipedia Takes Kolkata II a grand success

Sabz Burj (Green Dome)

~ Blue cloured green dome ~

Also see: My blog post on Delhi

Sabuz Burj (Green Dome), Delhi

Located on the grassy traffic island at the junction of Mathurs Road and Lodi Road stands a structure, neither grand nor towering. But the structure is striking enough to attracts the attention of passing Delhiwala, as well as tourist heading for the Humayun’s Tomb or the Nizamuddin’s Darga.

The structure is crowned with a blue dome and no wonder it is popularly know as the Neeli Chhatri.

Strangely it is officially know as the Sabz Burj (Sabz = Green, Burj = Dome) and the blue tiles on the dome are only a recent restoration effort. A few of the original multi coloured tiles can still be seen on the drum of the dome.

The octagonal tomb with with alternate wide and narrow sides follow the Baghadid Tomb architecture style. All the eight sides are marked with high recessed arches and it is crowned with a high drummed double domed.

The Sabz Burj is enclosed by a high fence and entry is restricted. The only option is to go round it.

Nothing is known about the date of construction of Sabz Burj and no one knows who is buried inside. Since the Sabz Burj  looks more Central Asian than Mughal historians consider it to be constructed in the early Mughal period (1530 – 40).

Strangely the elegant Sabz Burj has always been neglected and served as a police station during the British period. Later on it was taken over by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), who made the colour blunder during the process of restoration.

Reference:

• Delhi and its Neighborhood, published by ASI
• Humayun’s Tomb and Adjacent Monument. published by ASI and Good Earth Publication
• Sahil Ahuja’s Blog